Jump to content
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com

    We can see that your guest and been lurking about. When you register on the Mopar1973Man.Com site you'll be able to interact with all the other members. This is the most friendliest Cummins forum you'll ever join. Take the time right now and  REGISTER  on the Mopar1973Man.Com this will open up many more options and functions on the website. Everyone is very friendly and helpful just ask questions and everyone will help you out the best they can. 

Sign in to follow this  
GSX455

VP44 dead with 80 k miles?

Recommended Posts

So, my truck has been driving okay, then out of nowhere, it starts to surge. buck and have no power.  I was about 6 miles from home, so I limp it home.  it idles okay, but any acceleration and it surges. sputters, etc.   Put it on the code reader, and the first one was P0216, VP44 timing, the next code, P0230, and then the companion code P1693.  along with P0521, P0460, P1693.  Dead VP44?! (Blue Chip) and I've only put abut 80k with a new Raptor lift pump.  My fuel gauge was not working, and the float level error code with almost no fuel pressure ~10 psi.

 

 

 

Edited by GSX455
Wrong lift pump

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Filters clean? air and fuel. Low fuel pressure does not help either. What fass system do you have? Hate to condemn  a VP just on those codes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, I hooked up my DMM to the alternator diodes but how do you check for AC noise?   :think:

I did clear the codes, and I replaced the filter about 3 months, 3 000 miles ago. 

The P0216 code went away , but the P0230 stayed, and the sputtering came back..  I can live with a transfer pump change. Raptor 150, with about 50,000 miles on it.  Does this seem a reasonable liefetime for an Airdog?  Is there a better option?

 

Thanks for the help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

VP was designed for the old non ULSD with higher lubricity. The vp stays cooler with fuel pressures over 14 all the time and adding 2 stroke oil to every tank. Do not drive it if F/P is not over 14.:thumb1:

 

How come you guys always leave it up to me to tell this to these poor guys with VP woes?:kick:

 

Ought to make it a prerequisite that you can't join this club unless you have good fuel pressure, a half inch line kit, fuel pressure gauge and 2 stroke bottles laying all over the yard:thumbup2:

Edited by JAG1
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks boss..... These trucks will go forever with just a few mods... another one is the timbo APPS that should go with a new VP

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, GSX455 said:

So, I hooked up my DMM to the alternator diodes but how do you check for AC noise?   :think:

I did clear the codes, and I replaced the filter about 3 months, 3 000 miles ago. 

The P0216 code went away , but the P0230 stayed, and the sputtering came back..  I can live with a transfer pump change. Raptor 150, with about 50,000 miles on it.  Does this seem a reasonable liefetime for an Airdog?  Is there a better option?

 

Thanks for the help.

In your original post you mentioned a FASS system and here a AD. Which do you have on the truck now? The pressure can be raised on both style pumps if needed. As JAG said the VP loves good fuel pressure and some extra lube.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Watch out for Dripley he puts two stroke oil in his 15 nail guns and his 21 rifles. :lol3:

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 like when the question was asked , 'what are they doing with all the lubricity they stole from our fuel?...... someone said years ago they use it to check your prostate.

Edited by JAG1
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I remember about the ULSD, which is why I run the PS Kleen Diesel additive which has lubricant, which was a little cheaper than 2 stroke oil per tank, but if the experts say 2 stroke is the way, to go, I'll switch over.  Yep, got the Vulcan big line kit with the AirDog Raptor 150.   Back to the P0320; The Raptor 150 did not cycle after I bumped the starter.  I got an open circuit when the pump was installed on the vehicle, grounded to the block, and checked either lead.  I took off the Raptor 150, and checked the leads and it failed a continuity check.  I just hope the VP44 wasn't too damaged.  it sputtered the last 2 miles to the house.  

 

so, the  FASS DDRP is a good choice? the titanium series looked nice, until I saw the price tag. :broke:

 

Again, thanks for all the helpful comments, this site rocks, don't know what I would do without the help I get here.  

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, GSX455 said:

I run the PS Kleen Diesel additive which has lubricant

 

Not much lubricant. PS is only +61 point gain vs 2 cycle +162 point gain.

 

13 minutes ago, GSX455 said:

Back to the P0320; The Raptor 150 did not cycle after I bumped the starter.

 

 

I think you mean P0230 code right? If so then its an electrical issue from the ECM to the fuel pump relay trigger. 

 

15 minutes ago, GSX455 said:

I took off the Raptor 150, and checked the leads and it failed a continuity check.

 

So the pump has internal issues I'm going to bet that diesel fuel leaked into the motor wiping out the brushes. Raptor pumps are known for this problem. 

 

16 minutes ago, GSX455 said:

FASS DDRP is a good choice?

 

I personally don't like any DDRP styled pump. This implies that you are going to be using stock location and stock plumbing. Now if you the relocation kit with it then you are OK... Of course this just added more to the price tag.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I do it an inexpensive way by having the AD 100 relocated on the frame, 1/2'' lines and ball shut off valves either side of the pump and big filter. Then I carry an extra factory pump in the tool box if I need it to get home. The ball valves allow me to change the pump or the filter without loosing prime or draining fuel all over me changing things out.

 

I hope you get it fixed real good and I know the 2stroke is better for it.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the suggestions,:thumb1:  New DDRP installed, FP gauge with isolator installed, I used a 10 weight oil, no antifreeze, but it seems to be working, 18 psi, about where I've heard recommended.  I kept my Vulcan big line kit from the lift pump to the filter, but went with banjo fittings from the filter to the VP to tie in the FP gauge.  

And a bottle of 2 stroke oil is in there.  I have the marine grade 2 stroke oil, which has corrosion inhibitors, and is synthetic.    

 

 

 

   

FullSizeRender.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How is your pressure drop at WOT. Thats the other important number. You are trying for 14# or higher. As far as the 2 stroke, nothing fancy needed there. Ash less is the key. Many of us run the Super Tech TCW-3 from Wal mart. It fits the bill just fine.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, Super Tech  TCW-3, ash less,   15 psi @ WOT.   At least my VP44 survived the lift pump failing a few miles from the house.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, dripley said:

How is your pressure drop at WOT. Thats the other important number. You are trying for 14# or higher. As far as the 2 stroke, nothing fancy needed there. Ash less is the key. Many of us run the Super Tech TCW-3 from Wal mart. It fits the bill just fine.

So, is their any disadvantages of using synthetic 2 stroke such as the Pennzoil synthetic outboard oil? or is it more of a cost issue?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have heard that the synthetic is not as good as the dino. I would have to defer to someone that knows better than me for the why. As for me the dino is cheaper and easy to get and for the most part I am a dino guy anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I tend to avoid synthetic 2 cycle oil. First off there is no gain to using a more expensive synthetic over petroleum oils. Not to mention synthetic oils do not have PPD (pour point depressants) because of the synthetic oils don't have paraffin waxes. PPD's are good for winter time use small amount of change in pour points for your fuel where synthetics will not.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, I've always leaned toward the petroleum based products too, but reason for asking is that I have been running the penz. Synthetic 2 stroke lately  since that's whatI I run in the outboard I just stock up on that particular brand, and it seems to have made the vp more quiet than before when using the super tech. I just was wondering the long term effects

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I too think the super tech from Walmart is not as good.

 

My other truck is a flatbed and the fuel fill is in the side rail making it tough to pour in the 2 stroke, so I have to use a cardboard paper towel tube extended in there. When I poured the Super Tech one day I noticed how much faster it soaked thru the cardboard getting my hands/ fingers oiled.  I usually go for Pennzoil brand or West marine stuff.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  



×
×
  • Create New...