trreed's upgrade thread

[Dieselfuture]

@trreed so S362/68/14 you got is a direct bolt on and can exhaust break be used with it like on hx35. How is it compare to the hybrid. And what's the difference in 12 vs 14 cm. Would it be ok for Towing or just playing. I'm debating what route I want to go as in near future I'll be looking to upgrade but would like to keep my EB that bolts on to turbo, and not inline. Sorry as Im not too expirienced in turbos. I do have studs but not sure what grade, they we're installed by PO. 

[trreed]

So the S300 series have a V-band style exhaust outlet, so a bolt on style exhaust brake like the ones offered for a HX35 would not work.  I would think it would be possible to find a he351 style exhaust brake and make that work, if desired, because the he351 has the v-band clamp.  

I have not run the hybrid, so I cannot compare the two, but the 68mm exhaust wheel moves a lot of volume, and then so does the compressor wheel.  Differences in 12cm and 14cm housings is the area the exhaust gas has to run around before exiting.  So a 12cm housing is smaller, and therefore would spool faster than a larger 14 cm housing. 

This turbo is non-gated and a rather large sized housing for the elevation I'm at (~6000 ft) so spooling is noticeably slower than my old S362/65/12, and when towing, the lag is definitely noticeable.  But the 125 hp injectors push enough fuel and the large trailer puts enough load on the engine that the turbo spools faster.  

For your needs, I would recommend something like a Industrial Injection Phatshaft 62 (a 62/65/12), as it would be a good upgrade for you, but unfortunately the EB would not bolt up anymore and a 4" EB would be needed. @TFaoro has one if the II phstshafts and loves it.

[trreed]

10 hours ago, TFaoro said:

BTW!!!! @trreed was being lazy and wouldn't cut the stock lift pump bracket so it was smooth and sexy against the block. I tried!!!

 

[trreed]

I made some progress on polishing the turbo housing today.  So far, all work has been done with a die grinder and a combination of 60 grit disks, a rust/paint stripper disk, and a scotchbrite disk.  Despite the appearance of the picture, there is lots more sanding to do, and I think it'll all be hand sanding from here.  The die grinder and disks used gave a nice base shine, but the finer sandpaper will bring the true shine out.  I'm also thinking about spraying the "Borg Warner" black before the final sanding.  I have stopped work because I have been informed it is Friday, which means it is Date Night, so work will resume tomorrow.

For a frame of reference, here is the turbo before I started polishing it..

Edited March 24, 2017 by trreed

[notlimah]

Nice progress! 

[trreed]

Unfortunately, I need to have the truck running in a few hours here, so the turbo polishing is going to have to wait.  It is mostly finished, and a quick coat of aluminum polish should help keep the oxidation off until I can pull the housing off to finish it

[Mopar1973Man]

I would shoot a light coat of lacquer on the housing to keep the shine longer.

Edited March 25, 2017 by Mopar1973Man

[trreed]

Oh that's a great idea!  I'll be sure to go buy some in the next day here.  Just got back from a test drive with the new VP..  Truck idles much quieter now, though that might be the 3 piece manifold.  @Me78569, I noticed my CANBus numbers were jumping anywhere between 310-422, whereas with the old HO pump, the numbers would jump between 168-298.  Any thoughts?

 

The pictures below just show how everything looks with the new manifold in place, and then with the compressor housing on, and finally the whole engine bay.  It sure is good to have my truck back!

 

Only thing left to do is to build a little bracket to hold the coolant line to the manifold... should take all of 5 minutes at school.

Edited March 25, 2017 by trreed

[notlimah]

That extra hose over the manifold is for coolant? What is it's purpose?

[trreed]

It is collecting data for @TFaoro's coolant bypass.  I have it hooked to my Quad's fuel pressure gauge to see what the coolant pressures are at the back of the cylinder head, while Tyler is collecting pressure data from the freeze plug at the back of the block.  This way he can select the best pressure release valve for his coolant bypass system.

[Me78569]

I wouldn't worry about it.  If it idles good it idles good.  Idle state is all OEM fueling and timing so the ECM I asking for that much fuel to get x RPM.

[trreed]

Sounds good.  

Finished up my coolant line bracket tonight. It was very simple, just two holes in a piece of angle iron .  It will be painted black with high temp paint and installed tomorrow.  Also gave her a bath tonight, to clean up the diesel from bleeding lines and to get two weeks of tree gunk off of her...

[trreed]

Yesterday I made a trip down to @TFaoro's shop to put a Fast cooler on my truck and do a pinion seal.  While there I was able to witness his new p pumped truck start up and go back together, while putting my truck back together.  The Fast cooler allowed for 7 quarts of brand new Synchromesh to be put in the trans, and it was very happy.  And the pinion seal stopped the gear oil from getting all over the underside of my truck....

 

Pictures below are of Tyler's truck, the Fast cooler on my truck, and of my (girlfriend's) puppy Nala, who accompanied me down and back.

[jlbayes]

Yall must be good at pulling the pump on his truck by now. LOL

[trreed]

That was all him lol. I stood by and provided encouragement. 

[dripley]

I am jealous of the timing cover. Sure is purdy!!!

[trreed]

I agree, it sure would be nice to have that!

[jlbayes]

They are very nice. As well is the adjustable gear.

[TFaoro]

16 hours ago, dripley said:

I am jealous of the timing cover. Sure is purdy!!!

 

3 hours ago, trreed said:

I agree, it sure would be nice to have that!

And for the low price of just $350 it can be all yours!!  

[dripley]

2 hours ago, TFaoro said:

 

And for the low price of just $350 it can be all yours!!  

That's exactly why i did not ask. Very purdy but wallet unfriendly.