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rogerash0

VP44 PSG5 limitations read/write

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rogerash0    0
rogerash0

Ya, by not coming on I thought it would be clear that meant staying on after the bulb check. My bad. I remember clearly the truck was running real good, I had no problems with it besides my AirDog dropping pressure down to 8-10psi on WOT pulls. That's why I took it in for a ECM reflash, because in their manual they say to do that.

 

Fast forward, I never got the ECM reflash, I got a PCM reflash, I had hard starts after that. Airdog had me install my original non-adjustable base which remains on the truck. I changed filters (tried 10 and 2 micron), changed water seperator, changed fittings, changed harnesses, changed all fuel lines, bought a new gas cap, they sent out a new AD200 motor, I installed a sump. You name it. Re-did all the relays in the fuse panel except the funky short square ones. Made sure voltage is proper @ 13.5-14.3. Typically its 13.7-14.0. I tend to watch it like a hawk after dealing with a limp mode and things. Now I have the AD200 motor on there, AD100 original non-adjustable base, I cut the spring down so Im 16-17 PSI at idle, 16 psi in drive not moving, 15 PSI with 5-10% throttle, and it'll still drop down to 11psi at WOT with the 50HP injectors. Drives me mad. Only reason I went with the AD165 originally /w the new motor was because my AD100 that came on the truck was rock solid at 15-17psi all the time. Ive given up on calling them.

 

jlbayes - It always seemed strange to me that 2nd gen injectors were so cheap. I still to this moment dont know who builds better stuff than DDP. Not saying they are the best by any means, but it seems that they carry the highest price tag. BD probably waivers close to them if I had to recall.

 

Im not looking to drag race, but if I a lockup switch improves daily driving then thats what I want. I've been meaning to put one in, but I know I have to use it right, and I dont know how to use it really. I can guess and get along, but generally to learn I must first break something. That's not a path Im trying to run down right now.

 

I'd almost take better driveability and less smoke than 600hp right now. We will see. I'll try to get a iquad and I've got the Edge's low end fueling turned down to 1 for now. I will continue to tune the WG. I'm seeing with the Edge boost elbow I only get 8 PSI @ WOT with the WG regulator full open (it's got a guage on it). With a normal 45* brass plumbing elbow I was seeing 45psi at WOT.

 

Also the truck when I first drove it with all these mods except it had the 1.10 cover on the S475 and a stock intake elbow on there, it made 53PSI. Ever since that day I've been looking to get the boost back, I think it was my billet intake mani from D&J that was slowly leaking. Since then I have got the 3.5" banks intake /w 3.5" tube on there. I also threw my drive pressure sensor in the intake elbow originally to compare the MAP sensor to Edge's sensor, and they were within 1-2psi of each other. I think the $80 Napa MAP sensor reacted quicker and was slightly more accurate. The Edge sensor readings seemed to lag behind it by roughly a second.

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Mopar1973Man    3,697
Mopar1973Man

Ditch the Edge the sublevel control of smoke is not a good design. At least with the Quadzilla you can set the low boost fuel numbers below stock rate and tune out a majority of the smoke issues. 

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Dieselfuture    288
Dieselfuture

Greeds will cycle pretty much every time you start the truck, and can cycle on and off first few minutes and wts will not come on while the ruck is running already even though grids are cycling, but wts does need to come on righ a way when you turn key on. 

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rogerash0    0
rogerash0

I took a video, but I don't have a way to upload it right now. It shows the WTS light coming on first before any other light by half a sec or a quarter second.

 

Thx for the insight on the grids Diesel.

I didn't realise quad had such better smoke control.

 

I bought DDP Injectors bc they were the priceiest I knew of. I wanted the best.

 

I'm seeing .007v-.01v AC off the batteries. How's that?

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Me78569    1,933
Me78569
5 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

 

 

I'm seeing .007v-.01v AC off the batteries. How's that?

Batteries act as a filter test from the alternator itself.

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jlbayes    258
jlbayes

Infinite performance, Haley Speed Inc., F1 Fuel Injection are the ones I would consider for injectors. 12v & vp injectors are "cheap" due to being a mechanical poppet injector. Do not let advertising or price fool you. I have yet to see a set of ddp injectors come close to anything more affordably priced in performance. Industrial Injection is another that charges an extreme premium for a less than mediocre product.

 

I use a lockup switch daily on my stock 12v. Stupid sloppy stock 47re converter.

