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TFaoro

How Hot are Your Hydroboost Lines?

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I dont have any way to check the actual temp, but after idling alot and a very short drive I cannot hold them with my finger tips for more than a second or 2. I can hold the return the longest.

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1 hour ago, dripley said:

I dont have any way to check the actual temp, but after idling alot and a very short drive I cannot hold them with my finger tips for more than a second or 2. I can hold the return the longest.

Thanks!

Can we get a couple more? @trreed @jlbayes @Mopar1973Man @Me78569 @JAG1 Spill the beans gentlemen!!

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Mine can be hot after running the truck on the highway for 3 hours then get even hotter sitting in parking lot idling for 4 hours. But my daily driving locally arond home it stays rather cool to the touch.

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2 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Mine can be hot after running the truck on the highway for 3 hours then get even hotter sitting in parking lot idling for 4 hours. But my daily driving locally arond home it stays rather cool to the touch.

Hmmmm. I will have to check mine after a good drive and see how different it might be. Mine is hot mostly from idling and a very short drive.

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Mine are hot enough to not touch for long after a little highway and some stop and go. Maybe 3 or 4 seconds on pressure. The return is cooler but still toasty. :2cents:

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Thanks guys. I'm going to replace my pump (for the 6th time) and the hydroboost and was wondering how hot they "should" be. I'll make sure to flush everything really well before installing.

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46 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

Thanks guys. I'm going to replace my pump (for the 6th time) and the hydroboost and was wondering how hot they "should" be. I'll make sure to flush everything really well before installing.

You thinking your pump is causing the fluid to be hot? I was thinking of changing mine out when I reseal the vacuum pump just because it is the OEM and got 415k on it. Do you change the reservoir too? I see rebuilt pumps are about $30 cheaper without the reservoir.

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15 minutes ago, dripley said:

You thinking your pump is causing the fluid to be hot? I was thinking of changing mine out when I reseal the vacuum pump just because it is the OEM and got 415k on it. Do you change the reservoir too? I see rebuilt pumps are about $30 cheaper without the reservoir.

I've never removed the reservoir. At my local Napa it's 50 for a reman pump with reservoir or over 100 for one without. 

 

I think the hydroboost is plugged making the pump work extra hard and burning it out. I don't think my luck is so bad I've gotten 5 bad remans. Plus it all started after having to lay on the brakes super hard with 20k on the back. 

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9 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

I've never removed the reservoir. At my local Napa it's 50 for a reman pump with reservoir or over 100 for one without. 

 

I think the hydroboost is plugged making the pump work extra hard and burning it out. I don't think my luck is so bad I've gotten 5 bad remans. Plus it all started after having to lay on the brakes super hard with 20k on the back. 

I wonder how hard they are to reseal? The kits are only 10 bucks or so.

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After a 2 hour drive on the freeway towing at 85-90-ish, my lines were hot.  Could hold them for about 5 seconds.  Later, lots of city driving and idling, I could only touch them for about 2 seconds.

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Update - I put a reman hydroboost and a new power steering pump on. Right away I noticed the brakes were easier to push. I've still got a really slight groan when turning around 1100-1200 rpm, but not nearly as bad as it was. There may be a blue top box coming in the near future.

 

Before the swap, if the truck idled for 30sec or so the lines were hot, now after a 10 min drive I can keep my hands on them without an issue. I'm sure it'll get hotter during the long drives, but it does seem better.

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4 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

I've still got a really slight groan when turning around 1100-1200 rpm, but not nearly as bad as it was.

 

I had the same problem all I did was flush the system out with some Walmart Supertech power steering fluid and that is gone. Fresh fluid does wonders. 

 

You not using ATF by chance are you?

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12 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I had the same problem all I did was flush the system out with some Walmart Supertech power steering fluid and that is gone. Fresh fluid does wonders. 

 

You not using ATF by chance are you?

I flushed everything before installing the new stuff.

Nope, I bought a gallon of Napa conventional power steering fluid.

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You've got a restriction somewhere. If it was me I would just put $30 in a seal kit pull the steering box apart and rebuild it and find the restriction than messing with a redhead or blue top box. I can rebuild that sagnaw in my sleep its so easy. 

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4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

You've got a restriction somewhere. If it was me I would just put $30 in a seal kit pull the steering box apart and rebuild it and find the restriction than messing with a redhead or blue top box. I can rebuild that sagnaw in my sleep its so easy. 

Yes, I'm sure it's when the hydroboost started acting weird. It probably sent something downstream to the box. I'll look at rebuilding it, but it is getting up there in mileage. Might be best to get all new bearings and everything in it.

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Not much in a sagnaw steering box.

image.png

 

There are only 3 bearings in a sagnaw. 1 bearing on the output shaft and 2 bearings at the base of the input and the cap. Rest is all harden parts and seals that wear out. The biggest problem is the amount of sludge that will be in the box The small orifices that are part of the power valve assembly will be where the problem will be is the valve gets gummed up with sludge. 

 

image.png

Edited by Mopar1973Man

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