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notlimah

Front end lift questions

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Alright guys, recently got a set of 4th gen wheels that'll be going on the truck soon with 285's. I really like the way my truck sits now unloaded, just wanting the smaller tires. 

 

My main question is with the 2in level up front the truck sits/looks really good and since I'm not typically hooked up to a trailer this is what I prefer. However, I don't really like the truck to squat when I do hook up. I know I know, best of both worlds! 

 

Here's my truck with 1600lbs of concrete in the back, not loaded with weight distribution in mind so the majority is at the rear axle or further back towards the tail gate. 

 

IMG_4982.JPG.449762d63b67afcdc5f790809af63a92.JPG

 

It sat on the overload springs and gave me this stance. Overall not as bad as I thought it'd be but it's got me wondering. If I installed something like Timbrens, would that keep the squat more closely to my empty stance? Or even go to something like a 1in spacer? 

 

I want to avoid bags because they won't get used much and the timbrens seem much more user friendly. Either that or I toss the spacer idea all together and just deal with the raked look empty.

 

Thoughts?!

 

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I guess what I dont get is how it is sitting level like that with a 2" lift in the front and the rear is on the overloads. That is how my truck sits with the 5th wheel on the back and no spacers on the front. I is confused.:think:

 

I am the opposite of you and like the stock rake of the truck. Just looks like it is begging for good load to haul. 

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Yea I was just as confused Dripley hahah It does have a bit of a rear end sag though, just not as much as I would've thought.

 

It may not have been on the overloads here, if not they were just a touch above resting on the overloads. I don't mind the stock rake look, I just don't like the over rake look some trucks seems to have, almost like the stink bug look ya know?

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Sorry, it will squat like an old Ford truck as soon as you hitch up. Very common for level trucks to squat when they tow. Now if you left the front stock with the stock rake then it would be level when hitched. You could overcome the squatting issue with air bags but it will make the ride very harsh with the rear suspension tighten up with air bags. The part I hate is all the level trucks I meet on the highway at night towing are blinding you because the headlights are now too high. 

 

Empty you can see my rake...

24eazqo.jpg

 

Loaded with 10,000 pounds of hay... Automatic level

286vj2r.jpg

 

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I can't tell which is bigger... the background or that mountain of hay

 

notlimah, I'm going to put my front end back to stock, taking out the two inch level kit. I have the 03 adjustable track bar, longer end links and the two inch spacers. If you want them mine still look shiny and new, but you have to get me a non adjustable 03 track bar for a replacement and help me with it if you want.

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5 hours ago, CTcummins24V said:

I've read some things about timbrens. I think they are made for someone who tows 24/7, otherwise you bounce off them during suspension articulation when unloaded. 

 

 

 

Yea I wondered about that. I did see quite a few say it wasn't bad when empty. Those that did think it was a little harsh took out the spacer so it wouldn't touch until it was loaded down a little more.

 

@Mopar1973Man Like I mentioned, I'm not opposed to going back to stock height, just would prefer to stay with the leveled look. Since I don't tow that often I'd like to find a good compromise to have the preferred unloaded look without squatting terribly when I do tow.

 

@JAG1 I'd come help if we were closer! Also, not sure if you'd need to go back to non-adjustable track bar or not. :think:

Edited by notlimah

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most likely non adjustable but needs to be the 2003 upgrade. No problem we can do it at the eclipse camp and take Michael Nelsons off his truck. He won't miss it.

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4 hours ago, JAG1 said:

No problem we can do it at the eclipse camp and take Michael Nelsons off his truck. He won't miss it.

I'll bring the tools.

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I'm going to do that, but not sure about the part where you jack up the truck and leave the front differential hanging. Then remove the shock tower and the spacer will lift out? Is that right?

 

 

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3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Jack it up by the frame. Allow the axle to hang barely. Remove the tires. Remove the shocks. Then remove the shims. 

and when set back down the front axle needs adjusting back to center with adjustable track bar.

 

The two inch lift was fun for little while.

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Are you just lifting by using the cross member or something? It's hard to jack the front of these trucks up being they're so heavy!

 

I'd be interested to hear how to you go about taking your spacer out Jag so if I do go that route I can know how it's done!

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Lift the axle under the pumkin, high, jack stand it, take the wheels off. Then you put a set of jack stands under the frame somewhere and use the jack to lift and lower the axle for removing springs. Might need some concrete blocks under the jack stands for the frame, I can't remember. I used 4 jacks stands for safety, had the wheels under the truck frame and always supported the axle with the jack. 

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Now I'm beginning to remember. Thanks CT.

 

I will Matt.

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Cool, I was thinking similar I think...

 

Loosen lug nuts on ground, lift via front diff high enough to get wheels off ground, jack stands under the frame, take wheels off, lower jack to manipulate the springs/shocks coming out, replace, and repeat to lower.

 

I think we're saying the same thing just slightly different :thumbup2:

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Have to take out the drag links or end links on the sway bar and go long or shorts depending.

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16 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Have to take out the drag links or end links on the sway bar and go long or shorts depending.

 

Ah to get the axle higher or lower you need to remove either one so the sway bar doesn't cause resistance?

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I never disconnected my sway bar links when I changed my front Springs, just shoks. But I only went to plow package springs to support my front bumper and a winch. They were not much longer but a bit stiffer.

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if you do the spacers I know you need to be able to lift a bit higher to get them in so I had to take links loose off the sway bar. I was able to reuse the oem links but they were under a lot of pull so I got the 2 inch longer ones.

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