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leaky brake booster

dripley
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Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

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I've heard they are not hard to go through but need time like anything else. I just changed one on a k2500 suburban and we ended up just buying a rebuilt unit with life time warranty from orily. Took almost 2 hours but we were not in a hurry. I think it was  $150 didn't pay attention it's easy to spend friends money lol. Probably would be cheaper on line but for sertain parts I don't mind paying more so you can always exchange it and not deal with shipping and wait.

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dripley

dripley

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I do like the convenience of buying at the local parts house. In this case no one seems to stock it plus they all want $220 for one where as Rock Auto has the same ones for $150. Seal kit is a whole lot cheaper my only worry is something going wrong and now my truck has to sit. That's not good when I have to be back on the job in Maryland. Rental cars tend to blow the budget. Got a little time I hope since it is just a small drip at the moment. I had planned on resealing my vac pump over labor day, Might be a good time to do them both.

 

I also thought about finding a core in a junk yard and just rebuilding it. The couple I found so far are $100 or so. That and a seal kit would take about what a reman cost.

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dripley

dripley

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This is the first leak I have had on mine also. The power steering and bake system is all OEM also. After 415k I cant complain. Mine is in need of a flush also. Thinking of replacing the power steering pump while I am in there, but I sure hate replacing a part that aint broke yet. I can feel @IBMobile staring at me right now.

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Haggar

Haggar

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Drip,

The booster rebuilds easily.  I have some pictures from my rebuild (it was for a GM application so a bit different on pedal end.)

 

I think i got all my parts from these guys and talked with them on the phone.  They are in Asheville .    http://piratejack.net/installation-videos-helpful-resources/

 

The two cup seals on the left (in the picture) are what is allowing power steering fluid to leak into the cab.....

 

Hag

IMG_6949.jpg

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CTcummins24V

CTcummins24V

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I did a reman from NAPA, from a cost stand point better off rebuilding with a new seal kit unless time is a big issue, sounds like it might be. You have to do some disassembly of the old unit anyways. You need to take the mounting bracket to the master cylinder off, the spring and star/hex washer thingy and reuse on the reman unit.

 

Also, rod lengths differ, mine did from the reman. You might need to replace the brake switch under the brake pedal for the different rod lengths and adjust it. Once adjusted they can't be readjusted.

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dripley

dripley

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16 minutes ago, CTcummins24V said:

I did a reman from NAPA, from a cost stand point better off rebuilding with a new seal kit unless time is a big issue, sounds like it might be. You have to do some disassembly of the old unit anyways. You need to take the mounting bracket to the master cylinder off, the spring and star/hex washer thingy and reuse on the reman unit.

 

Also, rod lengths differ, mine did from the reman. You might need to replace the brake switch under the brake pedal for the different rod lengths and adjust it. Once adjusted they can't be readjusted.

That is pretty much what I read on the inter web. One fella said he was able to adjust the bracket holding the brake light switch to make up for the shorter rod. I have not looked up there to even see how its mounted.

 

It is the uh oh moment when I realize i either screwed something up or have to have another piece or part that worries me. 

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Haggar

Haggar

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The rod that comes out of the back is what makes the difference for all the different applications....  The rebuild places just rebuild them, they don't know what rod or length you are supposed to have.  GM crimped theirs on. All of my pictures are how to "uncrimp it" then put it back so it is the right length. 

 

Don't let this fool you.  It is amazingly simple inside....  You will kick yourself.   The only "worry" is that the accumulator has pressure.  Just apply the brakes on the truck 5 or 6 times before you start pulling the unit out.   a big C clamp is how you remove the accumulator.

Picture of removing the accumulator

Here are the two housings coming apart.  (previous picture showed you the silver pistons out of the housings)

and a picture of the output rod and spring.

and a cross section of the assembly, just for giggles.

IMG_6928.jpg

hydroboost cross section.jpg

IMG_6925.jpg

IMG_6946.jpg

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dripley

dripley

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6 hours ago, Haggar said:

The rod that comes out of the back is what makes the difference for all the different applications....  The rebuild places just rebuild them, they don't know what rod or length you are supposed to have.  GM crimped theirs on. All of my pictures are how to "uncrimp it" then put it back so it is the right length. 

 

Don't let this fool you.  It is amazingly simple inside....  You will kick yourself.   The only "worry" is that the accumulator has pressure.  Just apply the brakes on the truck 5 or 6 times before you start pulling the unit out.   a big C clamp is how you remove the accumulator.

Picture of removing the accumulator

Here are the two housings coming apart.  (previous picture showed you the silver pistons out of the housings)

and a picture of the output rod and spring.

and a cross section of the assembly, just for giggles.

IMG_6928.jpg

hydroboost cross section.jpg

IMG_6925.jpg

IMG_6946.jpg

Trying to figure out what you are doing with the C clamp. Since mine is still mounted I cant see the back side and when I feel back maybe there is a plug of some sort maybe? Does the accumulator piston need to come out?

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dripley

dripley

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I think I am pretty committed to doing this. I went to Pirate Jacks and looked at their kit. I then clicked on the instructions and it linked me to a detailed thread on how to do it. Wouldn't you know that the pictures were also hijacked by Photo Bucket.

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