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Was wondering, we have list's and charts for just about everything for our trucks, but do we have a list of recommended/top/best fluids or favorites that everyone uses? It could be anything from oil, power steering, trans fluid to windshield washer fluid! I was just wondering what everyone liked to use so looked for a list, couldn't find one so thought maybe it'd be a good thing to have!

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I use what is cheap or specified by dodge/dana/cummins

 

Atf+4 needs to match a spec put out by Chrysler so all atf is pretty much the same so I go whatever is cheap.

 

Oil, I use good old Dino oil.  I know some like the synthetic stuff, but I don't see the point for a slow turning cummins.... dell typically as that is what costco has.

 

 

Same with Transfercase

 

Front and rear diff I use what is spec'd.

 

Coolant just the green stuff not mixed in its own bottle.  Again the cheap stuff, I end up replacing it once a year so I think flushing it enough removes all issues.

 

What else is there?

Edited by Me78569

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Power steering is power steering fluid not ATF. That didn't change till 2003 when ATF+4 was using in the power steering. Power steering system should be flushed every 30k miles. Typically close to 3-4 quarts to flush an entire steering and hydro boost system. Petroleum fluid suggested because this system is without a filter and regular fluid flushing should be done to prevent debris build up.

Transfer case can be either ATF+3 or ATF+4 (Onwers Manual). I've been running ATF+3 and still no issues. Transfer case should be changed every 30k miles. 

Engine Oil any petroleum oil that meets CI-4 or better at 15w-40 for most normal use. Synthetic is optional and not required. Normal interval is 7,500 miles for oil and filter change by the book. 

Coolant green (factory filled), yellow (universal) or orange (HOAT). Typically use yellow universal that way if there is a emergency add needed either orange or green can be used as well. There is no listed mileage or change interval be I highly suggest that before the period of service life of the coolant. My last change was at 70k on 100k the coolant was darkening.

Transmission fluid (auto) should be ATF+4 on 47RE transmission with service interval of 30k miles with band adjustments. 

Manual Transmission (NV4500 & NV5600) are Mopar Synthetics (two different fluids). No interval of change but highly suggest fluids be changed every 100k miles. On the NV5600 it's suggested to overfill by one quart because of bearing issues. 

Brake fluid is DOT3 and should be flushed out every 30k miles. 

Differentials front and rear. Petroleum 85w-90 GL5 Gear lubricant. Service interval is every 30k miles. Synthetics optional are not required. 

Windshield fluid any thing cheap. Out here in Idaho it don't take long to pump a gallon on the windshield. univerisal

Door hinges, hood hinges, and all latches should be lubricated with engine oil. 

Batteries should be topped off with distilled water and equalize charge place on the batteries. This can't be done on AGM or sealed batteries. 

NOTE: You will notice I did not list any brand names because it not about brand names its about the specification of the fluid or material. As long as the fluid or material meet and exceed the requirement then it may be used.

Edited by Mopar1973Man

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nice catch on the power steering, I couldn't remember what it was.

 

Don't forget that LSD diff needs a additive when you do fluids.  

Edited by Me78569

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Awesome! Im planning on re-base lining all my fluids so I know when they were done so this list will definitely help!

When you say petroleum based for the power steering flush, is that a specific kind of power steering fluid?

@Me78569 how do you tell if you have an lsd and what additive should be added?

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1 hour ago, notlimah said:

When you say petroleum based for the power steering flush, is that a specific kind of power steering fluid?

Any generic power steering fluids found in most all auto part stores is fine. You can download a FSM from the download area and I'm sure it will state some sort of Mopar Part number for fluid. Like myself 258k miles on my power steering pump, steering gear box and hydro booster and zero, leaks and zero issues. Just like a said just flush every 30k miles. As for the old claim that synthetic is required for cold weather operation is also a false. I'm using the cheapy WalMart Supertech power steering fluid... Give you a clue.

3 hours ago, Me78569 said:

nice catch on the power steering, I couldn't remember what it was.

1989 to 2002 is all power steering fluid.

2003 and up to current is ATF+4 for power steering fluid.

1 hour ago, notlimah said:

how do you tell if you have an lsd and what additive should be added?

