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dorkweed

80,000 Miles......No Full Oil Change

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That's what I'm approaching now!!!:cookoo::stuned: I've officially got about 130 miles to go before a "full" 80,000 miles without a complete oil change, but I thought I be pro-active and tell y'all prior!!!!!:cool:I plan on taking an oil sample and sending it to Blackstone for analysis at the next scheduled TP change out. That'll be just over the 80k mark, but close enough. I'll post the results when I get them. Those "butt wipe" filters work well!!!:smart:

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Good to hear it... I'm going to be changing another TP roll myself really soon every 2,500 miles and changing the oil every 10K miles... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=363 They got to be filtering out the trash...:thumbup2: Are you still running WalMart SuperTech Engine Oil too?

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That's what I'm approaching now!!!:cookoo::stuned: I've officially got about 130 miles to go before a "full" 80,000 miles without a complete oil change, but I thought I be pro-active and tell y'all prior!!!!!:cool: I plan on taking an oil sample and sending it to Blackstone for analysis at the next scheduled TP change out. That'll be just over the 80k mark, but close enough. I'll post the results when I get them. Those "butt wipe" filters work well!!!:smart:

Where did you get the filter? What is the name of the compy that makes it? How often do you change it? === Thanks

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This is mine...

http://www.wefilterit.com/

I change mine every 5K miles with another roll of TP (Kirkland brand or Scott's brand) Then change oil evry 10K miles...

Thanks for the info Where did you get your at?

---------- Post added at 12:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 AM ----------

This is mine...

http://www.wefilterit.com/

I change mine every 5K miles with another roll of TP (Kirkland brand or Scott's brand) Then change oil evry 10K miles...

Thanks I found it. I had over looked it.

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AABEAR, I've got a MotorGuard TP bypass. They're real hard to come by now since the maker of the "housing" doesn't want it to be marketed as an oil bypass filter. The MotorGuard housing was originally designed to filter compressed air with TP. A man named Ralph Wood converted the fittings, etc. to filter oil. If you're interested in these now, I'd say to just follow the link the Mike gave you. The Frantz is the same as the MotorGuard...........it just looks different. In fact; prior to MotorGuard, Ralph Wood sold Frantz bypass oil filters.

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well I' done some digging around for Ralph Wood and MotorGuard... What I found is he left the air in about 2008 roughly but was a very knowledgeable guy when it came to oil filters and filtration. But the reason I found that he quite making was that company that was building the filter didn't want him modifing the filter to be used in oil applications any longer so basically that shut him down. Then he was having health issues on top of that too... But yes the MotorGuard is just as good as Frantz design is basically the same too..

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I was curious about the motorguard so I did a quick look for ol' Ralph... Sometimes you got to add the e xtra 2 more cents to the pile and little more effort to learn something new... :smart:

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Good to hear it... I'm going to be changing another TP roll myself really soon every 2,500 miles and changing the oil every 10K miles... They got to be filtering out the trash...:thumbup2: Are you still running WalMart SuperTech Engine Oil too?

Just curious why you change your oil at 10K miles since dorkweed is proving that we don't have to with a bypass filter?

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I'm NOT doing oil analysis so there is no way for me to double check the condition of the oil (Very Important) But the thing I really think is quite important about this is... That this proves that Petroleum base engine oil are just as good as Synthetics. They can go just as far. Being that Dorkweek is using cheap SuperTech Unverisal Diesel Engine Oil (PennzOil) and made nearly 100K miles with just a bypass filter throws new light on the whole Synthetic Oil race. It more of question now is it worth pay big money on a Synthetic oil when a standard old Petroluem based oil will do just as good? :shrug::spend:

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Ralph Wood always said that oil doesn't "wear out", it only gets dirty/contaminated. That is unless the oil gets hot and "cooks". If you filter finely enough, you can keep your oil analytically clean. I usually take an oil sample once per year, which is about 20,000+ miles. It comes back fine according to Blackstone.

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That raises a question then... Does the testing with Blackstone capable of detecting if the oil has been cooked or not? :shrug:

Hey, They do a viscosity test so I would think so. Plus they check for the additive in the oil and if that gets too low it the oil is "worn out"!:thumbup2: Later, Winslow

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Well I can say that I am less sold on UOA being the most accurate way to extend oil life. I have been running amsoil, with a bypass, for the last 45K miles. The current oil has 22K miles on it, and was cleared for another 7K miles of use. I have done UOA's every 7000-7500 miles for the last 45K miles. Well I pulled the cam last week for the install, and the cam and lifters showed significant wear, much more than the 56K miles on them should have showed. The crank was also significantly scarred at the seal and required a speedy sleeve. All my UOA's have been okay, and told me to to continue use, even when I changed the oil 22K miles ago... I will still run the oil I am running, but its not going past 15K miles anymore.

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Well I can say that I am less sold on UOA being the most accurate way to extend oil life. I have been running amsoil, with a bypass, for the last 45K miles. The current oil has 22K miles on it, and was cleared for another 7K miles of use. I have done UOA's every 7000-7500 miles for the last 45K miles. Well I pulled the cam last week for the install, and the cam and lifters showed significant wear, much more than the 56K miles on them should have showed. The crank was also significantly scarred at the seal and required a speedy sleeve. All my UOA's have been okay, and told me to to continue use, even when I changed the oil 22K miles ago... I will still run the oil I am running, but its not going past 15K miles anymore.

Would you mind defining "significant wear"?? In other words, significant wear when compared to or based on what??? Most of us haven't had these Cummins apart before. Thanks.:thumbup2:

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While I haven't had one apart before either I was shown my cam/tappets vs a cam/tappets with over 100K miles on them. Mine looked older and more worn. Not sure the best way to describe it, but there was minor pitting, ridges, and such on my parts that wasn't there on the other set. Needless to say I was shocked, as I run 2um filtration and good oil, and have done analysis.

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I know this is an old thread; almost a year old...But it seems to have just "stopped" once Apache posted his findings... What ever happened?

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I know this is an old thread; almost a year old... But it seems to have just "stopped" once Apache posted his findings... What ever happened?

I wound up changing my oil out at almost 82,000 miles on it. I had the truck in the shop for an oil leak. They had to tear apart the front of the engine and then some to replace a seal. Not the front cover seal, but a seal behind that. It's between the block and a spacer like thing the CP3 mounts to and which give clearance for the front cover over the crank, cam gears etc. I figured with the engine apart..........It might be wise to go with fresh oil.:smart:

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Does this work in conjunction with the OE-located oil filter? Or is it a replacement of?

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Works with... The stock OE filter is a full flow filter and a Motorguard / Frantz is a bypass filter that only filters a small percentage of the oil flow.

IIRC, the MotorGuard and the Frantz divert off about 5% of oil pump flow for the bypass filter. Still even with that small amount of oil, the flow rate threw the TP bypass filter averages about 1 quart per minute of engine running at normal operating temps. The OEM full flow filter flows way more than that............it has to in order to lubricate and cool the engine!!

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Another option you can try is a Fleetguard Venturi type oil filter LF9028 or Baldwin 7313. These filters are a full flow lube filter and bypass filter all in one. A friend and I are still working on fitting a Fleetguard CH41102 Centriguard Centrifugal bypass oil filter to our trucks. I think this is the best possible option.

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