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Shifting on a built 47RE


pepsi71ocean

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Hey Dynamic,

 

I had spoken to you over the phone the other day and I wanted to start a thread here while I was thinking about it.

After we got off the phone I went and turned down the DTT voltage Regulator to 4.409v (it was set to 4.779v) and I noticed that the truck doesn't lock up as quickly now, however the truck still likes to hover around in 3rd gear. A good example, I am driving around at 35-40mph. And then say I have to slow down down to 25-30mph, the truck will stay in 3rd locked, even after I push down on the pedal to to accelerate.  Now empty is fine, towing a 10K trailer, it stays in 3rd, and still decided to try and accelerate locked at 1,100rpms, but a shift to manual 2, and it goes up to 1,600 ish and takes off just fine. I then came to a traffic light where I took the turn purposefully at about 20mph and the truck continued to hold 3rd but it was unlocked, (after shifting to "2") the smoke cleared right up, engine rpm's went from 1,100 locked, to 1,700 unlocked. 

 

I'm unsure if I need to test the line pressures, or if the line pressure is holding the transmission in 3rd gear way to long, because she doesn't want to shift unless i really stand on it.  I don't know if there is a way to get the truck to unlock and run in 3rd, although I don't think that it is a good idea to floog the truck around in 3rd at a traffic light when It should be in 2nd for example.  I also notice that the truck does this, but I'd like to have the ability for it to shift(or i could run it in 2nd locked up perhaps). I do believe that DTT said I could have it locked in 1st or 2nd, but I'm not sure if that is wise with a lock up switch in the 2 or 1 position.
 

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It sounds like, for whatever reason, you're not getting a 3-2 downshift at the right time. Not knowing what all was done to the valve body, it would be tough to say exactly what is causing it, but I would suspect something with the part throttle portion of the valve body. Unless I have the valve body here in front of me, it's tough to really even speculate. Like I said on the phone, the best thing to do with that voltage regulator would be to take it off and throw it away...

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On 9/25/2017 at 11:24 AM, Dynamic said:

It sounds like, for whatever reason, you're not getting a 3-2 downshift at the right time. Not knowing what all was done to the valve body, it would be tough to say exactly what is causing it, but I would suspect something with the part throttle portion of the valve body. Unless I have the valve body here in front of me, it's tough to really even speculate. Like I said on the phone, the best thing to do with that voltage regulator would be to take it off and throw it away...

 

Correct, I have done enough testing over the last week to confirm this. But I was not sure if the 3-2 downshift is controlled by springs/hydraulics or by the TV cable, or what not. I do realize that the pedal is on the idle validation, and the TV at an idle as well

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5 minutes ago, Dynamic said:

The 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts, as well as 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts are all controlled by springs and hydraulics, of which the TV circuit is a BIG part...as is the governor circuit and, at a certain point, the detent circuit.


Now my TV cable is set 1:1 with the apps. The cable doesn't move until the engine rpms start moving. And the TV cable is about tight with the top of the APPS range. Doesn't this sound correct?

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On 10/3/2017 at 10:21 AM, Dynamic said:

At what rpm is your WOT 1-2 shift occurring?

 

@Dynamic Here is a list of shift points based on multiple runs The error rate is roughly 100 rpm's 

 

1-2 Shift - 25mph @  3000 rpm

2-3 Shift - 42mph @  2900 rpm

3-4 Shift - 65mph @  3000 rpm

4th to TC Lock 4th - 75mph @ 2,500 rpm

I shot a video for you, but of course Like and idiot I left the window cracked enough that my Bluetooth was useless. So I'll shoot another one tomorrow. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

It looks like your WOT 2-3 upshift is coming in early compared to your 1-2. If I remember correctly, you're also having trouble with the 2-3 downshift not occurring properly as well. If I had to guess, I'd say that someone has modified the part-throttle portion of your valve body, but I wouldn't know unless I had the VB in front of me.

 

Your 1-2 looks like it's coming in at appx. 2900, which is about right. The 2-3 in this video came in at about 2600.

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3 minutes ago, Dynamic said:

It looks like your WOT 2-3 upshift is coming in early compared to your 1-2. If I remember correctly, you're also having trouble with the 2-3 downshift not occurring properly as well. If I had to guess, I'd say that someone has modified the part-throttle portion of your valve body, but I wouldn't know unless I had the VB in front of me.

 

Your 1-2 looks like it's coming in at appx. 2900, which is about right. The 2-3 in this video came in at about 2600.

