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Bosch VP44 injection pump removal the fast way!


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  • Owner
8 hours ago, CumminsTech said:

I guess when doing a pump just not as stressful

 

I hate to say but wrong. You know the two nuts on the block side I dropped one and never found it. Drove me crazy check everything making sure that it couldn't do any damage where ever it fell.

 

8 hours ago, CumminsTech said:

The ears go on high alert picking up the smallest of strange noises, brain even makes up a few sometimes

 

That is so true. But my problem is going from extreme heavy rattle to almost dead silent. Now I've got to figure out a good tune. I've asked @me78569 for his specs so I've got a base line to look at. 

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  • Owner

Weird...

 

So far the VP44 is doing good. Starts easy without grid heaters idles good. Now after the trip to Boise it got the like yet which is hard to explain. The coasting to light it sounds like Alex pulled after a run with slight surge idle that fades out. For information value I'm NOT wire tapped. Power isn't as good as with the tap, but still very strong running on the highway. MPG wise it appears to be close to the 18 to 19 range yet.

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  • 1 year later...
  • Owner
1 minute ago, Red Rambler said:

Where did you purchase your VP44 from? I am going to go with industrial injection when the time comes. 

 

I buy mine from DAP. DAP sells both Midwest Injection and Industrial Injection VP44 pumps. Vulcan Performance is another safe bet also sells Industrial Injection. 

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  • Owner
8 minutes ago, Red Rambler said:

@dieselautopower who makes this pump? I see it has a two year warranty while all others have a 1 year.  Thanks. 

 

https://www.dieselautopower.com/bosch-027-vp44-fuel-injection-pump-standard-output-235hp-wire-tap-voids-2-year-warranty-vp44027

 

I'm pretty sure its Midwest Injection. 

 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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  • Staff

I really like the step by step presentation. Nothing like simplifying to help eliminate the fear.

 

I'm still afraid of dropping the keyway inside the gear case..... does it fit tight or does it easily pull or fall right out if not careful? The way I get it is you just cannot bump the key when removing or replacing, so when placing the new VP how do you hold onto the VP and look in front, while your hands arms tend to wiggle to see if lined up?

 

 

 

 

Edited by JAG1
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I went these instructions when I replaced the pump after failure and once to do the tapped cover gasket. It works quite well. I just turned the engine until the key was straight up had no problems either time. I was still a bit apprehensive the first time.

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  • Owner

I was the same way years ago doing my first VP44 replacement. Now I've done so many that it doesn't even phase me and I can just about grab every tool I need before starting. My fast R&R time was in a hay field in a rainstorm I was completed and driving back to the owner's house in a little over 1.5 hours. Trust me you don't want to drop anything or have to crawl out from the tarp over the hood. Makes a good tent and stay dry. 

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  • 1 year later...
On 4/17/2017 at 9:49 AM, crf450ish said:

Looks good. Like how you always have a way of streamlining moderately difficult tasks on these trucks. 

Right? I'm with crf450ish, simply done, kinda.  Thx for posting changing mine out today. :0)

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  • Staff

When you pull the pump set the new and old side by side on the bench and you can turn the shaft to match the position of the key when the VP came out. If your doing it right you turned over the engine till the key was at the top before removal, but it might be at 11:30 or 12:30 so you want to get it as close as you can on the bench before install. See if the keyway comes out and glue it, but look with a magnifying glass for the arrow stamped on the keyway.... it has to be the right way before you glue it in. This is very important. :2cents:

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