post brake and wheel bearing job

[william keagle]

just got done changing front brake rotor and pads.  why'll doing it found the driverside wheel bearing was bad.  strange to me because the truck always wanted go to right?  but anyway back to the problem.  the first time i hit the brakes why'll moving forward there is a clunk sound coming from the front end.  but does not do it again inless i go backwards and the first time i press the brake it does it again.  but no more until i go forward and hit the brakes again.  any ideas on this?  and yes i tightened everything to the proper torgue spec.

Edited August 19, 2017 by william keagle

[Dieselfuture]

How did you figure your wheel bearing was bad, did it turn hard or sloppy. Did you change it then, 

[william keagle]

it was sloppy when i spun it.  kinda wiggled around a little.  the passenger side spun true no wiggle.

[Dieselfuture]

The only I can think of on why it makes noise is caliper not in right place somehow, might want to take it appart and double check 

[dripley]

I would have to agree with @Dieselfuture. Something has to be loose. Get the wheels off and double check. No need to pull the bearings just check all the bolts. 

[SilverMoose]

maybe something in the brakes shift when you change direction

 

L8tr

D

[CTcummins24V]

Check ball joints

[Mopar1973Man]

Check control arm bushings (4WD) a-arm bushings (2WD), ball joints, possibly track bar, brake caliper frame bolts... That should cover most common stuff.

[william keagle]

Well i know its not the brakes, ball joints or track bar.  They either have been replaced or double checked by someone other then me.  The sound seems like its coming right out of the rim.  If it is a control arm how do you check it for 1?  Any idea how much it cost to fix for the other?

[IBMobile]

 All you replaced was the front brake rotors and pads.  You also replaced the left front wheel bearings, inner and outer.  You didn't have that clunk before you did this job?  So it must be some thing you removed and reinstalled. 

 

Wheel bearings make a grinding noise as they destroy themselves if in stalled wrong.  Brake calipers and mounting brackets are bolted on and tightened to a specific torque.  As long as the bolt holes are not hogged out there should be no movement.  That levees the brake pads.  I've had, on more that one occasion, brake pads that were a few thousands of an inch to small and would shift back an forth in the caliper making the noises you have described when changing direction. 

[Greenlee]

On 10/15/2017 at 8:48 PM, IBMobile said:

 All you replaced was the front brake rotors and pads.  You also replaced the left front wheel bearings, inner and outer.  You didn't have that clunk before you did this job?  So it must be some thing you removed and reinstalled. 

 

Wheel bearings make a grinding noise as they destroy themselves if in stalled wrong.  Brake calipers and mounting brackets are bolted on and tightened to a specific torque.  As long as the bolt holes are not hogged out there should be no movement.  That levees the brake pads.  I've had, on more that one occasion, brake pads that were a few thousands of an inch to small and would shift back an forth in the caliper making the noises you have described when changing direction. 

I'm looking for information on changing the front wheel bearing on my 1998 12v 2500 2wd and saw this post. I'd like to ask you all a few questions, for one, can you replace the bearings only or is it recommended to replace the wheel bearings and hub assembly as a unit? I have noticed sealed bearings on some pictures and tapered or cone bearings on other pictures I have looked at. I want to get the low down before I try and get it all apart. Difficulty getting up and down I am hoping I can save some money and do this myself. The last time I changed out wheel bearing or repacked wheel bearing was 35 years ago and once you learned not to fill the hub void with grease (after you think you packed the bearings) for a little extra protection and the neighbor walks over and has a good laugh telling you that it's not the first time he has seen someone pack bearings like that. Of course it all has to come back out and redone the right way. I couldn't believe that front wheel bearing could be sealed bearings. My Dad drove a 1975 Cadillac and the wheel bearing were packed every oil change (USMC and done on base), seems over board but the first failure was at 350,000 miles it makes me realize they don't make like that anymore.

So without rambling on more can someone please help me with this? Thanks

[Haggar]

Green,

 

I am not sure on yours, but my year the 4wd and 2wd have a pre packaged bearing/spindle unit.  I am "thinking" on your truck though, you have the "old style" individual tapered rollers.  ( that is all I see for the 99 dodge 2wd on rock autos site.  the 4wd shows a hub unit.)

 

They work pretty well.  I think a lot of the pre packaged stuff came along as anti lock braking became more technologically advanced, and the tone rings and sensors could not stand to be in the weather.   I have quite a few vehicles that the bearing units have lived well north of 200,000.   In fact I am pretty certain (will have to check records..) but my '99 suburban with 378k is still on its original wheel bearings, though my '94 I replaced them at about 175k.   

 

HTH

Hag

[Greenlee]

2 hours ago, Haggar said:

Green,

 

I am not sure on yours, but my year the 4wd and 2wd have a pre packaged bearing/spindle unit.  I am "thinking" on your truck though, you have the "old style" individual tapered rollers.  ( that is all I see for the 99 dodge 2wd on rock autos site.  the 4wd shows a hub unit.)

 

They work pretty well.  I think a lot of the pre packaged stuff came along as anti lock braking became more technologically advanced, and the tone rings and sensors could not stand to be in the weather.   I have quite a few vehicles that the bearing units have lived well north of 200,000.   In fact I am pretty certain (will have to check records..) but my '99 suburban with 378k is still on its original wheel bearings, though my '94 I replaced them at about 175k.   

 

HTH

Hag

Thanks Green, I have been trying to figure this out for several days, Your information is right on the money. I just got off the phone with Advanced Auto Parts and they said I have replacement bearings since mine is a 2wd. I'm going with the store brand on bearings since everything else has to be ordered and I'm looking at a 20 year old truck that looks decent on the interior with the exception of the dash core being broke out in several places. I don't drive more than 6,000 to 8,000 miles a year anyway. I can at least tackle this job with a little help and get it back up and going. I have new injectors, DVs, 4K springs, AFC kit from Power Driven Diesel, and a full set of gauges that have been sitting around for a couple of years now that I had planned to install. The wheel bearings will be a walk in the park compared to everything else. This will be a good fix that isn't too complicated for an old man to take care of.

Just wanted to say that wheel bearing will go a long ways as long as you keep them repacked before you start to hear them, don't know how many miles you should repack them but I will say that on my Dad's car it wasn't the front wheel bearing but the rear drivers side bearing in the axle that went first. No telling how long the front ones made it to just like your vehicles, that's a pile of miles but apparently you do good maintenance on what you drive.