 
Correct, the 3-2 Downshift requires major pedal movement, or easier to shift into "2". The truck loves to hover in 3rd even at 20 mph, when I believe it should be in 2nd. If I leave O/D turned on it will choose 4th gear instead of 3rd. it is quite annoying at times.


I have a fairly lengthy video showing this odd ball shifting on the upload process, YouTube quotes me about 2 hours to upload, but its only about 8 mins long.

When I get up tonight I will post it, Hopefully it will help explain what I'm trying to explain as it can be confusing.

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With light load, the transmission is going to keep grabbing gears (upshifting). But when more power is requested, it should downshift readily if conditions dictate it.

 

The one thing that comes to mind is Transgo uses a spacer to remove the functionality of one of the valves in the 2-3 upshift valve train to eliminate a possible 2-3-2-3 shuttle shift. This is not the best way to deal with that issue, and also causes issues with the part throttle 3-2 downshift. Just a thought... I have no idea what DTT did to your VB, though, without looking at it.

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5 hours ago, Dynamic said:

With light load, the transmission is going to keep grabbing gears (upshifting). But when more power is requested, it should downshift readily if conditions dictate it.

 

The one thing that comes to mind is Transgo uses a spacer to remove the functionality of one of the valves in the 2-3 upshift valve train to eliminate a possible 2-3-2-3 shuttle shift. This is not the best way to deal with that issue, and also causes issues with the part throttle 3-2 downshift. Just a thought... I have no idea what DTT did to your VB, though, without looking at it.

 

 


I'm tempted to drop the valve body and send it to you in a few weeks when its time to do some work on the truck.

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  • 1 year later...

So a little update here. After parking the truck for a while and dealing with work, I reactivated the truck only to down it again(starter died). I replaced the starter and injectors then ended up downing the truck again for major repair work. So here is what is going on.

 

My truck always had periodically stalled going into drive from neutral, but it was "accepted" as normal. In the above posts you see my real issue, well Since I raised the pop pressure the stalling is worse, but only in Drive. Extensive testing included removing the electrical connector plug, and dropping it into 2 and 1 instead of drive.

ironically raising the pop pressures did solve some of my 3-2 issues and other shifting issues, but this stalling is now I believe fully an internal issue with valves inside.

 

So after thinking about it, I have decided I will be dropping the valve body before the truck is done. I know @Mopar1973Man will be interested to know the results of this study.

With that being said @Dynamic How best can we get this accomplished, Do you want my electronics with the valve body as well, anything else that you need information wise before I do this?

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  • 4 weeks later...

@Dynamic pulled valve body today and wanted to touch base with you about sending it out to you. 

 

Also what should I do with that voltage regulator on the firewall? It's still hooked into my wiring harness for the time being?

 

What do you think about these photos of the transmission? 

 

I'm just confused by all of this soot that exists in the transmission and valve body. Last fluid and band adjustment was about 12,500 miles ago

 

KIMG1196.JPG.373f5b45ac73cf2c6631df12bcaa3dda.JPG

 

KIMG1198.JPG.c0eed3fd6aa83cad3a442dbdeb79fa8c.JPG

 

KIMG1200.JPG.8a05beb4e370b52ef40693720b62d6cb.JPG

 

KIMG1202.JPG.483c1b4e8bac9055279f861b5aee2b9e.JPG

 

KIMG1201.JPG.585bb4395af68338bc59f08da691c119.JPG

 

KIMG1204.JPG.f3057d82ffc5ea86e29573bc6fee1a1c.JPG

 

KIMG1197.JPG.c7ff84f234f96001529d15a6003a8557.JPG

 

 

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You're welcome to ship it on over. I'll take a look at it.

 

Dynamic Transmission

8311 N. Glenarvon Ln.

Newman Lake, WA 99025

 

From everything I can see in the pictures, it looks pretty normal. There's always going to be some particulate matter generated in there.

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6 hours ago, Dynamic said:

You're welcome to ship it on over. I'll take a look at it.

 

Dynamic Transmission

8311 N. Glenarvon Ln.

Newman Lake, WA 99025

 

From everything I can see in the pictures, it looks pretty normal. There's always going to be some particulate matter generated in there.

 

Just dropped it off at the post office and it's on its way. It wasn't much more to ship it on two day vs 7 day. 

 

I put my cell number and my screen name on the label. I left the electronics on it. 

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