 

The edge is reading the sensor value across the bus. Likely why the resolution was worse.

 

You said you have a 1.32 on there now correct? That is where some of your boost went.

  • Thanks 1

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rogerash0    0
rogerash0

I lost 6-7lbs of boost with no changes to the truck after it's first couple months of being run with the new motor.

 

I recalled after going to the 1.32 when I used to have 6-7psi I had 3-4psi with the same load and rpm on the roads I drive to and from work daily (same driving style etc).

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jlbayes    258
jlbayes

That larger housing moves quite a bit more air than the 1.10 jobber. When is the last time you pressure checked the piping? Sorry if I missed that somewhere. Lotta info to try and absorb in all the posts.

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rogerash0    0
rogerash0
31 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I've watched that video before, probably from you on here.

Ya JL- I know I throw info out there incohesively too. Last time I did a pressure test was about a month ago after re-sealing the billet intake manifold with The Right Stuff. I took pics, some areas have only a quarter inch or less (maybe even an 1/8", I should refind pics) 

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rogerash0    0
rogerash0

On the back of the alt, one post gives me 7.53-7.59v AC, the other gives .061v-.065v.

 

Off the charging cable at the alt I see .015vac.

 

All measurements on a hot engine with the turbo center section used as a ground.

 

When I bought the truck I read about the 53 block but could not find the casting at the time. I got it for $7100, it had the edge tuner, air bags, etc. I thought it was amazing. Well I started leaking coolant roughly a year after owning it, and right away I was able to identify the 53 in the casting. So $13000 plus 1k S&H later for a D&J motor, this is what I get.

Bad Port.jpg

I have pics of the rest of the exhaust ports. This one was the worst in terms of unburnt oil on the roof.

Bad seal in head.jpg

CNCd port.jpg

I noticed the very center of the ports were untouched despite their 5 axis CNC machine. My only explanation for this was the port height & angles were already optimized stock and they didnt want to disrupt the swirl in the cylinder. This is their stage 2 porting on the intake side. Stage 1 is exhaust side only.

intake.jpg

Valve seals.jpg

Edited by rogerash0

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jlbayes    258
jlbayes

I would be less than impressed with the valve seals.....

 

The only other cnc'd head I have seen (in person) the ports were opened up even the roof. Some do not like touching the roof due to the connector tube passage. 

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Dieselfuture    288
Dieselfuture

My exhaust side looked similar not as bad on oil resedue, wow on your valve seals nothing left, how many miles on rebuild. I'd be all over your rebuilder I don't care if you took it to the track every weekend it should last for quite a while. Unless you use send for oil. Just kidding of course. Looks like poor job to me.

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rogerash0    0
rogerash0

Ya I wrote Jared about a month ago and typically he reply to emails same day. I should get on them but I hate being a pain in the *** and I know I'm gonna get the run around. It's embarrassing blowing white smoke all over while the engine is cold, and even some when it's warm if I don't rev it out.

Edited by rogerash0

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Dieselfuture    288
Dieselfuture

You may have a cracked head and that could be reason why you blowing smoke. Just a speculation. 

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rogerash0    0
rogerash0

As in it's coolant? They said they do all the checks on the head to ensure it's not cracked. I have noticed my radiator hose seem to stay pressurized for a long *** time. Like overnight. I have mishimoto radiator and cap.

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Dieselfuture    288
Dieselfuture

If you're not using coolant then probably not, I was just thinking out loud. I know sometimes when there is a crack someplace then it would do odd stuff cold vs hot etc. Reserch white smoke in diesel and see what can cause it. Like air in fuel, water in fuel, timing maybe. 

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jlbayes    258
jlbayes

When I blew up my hy35 it white smoked like a mofo. Dumped all kinds of oil in the exhaust. Not saying that is what you have going on but it was weird to me the smoke was white vs. blue.

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rogerash0    0
rogerash0

Jl - My S475 had oil around the compressor wheel inlet housing, and the 62mm had oil coked up around the wheel. The 5 bolts on the WG housing were weeping oil, that's what led me on. I bought another s475, that's when I got the 1.32 housing. The "weepy" s475 sits on the garage floor to date. Assuming it's weepy. I don't know  how the heck it got screwed up so fast. I think it could  have pulled oil  from the air filter but  I recall it was blacm. Then the 62mm also felt like it had more play in the comp wheel than before, when it was new, more then I think it should have, more than 1-3 thou. But I'm not a machinest. Reason why I suspect the 62 is good after all is that it works well from what I can tell, the oil is no  longer dripping from the WG housing or appearing fresh at the comp wheel, and the wheel isn't hitting the housing.

