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So I bought a "built" transmission last spring and have pretty much had problems with it since I picked it up, when I got around to putting it in and took it for a test drive all I had was 2nd and 3rd and manual 1st. The trans builder thought it was a bad pressure sensor but come to find out he had built it for a 99 and I have a 2002 so it had the wrong vb wiring. I also noticed that this "built" transmissions band was so out of adjustment I could put my entire finger under the apply lever which was also still stock along with the old used accumulator piston that was just floating around in there with no spring behind it. Well I ended up having the builder come out and  re-adjust the band and change the vb wiring and haven't had a problem since.........until my move to Idaho.

when we moved to Idaho from Kansas I was pulling an 8x12 uhaul and was doing fine until I got to Idaho. I went to get on it when pulling out into traffic one day and the rpms went up the whole truck vibrated and I really didn't go that much faster. Now I have a 1-2 shuttle shift under light throttle, I back out of the drive way first thing in the morning just fine but put it in drive and acts like its in neutral then kicks into gear, has second gear starts sometimes and sometimes I have to manually put it in first at stop lights

I also talked to the trans builder and they said they would warranty it but I have to pull it out of my truck and send it to them to be serviced. I talked to Lavon at Firepunk and he said it sounds like it needs new transducer, governor solenoid, band adjustment and filter

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I would do what Firepunk recommends.  If your issues continue, then I would find a good builder near you and have them look at it.  

 

Sounds like you got a bad trans builder, who knows how much they screwed up.  

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Yeah that's what I plan on, I was just wanting some other opinions on what's going on. Oh and I'd stay clear of centerline diesel in Denver colorado

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Dynamic might have something to add, but I can't add anything to what firepunk suggested.  

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"Our stage 2 we usually say is good to about 750.. Depending on the driver obviously (some people are just idiots lol) but that runs usually about $3800 including a billet input, billet triple disk converter, custom valve body, machined drums to fit extra clutches, Kevlar bands, ect ect. That's out the door labor included so if it's just a drop off unit and we don't have to remove and replace it it would be cheaper"

 

thats their idea of a 750 horse transmission

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I just reread your original post, this time including the last paragraph about you talking to Lavon (which I had somehow glossed over the first time...). Everything that Lavon said is exactly what I was going to post...

A 1-2 shuttle shift is generally fixed with a good governor solenoid. I strongly recommend the Borg Warner HD, and also recommend replacing the solenoid and transducer as a pair.

It is possible that your filter is becoming restricted. This is not uncommon after a build due to normal break-in debris, plus anything that you may have gotten back from the cooler making its way into the filter. I have all of my customers run their new transmission for 1500 miles and then change the filter and readjust both bands...

Yeah, Idaho Falls is a hike from here, but I'm glad to help however I can...

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I plan on doing both the transducer and solenoid at the same time and I'm also going to throw a billet second gear strut and anchor in there at the same time (not sure why the builder didn't do this)  and maybe a second gear apply lever. I'm going to take it to adrenaline performance down in Shelley,ID since they quoted me about $300 to put my parts in, adjust the bands, filter and fluid

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You'll have to pull the transmission to change the intermediate band lever, but the rest of what you listed off is a good plan.

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Well it sounds like my forward clutches are burnt up from what all the local shops are saying 

Haven't even put 5k miles on this thing and it toast wtf

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Sucks you had to go through that, but a lot of trans shops are like this.  

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Sorry it has taken so long to respond here. I've had a HUGE project in the shop that is finally coming to an end, so I can come out of the "cave", so-to-speak...

It really depends upon how built up you want it, and how complete of a package you're looking for.