It will be fairly obvious which you have once the cover is removed from the differential. Open differentials you'll clearly see the spider gears in the center of the carrier. Limited Slip you see a enclosed clutch pack.

Open Differential

open-differential.jpg

Limited slip

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS6ER4GD5m9AMntHMLVOG3

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Great info Mike!

I'm sure my power steering isn't happy with the bigger tires on there. I've been having some trouble with turning at idle/low speeds so I'm going to check my fluid level, might be low. If not that then do a full system flush. Hopefully that'll cure it.

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12 minutes ago, notlimah said:

Great info Mike!

I'm sure my power steering isn't happy with the bigger tires on there. I've been having some trouble with turning at idle/low speeds so I'm going to check my fluid level, might be low. If not that then do a full system flush. Hopefully that'll cure it.

Talk to Cowboy about the power steering pump mod he'll show you the article on how to modify the pump for that issue.

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Again... Like in my note from my previous post.

7 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

NOTE: You will notice I did not list any brand names because it not about brand names its about the specification of the fluid or material. As long as the fluid or material meet and exceed the requirement then it may be used.

So as for as for being the good stuff. :shrug: Mostly likely good for the dealer as they empty your pockets of hard earned cash. 

 

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Yea I get it for sure, I just tend to snob out when it comes to 'factory' fluids. Do the same thing on my dirt bike, damn KTM recommends motorex so I pony up and spend the extra, even though I know there's perfect substitutes for cheaper, I guess it's just more piece of mind!

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So it looks like I'm low on power steering fluid. Ran down to WalMart and got the supertech (they only had the leak blocker stuff) and was going top off the reservoir, but thought, what if the PO used ATF? Is just dumping the reservoir and refilling good enough? Or should I take off the return line and keep putting in fluid, turning the wheels and then call it good? 

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Sample the fluid and see if it's got a red tint. If so then flush the system out. As for going lock to lock I've found thatt will pump the gear box out but it may or may not take fluid from the pump. So you might have to start and run the engine if it doesn't pull fluid from the pump.

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In a nutshell what you do is unhook the return line from the pump. Cap the nipple on the pump that you pulled from. Route the return hose to a waste container. Now with the front axle jack up go lock to lock till it pumps the old fluid out. Then refill as needed. If it not willing to pump this method. Then do a lock to lock a few times to purge the gear box out the start the engine and pump it through this will take just a few second so be ready to shut off. Then refill and do the lock to lock some more hoping to move fresh fluid through the gear box. The steering gear box holds nearly a full quart of fluid so typically a flush will take 3-4 quarts to flush the system out. Then when you happen with what's coming out of the return hose is clear then hook back up the return line and refill and purge the air out. If the fluid is foamy (which it is typically) leave it sit for a about 30 minutes and then top off again. 

This is why I suggest petroleum power steering because a gallon of petroleum power steering fluid is like $20 bucks where synthetic is better $100 per gallon. So more people that which to synthetics tend to have more failure due to holding on to the fluid too long because of cost. I rather change often and keep following my current path of trouble free service!

Edited by Mopar1973Man

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5 hours ago, notlimah said:

Could you do the same steps as listed above except use a siphon to get out all the fluid from the reservoir, refill with fresh fluid, turn lock to lock, siphon and repeat?

Won't work. You only got about 8oz tops from the pump. There is about 32 ounces in the gear box. So since you working on dillution then you need to increase the change amount to nearly 2 gallons . Most people I catch do this don't get the debris out of system as you would flushing...

Kind of like doing a oil change by unscrewing the filter and dumping it out. Screw it back on and refilling a quart. It won't work. Then repeating...

Edited by Mopar1973Man

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On 2/21/2016 at 10:17 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

Open differentials you'll clearly see the spider gears in the center of the carrier. Limited Slip you see a enclosed clutch pack.

Open Differential

open-differential.jpg

Limited slip

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS6ER4GD5m9AMntHMLVOG3

I'm only pointing out that the second differential picture is not a LS unit but looks like a lunch box locker was installed.  A limited slip carrier will still look very similar to an open carrier, with the differences being that you can clearly see the "S" spring up against the spider gears, and the clutch packs on the outer insides of the carrier.

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