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Quadzilla V2 Custom Tunes


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Not at this point. We are working on something that will enable measureing those as well but we don't have them in production yet. It will be some time.  -thanks again, 

yep, most complain coming to V2 tuning because they are used to the butt dyno telling them "WOW I just touch the throttle and it jumps out of it's own skin"       what people don't consider

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6 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

0 = Stock ECM

1 = Valet Mode

2 = Zero to 100% CANBus fuel

3 = Full CANBus

 

4 through 11...

 

Depending on the tune set up this just divides the wiretap up. So if the default tune is set with 15 levels then that means each level 4 and up is 10% of the wiretap. Like I'm running 8 levels. So each level in my tune is just 25% of wiretap each step.

 

 

What I'm looking for is the rest of the settings so I can start with a tune that works well and see if I can squeeze a little more economy out of it. All of this stuff:

Power Levels:

 

Timing

Fuel Load Timing:

Low PSI Timing Reduct:

Timing Reduct Scaling:

Light Throttle Timing Adv:

Light Throttle Timing Load Limit:

 

Timing vs rpm

1500:

2000:

2500:

3000:

Timing Max:
 

Wiretap

Pump Stretch:

TPS Pump max:

TPS Pump Min

Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage:

Pump Low Boost Scale PSI

 

Boost Scaling:

 

RPM Limit:

 

Power Reduction:

 

0 PSI %:

1 PSI %:

2 PSI %:

3 PSI %:

4 PSI %:

5 PSI %:

6 PSI %:

7 PSI %:

8 PSI %:

9 PSI %:

10 PSI %:

11 PSI %:

12 PSI %:

13 PSI %:

14 PSI %:

15 PSI %:

16 PSI %:

18 PSI %:

20 PSI %:

22 PSI %:

24 PSI %:

26 PSI %:

28 PSI %:

30 PSI %:

 

But for the default tune. Like if you click on custom tuning and you have your own tube loaded you can see all the settings, but if you look at default it doesn't have an edit button. 

1 minute ago, Quadzilla Power said:

I honestly don't know yours specifically because you have the special build. It most likely copies the regular defaults, but I can't be 100% sure. 

The defaults for the V2 tuning can be found in our custom tuning guide here: 

http://quadzillapower.com/adrenaline-custom-tuning-guide/#V2Tuning

 

Perfect. I missed that somehow. Thanks

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Good Morning fellas and I must say that I have learned a lot just reviewing all of these posts! however, I am looking for a baseline or maybe one of you has a few tunes worked out that I could give a try. I will be finishing my installation of the RV275 injectors this weekend (while I am in the beast I head studded it as well). Mods are CAI, 4" banks monster exhaust, 150 raptor with the big line kit, boost elbow, and obviously the quad. NEW rv275 injectors. (stock hx35) I am looking for a performance tune, towing tune, and a DD tune. if I am out of line asking for help please let me know and I will not post again... I have read through this thread as well as the thread for tuning the quad. unfortunately, I just do not feel comfortable just throwing numbers in and giving her hell. I trust your judgement way more than I trust myself!! Thanks in advance for all of the help!

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I run 'Me78569 RaceTune' most of the time 

And 'fun / Daily tune mid injectors trucks' here and there. 

 

Long trips I use an economy one from Mopar1973Man. 

 

I wish I knew more about how to understand the Quadzilla V2 Excel Tune Builder.  Works great if you know what you're looking at ? 

Edited by SavageTusk
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Alright fellas, had a great night of racing the other night, truck ran flawlessly.  Next day however, im experiencing a "popping" at higher RPMs.  Almost as if its bouncing off the rev limiter.  I followed the instructions and made this graph.  Anyone noticing anything weird? Or "out of whack?" 

 

Roads were wet during the log, so i did get some tire spin.  I just wanted to duplicate the issue.  

20180828_154629.jpg

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I am new to all of this too, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. It looks to me like either the graphing is out of wack, or something funny is going on with the canbus fueling. I would think that it would pretty closely mirror throttle position to a certain degree. 