Our Stage 2 build starts at $1699 for the transmission itself. It is a complete build, with an extra disc in the direct clutch (5 disc stack), and also an extra disc in the OD brake clutch (6 disc stack). It also comes with a billet accumulator piston, Sonnax intermediate servo cover, Superior reinforced band strut, Sonnax billet low/reverse piston, and the HD/Towing valve body, calibrated to your preferences, and includes all electronics. The Stage 2 retains the OEM input shaft, and the valve body is calibrated accordingly. If you want a bundled combo package with the Stage 2 transmission, a torque converter, and deep pan, we do the same build with either a Cascade or DPC triple disc converter and Mag-Hytek double deep pan for $3399.

The Stage 3 build starts with everything in the Stage 2 build, and then adds a billet input shaft (TCS), full billet servo set with billet band anchor (TCS), and extra disc in the forward clutch (5 disc stack), and billet OD piston retainer. Pressures are turned up a bit more in the valve body, and shift calibrations a bit firmer. The Stage 3 transmission itself runs $2899, and the bundled combo comes with the double deep pan, a Goerend billet flexplate, and your choice of Cascade, Goerend or DPC billet triple disc torque converter for $4499.

These are our two most popular packages, by far. You'er also welcome to give me a call with questions or specifics.

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Changed the fluid, filter and sensors in the trans today and it made it worse. Here's some pictures of chunks on the filter and sparkly atf and I can fit my index finger under the apply lever again. It also slips even worse in first gear and the trans builder won't answer me back anymore

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Ugly.  Id say its rebuild. But, im no expert.

Edited by CSM
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You know the state I'm in says that I have to have insurance that covers bad workmanship. It also covers anything that I don't make right with a warrantee, in other words the insurance or the bond (which is additional type of insurance cost) will pay for another contractor to come in and do it right.

 

Now with all the crap from the gov't. (horrible stupid classes and expenses) I put up with why in the H___  can't they do the same with trans shops?? After all a transmission going out at a critical moment in traffic can be a life threatening situation... much more than some ones cabinet getting wet from a bad roofer.

 

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8 hours ago, JAG1 said:

You know the state I'm in says that I have to have insurance that covers bad workmanship. It also covers anything that I don't make right with a warrantee, in other words the insurance or the bond (which is additional type of insurance cost) will pay for another contractor to come in and do it right.

 

Now with all the crap from the gov't. (horrible stupid classes and expenses) I put up with why in the H___  can't they do the same with trans shops?? After all a transmission going out at a critical moment in traffic can be a life threatening situation... much more than some ones cabinet getting wet from a bad roofer.

 

 

This is very true. I really wish I could go after this guy for knowingly building a bad transmission and then rigging it to make it work and now he won't answer me at all so now I'm out $4000 and a transmission.....

He also couldn't bother to tell me he put an older style valvebody on there so when I went to buy a transmission filter I bought one for a 2002, well those are too thick and won't let the pan on. I had to buy one from a 95

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The valve body is not thicker, the pan is shallower on the early ones. Why he would have changed to an early shallow pan is beyond me... It makes me wonder just exactly what he built you!

 

Something in there is definitely coming apart and making metal, and lots of it (duh...!). It sounds like it's slipping in several gears, and if you can put your finger between the servo pin and band lever after recently adjusting the band, your band (and likely your direct drum) is toast.

 

At this point, it is really going to need to come apart, including the valve body, to find where the metal is coming from, and why it failed.

 

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Damnit I can't afford this right now...

Well whatever he did he's not willing to fess up and say he screwed up and used wrong parts. Id be more than happy if he just refunded me my money and I give him his transmission back

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I wonder.... if the failure happened in Idaho, could you take him to small claims court in that state, making him have to travel there. An attorney could get you a better return in a court if you can prove fraud because in a fraudulent case you are eligible to receive additional settlement.

 

I don't think I'd let this guy off the hook seeing the damage.

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I paid for it through PayPal when I was in Kansas and it came to me all messed up but all this happened either when I was towing a uhaul box trailer to Idaho and here in Idaho 

They didn't give me any paperwork with the transmission so I have no clue what parts are in it, what the warrante details are or anything about it

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