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Just bought a 95 12v 5 speed with 278k miles, I've done general maint. to it, cut the factory exhaust off so could breath, put a K&N air filter on. I have noticed on this truck that it spins over more before it will crank than my 02 24v does. I would like a little info on that, and also what I can do safely to give it a little more power, since it has high mileage. Thanks for any info..

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You mean it cranks longer than your 24v? Try pushing on the pedal a little to give it some fuel and let off once it starts. The idle is too low so it is a little low on fuel flow to start it. Idling up may or may not fix it but giving it just a bit of fuel starts it right up in half a crank. Heres showing without and then with pushing down on pedal just a bit.

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgmMNwQhBpA

---------- Post added 04-06-2010 at 09:18 AM ---------- Previous post was 04-05-2010 at 10:12 PM ----------

You can do a number of things to increase power, however, if it has the stock clutch, it will not hold any of it. You can adjust the starwheel to get some more fuel before boost builds up so it will take off a little faster, but will also smoke. The more you turn the starwheel, the more it will smoke, but the more it will build boost faster. You can push the fuel plate forward and see if the clutch slips. You can get a BHAF to improve air flow. You can cut the muffler off.. High mileage isn't really a factor, there are people running chips with close to a million miles with no problems. The only thing turning it up does is make it wear out a little faster, but with a cummins, that just means it might need rebuilding at 500k instead of later :lol: The things I mentioned will get you just a little bit more power, nothing major, but will be noticeable. If you get carried away, you will find yourself in need of a better clutch since it will slip any time you floor it. Let me know exactly what kind of power you are wanting. Do you have an EGT gauge?

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I have already cut the exhaust off, i'm going to put a 4" tb out back on it, I put an K&N air filter on it also, but thats it so far. Cutting the exhaust off help alot, that thing was stopped up bad. All I want is good pulling power, I work the S$#t out of my trucks, I can't have something my helpers will dog out. I have an 02 24v I put 50 hp injectors and a AD 100 fuel pump and a K&N air filter on and thats plenty of power for me.

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In that case, just crank the starwheel a bit to get the boost to roll on faster, and push the plate forward and see how you like it. I'm really thinking the clutch won't hold. I pushed my plate all the way forward and I couldn't even get 3/4 throttle before the clutch would let go. You will just have to see if it slips when you do it :lol:Be sure to get an EGT gauge if you don't have one already..BTW, was the pedal thing your starting issue?

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K&N filters have been known to let a lot of dust get through. They are not recommended for our trucks. Something you can do for more power without getting to carried away is set your timing at 16*, grind your fuel plate to a #100, and set your starwheel to where you get just a slight amount of smoke on take off. That will put you in the vicinity of 300 or so rear wheel horse power. You do have gauges on the truck, don't you?

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Dont have any gauges yet, i'm working on two trucks right now, and my 02 is a little more important to me, mainly trying to get ideas about or for the 95, before I really get started on it. Were can you go to find out how to set the timing, and plate adjustment because I don't have a clue. I have learned alot on this site about a 02 24v, but nothing on a 95 12v. Thanks to every body for the info, givin and any more received.

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The timing is more or less something you should watch someone who has done it do, very easy to screw up. You have to measure plungers on the lift pump and find top dead center and loosen the timing gear on the front of th IP and all kinds of crap. The fuel plate is something everyone does but can be a little involved. Maybe you know where the starwheel on the p7100 is? Under that is the fuel plate, so there are 4 bolts and one of them is a breakoff bolt that you have to get "creative" with to get out. Then just replace it with a bolt like all the rest. You have to disconnect the hose going to the wastegate and I think another little hose and then that whole top comes off. The plate just has 2 flathead screws with locknut washes on them, so don't let them fall down into the pump. If you just want to try sliding it forward, just loosen the screws and push the plate towards the radiator. Closer to the radiator it is, more fuel it will give. I will try and get some pics for you sometime maybe saturday I will tear into it real quick. If you happen to be adventurous, make sure you don't strip those 4 screws, it is all aluminum so it will strip out very easily, just use some locktite and snug them up.

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Alright, forgot I took these pics. The 2 hoses I marked with red lines have to come off and the 4 screws under the red circles come out. The green arrow shows the fuel shutoff solenoid being push out of the way, it is under the two red screws that are next to the green arrow. Then you pull the whole thing straight up and off. Now you will see the fuel plate, same thing, take out red screws or loosen them and push fuel plate forward as you can see how it has slots under the screws to slide back and forth (towards radiator). You can see what the fuel plate looks like in the 3rd pic. If yours is stock, it will have a lot more metal there, you grind them down so the fuel arm can move over farther and give you more fuel. If you turn the AFC over (big thing we took off), you will see the low boost fuel control arm (what the starwheel adjusts). The starwheel spring and all that is behind the bar with a notch in it, not the full bar that the arm I took out slides on. I took that arm out so I would have full fuel whenever I want, the starwheel does nothing, I wouldn't advise this :lol:That's the basics of it.

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I see a scary trend taking place again..................... Do your research people. You need to throw the K&N filters in the Garbage asap. As MnTom stated they are not a quality filter as the advertising may make you think. I have Oil analysis results on my own rig before during and after the K&N filter I tried and it was shocking to say the least as to the amount of silica I had during the K&N filter days.

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Figured I would make this too. The fuel arm rides along the fuel plate according to RPM. This means you can floor it but if you are only idling, it will only get it as much fuel as the plate allows at idle speed. Therefore, a #100 plate from idle on up will gradually give it more fuel until it is at max fuel. So even with my starwheel out, if I try and lug it and get smoke, I can't get as much smoke as I could with a completely flat plate, because lugging speed is down where it tapers the fuel down, and when it does get into full fuel, I have boost built, so no smoke..

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I see a scary trend taking place again..................... Do your research people. You need to throw the K&N filters in the Garbage asap. As MnTom stated they are not a quality filter as the advertising may make you think. I have Oil analysis results on my own rig before during and after the K&N filter I tried and it was shocking to say the least as to the amount of silica I had during the K&N filter days.

If the K&N is no good, what is a good cold air kit??

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What about on my 24v??

i have a BHAF on my 99 24valve...turbo intake is way cleaner than it was with those crappy drop-ins.....in my box, one corner always pulled from edge allowing dirty air right by!

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