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Me78569

4wd System Refresh np241DHD rebuild.

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Well the time has come to tear into my NP241DHD,  I just bought an overhaul kit, ( seals and bearings only).  I will be dropping the transfer case at some point next week / weekend.  

 

Issues are I have a random grinding when I hit bumps, either in the CAD system or in the transfer case.  Pulling the stick back to 4x4 makes the noise go away, but I not longer have a working vacuum actuator either so I don't know if it CAD is to blame as I really doubt it is able to move the collar.  

 

I also have no ability to go into N or 4l in the transfer case.  It literally hits a wall trying to push from 2wd into N, so I am GUESSING that the shifter collar inside is FUBAR, but I won't know until I tear it apart.  

 

I am gonna go to the junkyard on friday and get a replacement CAD actuator and new vacuum lines as I can't even look at them without them busting / cracking.

 

Gonna take a bunch of pictures as I go.  

Also as a side note, I finally decided to figure out exactly what axle is under my truck.  It is a 610428-4  so a 3500 1994 front axle. nice to know rather than guessing.

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HI guys, I had a similar problem with my np241 dhd. Maybe it's your struts and springs of the synchronizer.  Look in the dodge repair manual chapter 21-910 to 912. When I had drain the oil I had some pieces of metal...  it was the synchro springs,  I rebuid it but assamble the wrong way and when the truck it little bump makes a scrapping sound only in 2wd .   I had try in 4wd and nothing wrong.  So I disassambly the t-case and recheck the synchro. it was the cause. Make sure to assamble the struts and springs the correct way like in the manual!    

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20 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

If so... Then where is your write up on rebuilding transfer cases? 

Ugh... I've had it out and in pieces three times :doh: BUT if I can manage I'll be down in Springs with Nick :thumbup2: One of us should be able to snap some photos!

Have you ever pulled one apart Mike?

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I don't know if any of the guts are the same as a 241dld but I have all of them from the a spare I got when the case halves cracked on my old 99'. Your welcome to them if they will work. My 2000 has the dhd so I'm definately looking forward to a write up :thumbup2:

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like I intentionally kicked by 4wd selector to move it from N to 2wd when the wheels were all moving at different rates.... :shifty:

 

 

oh no my shifty smile thing is gone....ahhhh:ahhh: fix it fix it fix it 

Edited by Mopar1973Man

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stupid computers making me feel stupid.

 

 

so back to the truck, just ordered a replacement mopar center support bearing.  that should get rid of my highway vibration and also was likely the reason why the tailshaft of the transfercase was leaking slight.

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3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

No. Because I don't break things typically. Lets say I've removed transmissions and transfers cases typically for doing clutches.

Never broken anything in the Tcase or trans on mine yet.... BUT when something doesn't work exactly how I want it to I'll tear it apart. Doesn't bother me a bit!

1 hour ago, Me78569 said:

so back to the truck, just ordered a replacement mopar center support bearing.  that should get rid of my highway vibration and also was likely the reason why the tailshaft of the transfercase was leaking slight.

Might want to check the FSM and see if you need a bearing puller. I can't remember.

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A press is the best tool for changing the hanger bearing and Then spin balance it afterwards. Having worked at a shop with a driveline spin balancer it is amazing how little weight it takes to cause a vibration and by simply changing a u-joint or hanger bearing can totally throw off the balance of a driveline not to mention out of balance driveline is the main cause for u-joint and bearing failures to start with. Fix the cause along with the symptom and worn parts when dealing with drivelines.

Edited by Wild and Free
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59 minutes ago, Wild and Free said:

A press is the best tool for changing the hanger bearing and Then spin balance it afterwards. Having worked at a shop with a driveline spin balancer it is amazing how little weight it takes to cause a vibration and by simply changing a u-joint or hanger bearing can totally throw off the balance of a driveline not to mention out of balance driveline is the main cause for u-joint and bearing failures to start with. Fix the cause along with the symptom and worn parts when dealing with drivelines.

Funny you happen to say that... I'm in the process of locating a local driveline shop to rebuild my rear drive shaft, new carrier bearing, and spin balance my drive shaft. I look at this way it been under the truck smacked by all kinds of debris for 258k miles and 14 years. Why not invest the money and have the shaft rebuilt right. Mine start acting goofy on the last trip towing the RV. Vibration and odd bucking. Come to find the carrier bearing rubber is shot. 

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I have seen good driveline guys do a realignment / balance of a shaft and not even touch a weight just by hitting the tube with a bit of heat with a torch in specific spots to help pull one end a bit straighter at the weld area of the yoke to shaft area depending on what he sees in the balance and dial indicator checks.

Edited by Wild and Free
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