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Longer cranking...

notlimah
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notlimah

notlimah

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Alright guys so I pulled the fuse for the FASS and cranked the truck over. Pretty much the same results. Truck cranked for 5-8ish seconds and then started. I didn't want to let the truck keep running without the FASS on so I shut it off and plugged back in the fuse and the truck fired over pretty quick after a small stumble.

 

so...

 

This basically means I'm still chasing a fuel leak or an air bubble in my system correct? I'm thinking of calling up Eric and ordering a new 45* inlet pushlock, new JIC adapter to the VP and a new needle valve. I've been getting some moisture buildup under the intake side of the VP that I can't get rid of by tightening down and I believe there was some moisture on my needle valve leading up to my FP gauge so I'm going to replace all that along with the grommets on the fuel T and see if that fixes the issue.

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notlimah

notlimah

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Thanks man!

 

It's frustrating for sure, but it's definitely not the worst thing that could be happening. At least the truck still starts and runs, I just have to watch out for those pesky hills!

 

I did think of you though trying to get these g dang JIC fittings at the VP snugged up! I swear if I put them any tighter they're going to snap off, and before I loosened them, they worked fine! -_- ughhh! haha

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notlimah

notlimah

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So just talked with Eric and he seems to think there's nothing really wrong. He said that even when parked on a hill with a completely sealed fuel system that gravity could still pull some fuel back. Either way he said that 5-8sec before starting isn't a huge concern and that I shouldn't worry about it. So just for my piece of mind I think I'll replace the T fitting grommets, replace the return banjo on the VP and replace the fittings for supply side of the VP. Eventually I'll replace the crossover tube O-rings, but that's just something I don't want to mess with right now. I'd like to wait until I can get some new injectors before replacing those.

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leathermaneod

leathermaneod

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That's good to hear! Interestingly enough, my truck will sometimes start just a little harder after the grid heaters run. I've noticed that if it's just barely cold enough for them to run, it will crank just a touch longer than if I start it in mpg mode so they don't run. Must be that it turns ever so slightly slower after that major current draw. My point is that it seems there are a lot of little things that factor in. I completely understand your wanting it to start quick though, I am the same way :-)

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notlimah

notlimah

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The other issue is I have another truck to compare it too! haha

 

My 99 will start almost instantly, where as I'm having these issues with my 02. You'd think they'd be more similar but apparently not.

 

I still think that my system isn't getting a 100% sealed because I've read of plenty of people having the same issues as me and replacing the grommets at the T and such and it's fixed their issues so we'll see how things go once it's all replaced.

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notlimah

notlimah

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Agreed. That's why I'm still going to replace a couple things up in the engine bay. Just not going to tackle the crossover tube O-rings until injectors. That is to say that after all the things I do, I still have the same issue.

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dripley

dripley

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I would say try the grommets first and see if that fixes it. Or try something else first and see if that fixes it. Then you would know what the problem was. FWIW my needle valve has some excess fuel on the line to the gauge and causes no problems. If you do all of what you want at once there will still be a mystery and it will drive you crazy.

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notlimah

notlimah

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Yea that's a good point Dripley but I have to factor in time to my 'work on the truck days.' When I attempt to fix this fuel leak I'll also have to get the new steering put on in the same day. With the youngster around, I don't get as much time to wrench. 

 

For or sure a new input connectors are the VP will go in just because mine is blocking the power steering cap right now so I have the 45* bend from Vulcan coming that will solve that issue.

 

But I don't think that's causing this issue since that only showed up once I started fooling with it and caused it to seep and drop my psi 1-2. 

 

The T fittings are the only logical thing that's causing my issue so I'll replace those and hope it fixes it.

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notlimah

notlimah

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I have a quick follow up observation I've made.

 

I haven't had the chance to get the grommets replaced at the T yet, so I've been parking nose down just to avoid having these longer starts unnecessarily. Well when parked nose uphill, my lift pump always would do a quick 1sec prime when turning the key on and I'd typically see a 2-4psi bump on my gauge. Parked nose down, the lift pump doesn't seem to do the same 1sec bump. It even happened after restarting the truck after I drove to work and it being parked on level ground. No 1sec bump at key on, no fuel pressure gauge psi bump, but still fires up instantly, then fuel pressure builds shortly after the engine's running.

 

Anyone else ever notice this?

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BBHD

BBHD

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6 hours ago, notlimah said:

I have a quick follow up observation I've made.

 

I haven't had the chance to get the grommets replaced at the T yet, so I've been parking nose down just to avoid having these longer starts unnecessarily. Well when parked nose uphill, my lift pump always would do a quick 1sec prime when turning the key on and I'd typically see a 2-4psi bump on my gauge. Parked nose down, the lift pump doesn't seem to do the same 1sec bump. It even happened after restarting the truck after I drove to work and it being parked on level ground. No 1sec bump at key on, no fuel pressure gauge psi bump, but still fires up instantly, then fuel pressure builds shortly after the engine's running.

 

Anyone else ever notice this?

My FASS150 always gives me the little 1 sec bump in pressure at key on. I've been watching it since you've been talking about it. uphill, downhill or on a severe side slope yesterday up in the mountains 

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dripley

dripley

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The ECM controls that little bump. Cant answer as to why it would doing it facing uphill and not down hill. I hear mine every time I turn the key no matter what attitude my truck is in. I usually see about 5 or 6 psi, but if you open the needle valve you will see more. It is relative to how restricted the flow to the gauge is.

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notlimah

notlimah

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Thanks guy, I'll crack my needle valve open a hair more. Hoping to get new plumbing installed this weekend and hopefully (fingers crossed!!) get rid of this issue.

 

I finally got around to re-installing the turbo in my 99 and after sitting for almost 2 months the truck fired up instantly! Gonna be hard to sell her! :cry:

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BIG-BLACK-DODGE

BIG-BLACK-DODGE

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Following this... I have the same issue as you.

but i have a basically stock Airtex intank lift pump ( new).

I get a slight diesel fuel smell in the cab but every thing seems dry... 

You did tighten injector lines eh? Not sure if i read that u did that or not.

I was thinking it's my injector o-rings.

if so fuel would be in the oil correct? 

I took an oil sample but haven't sent it away yet. 

 

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dripley

dripley

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7 hours ago, notlimah said:

Thanks guy, I'll crack my needle valve open a hair more. Hoping to get new plumbing installed this weekend and hopefully (fingers crossed!!) get rid of this issue.

 

I finally got around to re-installing the turbo in my 99 and after sitting for almost 2 months the truck fired up instantly! Gonna be hard to sell her! :cry:

you dont have to adjust anything. Yours is fine where it is. What you get pressure wise on that bump is insignificant.  

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JAG1

JAG1

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BIG BLACK DODGE, what kind of fuel pressures do you see with the new intank lift pump?

 

The town talk is it needs to come out and get a different pump. Plus some other things to make it right.:think:

Edited by JAG1
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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8 hours ago, BIG-BLACK-DODGE said:

Following this... I have the same issue as you.

but i have a basically stock Airtex intank lift pump ( new).

I get a slight diesel fuel smell in the cab but every thing seems dry... 

You did tighten injector lines eh? Not sure if i read that u did that or not.

I was thinking it's my injector o-rings.

if so fuel would be in the oil correct? 

I took an oil sample but haven't sent it away yet. 

 

 

Injector o-rings would push fuel into the oil.

Crossover tube o-rings would leak fuel onto the manifold.

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