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  • 2 months later...

going to revive this thread with a question. last night i took my truck out for one of the last few times before winter. It was a very cold night, about 10*. I havent driven it in weather any colder than like 40-50 degrees out since i got my quad v2.

so after i got it warmed up i got on it and i noticed it sounded pretty weird. made a very slight rapid popping sound, kinda sounded like a duramax. After continuing down the road i got to thinking that maybe the 30* of timing at 3k rpm and the extra cold air was pushing timing/boost/drive pressure too high and i was getting timing rattle.

I got on it one more time just to see if it did it again, which it did. still drove 100% normal the rest of the way home.

I pulled in the garage and looked under the truck and i had oil dripping in the front of the truck. I thought maybe i blew out the front main seal or some kind of seal/gasket. The entire front suspension was COVERED in oil. i tracked the oil to the front of the motor where the head and block meet. I have soot chunks in my coolant. im thinking head gasket.

 

MY QUESTION IS: i thought i read in this thread that the vp44 couldnt even produce enough timing to really cause problems, so setting at max timing at max rpm was fine with studs. 

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fueling the vp can't realy mess anything up, timing is a bit easier to cause issues, but not a huge deal.  I wouldn't be running 30* at sub 3k rpm unless in a race application.   

 

I would be interested in seeing your tune though.  My first thought is luck of the draw though.  colder air should delay the combustion event so you should be less likely to have issues. 

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6 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

fueling the vp can't realy mess anything up, timing is a bit easier to cause issues, but not a huge deal.  I wouldn't be running 30* at sub 3k rpm unless in a race application.   

 

I would be interested in seeing your tune though.  My first thought is luck of the draw though.  colder air should delay the combustion event so you should be less likely to have issues. 

im actually at 28* at 3k and 30* max. but yea it pretty much is a race application. only time i drive it is either at the track, street racing, or just to go out and have some fun. 

the other thing i forgot to mention is that my boost pressures ALWAYS have read 60-63 psi with this set up and after i got back home i looked at my data log and it reached 71 psi. ive never had an issue with timing rattle before this very cold night. wouldnt much colder air be much more dense and have more oxygen, thus increasing timing? in a similar way to nitrous on a smaller scale. thus why you have to run lower timing while running nitrous. 

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66745

 

 

Edited by cumminsVP2001
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it reads 60 psi at idle state?   or only at wot?  

 

 

I believe the longer time to heat hte air will trump the denser air.  N02 is 2 parts O so it has much more effect than cooler air.

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14 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

it reads 60 psi at idle state?   or only at wot?  

 

 

I believe the longer time to heat hte air will trump the denser air.  N02 is 2 parts O so it has much more effect than cooler air.

at wot of course. the cold air had to of played some kind of part. ive done hundreds of pulls throughout the summer and fall with this setup. my number are always consistent.  then i take it out of a very cold day and it timing rattles/pops at wot and makes 10 more psi of boost all of the sudden

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The only factor that changed for sure is the cetane of the fuel being that higher cetane is going to ignite sooner and most likely gaining cylinder pressure with the colder air mixture. 

 

41 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

I believe the longer time to heat hte air will trump the denser air.

 

Wrapping my mind around that... Being the air is in the cylinder the entire time regardless of the fuel timing.

 

Being the fuel is injected 30° of timing that coupled with high cetane fuel that burns faster and ignites earlier I'm going to bet more on that the fuel was lighting off way sooner than usual and cylinder pressures came up. Where with lower cetane fuel of the summertime tend to lag a bit more in ignition time. Hence why like myself I saw a good drop in MPG's when the cetane finally kicked in fully and then drop the timing 2° and now gain back the MPG's. Cold air I'm at +10°F in the morning and IAT is at roughly 62°F during this time. 

 

My max is 27° of timing. Just beyond that, I just start the bucking game. 

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