 

I now run stock timing to reduce smoke and give the truck better manners. Also to save crank bearings some and pickup a few more psi of boost. Mostly to reduce smoke in the bottom end, and have a much smoother driving truck. 

 

One day I had a big puff of white smoke come out the back, and I know that's not normal. Perhaps that was the start to my white smoke dellimma. I was just driving 30ish mph down a road I drive everyday.

Edited by rogerash0

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jlbayes    258
jlbayes

Well if you are/were passing oil from the valve seals it could be the source of the white smoke. What I was kind of alluding to. Any s400 I've had have been loose af. But no signs of oil passing.

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Mopar1973Man    3,697
Mopar1973Man
20 hours ago, rogerash0 said:

On the back of the alt, one post gives me 7.53-7.59v AC, the other gives .061v-.065v.

 

The alternator is shot. Replace... Anything over 0.1 AC volts at the BATT stud is an instant fail.

 

Double check your electrical system for any ground modifications or noise filters added at the PCM. Remove all modifications and return the electrical back to factory layout and remove any addon's. This will make the noise easier to detect all the other modification mask or hide the issue making it tougher to test for or detect the issue. 

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rogerash0    0
rogerash0

I think I have a filter added to the harness by the PCM. I'll get you a pic. It doesnt look stock to me, but its wrapped up in the harness. The alt has two very small posts that can put it in a full field effect, and the big post with the battery cable coming off of it. The big post with the batt cable coming off of it is where I measured 0.015vac. It's a "brand new" duralast alternator, been on the truck maybe 2 months. After going thru 1 reman Napa alt, and 1 brand new Napa Bosch alt, they quit helping me out. I got a third alternator from them, and its in the garage, and its a reman, but Im running the duralast right now. Im basically keeping the Napa reman as a spare in the garage, I had that many problems.

 

JL - Im beyond confident the valve seals are the source of the white smoke.. I see what you mean now by why isnt it blue. The ports all being wet in the exhaust mani shows it coming from the valve guides. Why my new oem seals took a crap like the first set is beyond me. The guys at Rocky Mountain Cummins say if those metal rings from the valve seals drop down to the pan, and the oil pickup sucks em up, it'll seize the oil pump right away. So here's to hoping the debris stays in the top of the head. I couldnt find any of the rings even with a magnet. The oil is so darn dark and deep throughout the head.

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Mopar1973Man    3,697
Mopar1973Man
15 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

The guys at Rocky Mountain Cummins say if those metal rings from the valve seals drop down to the pan, and the oil pickup sucks em up, it'll seize the oil pump right away.

 

Where are you located at could you fill out your profile? Rocky Mountain Cummins is in Boise ID. I'll be in Ontario, OR all this week. If you want to get together.

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rogerash0    0
rogerash0

I'd love to get together Moparman, Im sure I could pick your brain about a million things. I'm in Great Falls, MT unfortunately. ID is way nicer, I just recently drove through on the way down to Vegas not that long ago. 

 

JL, it's got a Hamilton 182/214 cast cam. I cant say that the motor really drops my jaw to the floor, even with all the mods. Sometimes I think my chargers are too small for the flow that the Stg 2 head can move, or what the Stg 2 is optimized for if you will. They sold me on it saying spool up will be improved further more, but I have a hard time believing spool up is any better. Now if I was running some big *** chargers I could believe it, but with these tow chargers, I think the stock manifold may run just as good or better, save a ton of coin, and likely not be nearly as prone to leaks.

 

Today I finally got my wastegate set to crack just-a-tad-more-than-slightly at 20 psi, by 30 psi its half open, and 40 PSI its full open. It definitely felt better. I had to put two nuts on the actuator arm to set it properly, it only came with one on there, which really threw me off for a long time. Its no longer audibly slamming open /w 40-45 psi compressed air, and its definitely closed with 0psi going to it. The mid-range did feel good, torque feels up. I didnt get to test drive it enough to see if my big charger was still putting out 1/2 the PSI of total boost, but I know previously it was. When I say 1/2 the total boost, it was within 1-2psi.

 

I still wanna take a pic of a white circular thing that I think is a capacitor that someone wired in, up by the PCM.

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