Moving away from wife

[Mopar1973Man]

Well my A/C unit on my RV would take 3,500 watt generator minimum to even run it. So to show him size of system and what it takes to drive these devices. I'm sure he'll back down like I've done 2 camping trips now with my RV with 1,200 watt inverter, 45w solar panel no problems. No A/C, No, Electric water heater, No electric fridge. All on propane. I was able to watch TV (DVD Movies) most of the evening. Lighting is the hard part which need to be converted to LEDs.

 

 

[JAG1]

I see then.

 

I don't have solar and don't charge off the truck. Just use shore power and a quiet generator to charge batteries and they are only for lights, water pump, furnace fan and TV once in awhile.

 

Everything else is propane which you need to check on once in awhile. the flexible hoses start leaking after around 10 years and the regulator needs changing every ten years as well for safety.

Edited May 12, 2017 by JAG1

[Mopar1973Man]

The trick with RV power is being small enough to haul with the RV but big enough to cover the majority of what you plan on powering. The trick to remember is watts will remain the same but the 12V side will be 10 times higher amperage draw that the 120V side.

 

For example 

 

10 Amps x 120 Volts = 1,200 Watts = 12 Volts x 100 Amps

 

I know this is not exact but the basics are shown. This why I limited my system on the RV to 1,200 Watts knowing the DC load will be upwards of 100 Amps. It would be a different story if this was a 24 volt system but then again the weight would be too much for an RV. Personally if I had the extra funds I would look at these for the RV, might need bigger battery boxes but...

 

http://www.trojanbattery.com/product/t-145/

 

 

 

Edited May 12, 2017 by Mopar1973Man

[JAG1]

Joe most run of the mill RV chargers are not very good and can possibly ruin a good set of batteries. Be careful of the type of charge system before investing in good batteries. The charge controller for the solar needs to be a good one also.

 

You can always add more solar panels and more storage capacity with the batteries  but still.... I would not rely entirely on the 12 volt system. Best to have a back up plan in winter with propane and electricity hook up. You'll need a dehumidifier like said before or it gets crazy inside a damp RV in winter.

 

I perk my coffee with propane over the stove it save coffee and tastes better.

 

I don't like inverters much because you loose amp hrs in just going from 12 volts to 120 volts ac. I do have a small inverter for shaving and running the TV sometimes but mostly like 12 volt appliances instead.

 

Sometimes the size and number of Solar panels is limited by the roof space on the rv or you can do like Mike..... Park in shade, yeah, yeah, and place the panels in the sun.

 

Just some thoughts.

[joecool911]

Is there a style RV construction that's more better...bad grammar, but serious question. Wood vs aluminum frame. Fiberglass vs aluminum skin. Molded nose and roof that seams further away from corners???

[JAG1]

The amount of insulation being thicker walls will have better framing possibly. Insulation R value will determine long term livability as my 1 inch insulated so called high end camper starts building up condensation everywhere between the outside skin and the insulation. At one point I got so much build up in winter that it ruined a circuit control board for the camper jacks. It became very uncomfortable to stay any longer so on an out of town job I brought it home and began commuting the long distance instead.

 

Don't think cheap when buying, get the best you can insulation wise and frame wise. Don't ever buy on the spot, walk away and do your research on the unit with layout you like first. It's very easy to get very unhappy with what they are building now a days so do the searching on Google and ask loads of questions. It will sell better and loose less depreciation if you happen to change your living style.

 

Heated tanks and plumbing is a must too.

 

Look into every area of the unit most folks don't want to bother you'll see the good, the bad, the ugly and you'll know bud.

 

If you want I can do a short inspection for you free of course, and give my opinion.

Edited May 13, 2017 by JAG1

[Mopar1973Man]

Take the time and hunt the plumbing down too. Like my current Jayco has plumbing outside the RV and really prone to freezing. No way to resolve it because of the floor plan and the slide.

[JAG1]

Check on a RV brand called, Outdoors RV. They are made in Oregon with heated tanks and better construction and insulation. Some complaints on them but company is good to the owners.