Valve Spring seller?

[Waydin_Stewart]

I'm looking for the best option for upgraded valve springs. I've got the air for 500-550hp and I will have the fuel whenever my buddy buys my smaller 7x.009 injectors so I can upgrade. I found Hamilton 103# and CPP 103# valve springs. The obvious choice will be the CPP for $100 cheaper. I came across this company that sells through eBay and was wondering if anyone has any experience with them. The name is StreetSportIndustries they have 103# valve springs listed for almost the same price as the crowler 110# springs. The link is http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-5-07-For-Cummins-5-9-6BT-24V-103-Upgraded-High-RPM-Valve-Spring-set-of-24-/311756186784?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 to the posting. If they are a legit company and someone can verify the springs wont break on me and are what they are listed as I will purchase them. Any money I can save I will as I've got a list of 2400+ dollars worth of parts waiting to be purchased.

[Mopar1973Man]

@jlbayes would be a good guy to talk to about this.

[jlbayes]

The cpp springs are Hamiltons. I would however not buy anything from that crook (cpp). I know nothing about the ebay springs. I know a few with the crowers set at the correct install height with no issues. I have EEP 110s in my 24v with no issues.

[Waydin_Stewart]

7 hours ago, jlbayes said:

The cpp springs are Hamiltons. I would however not buy anything from that crook (cpp). I know nothing about the ebay springs. I know a few with the crowers set at the correct install height with no issues. I have EEP 110s in my 24v with no issues.

I'm just looking for an affordable set of springs that won't put un-needed stress on my cam. I'm getting pushrods from DFI as he is local to me.

[Me78569]

@dieselautopower got me my springs,  they seem to be working well for me

[Waydin_Stewart]

6 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

@dieselautopower got me my springs,  they seem to be working well for me

Did you purchase the 104# springs for high lift cams? I'm sure I will eventually swap cams as this truck isn't going anywhere besides my driveway until it isn't safe to drive anymore. I'm asking cause I will purchase those if they will work with my stock can aswell

[jlbayes]

9 minutes ago, Waydin_Stewart said:

I'm just looking for an affordable set of springs that won't put un-needed stress on my cam. I'm getting pushrods from DFI as he is local to me.

 

Unneeded stress is a marketing tactic Hamilton employs to instill fear into the public. I have had 110s in my 24v for 5+ years with no I'll effects to the cam. As well as many others. Buy what you can afford but do not be afraid.

[Me78569]

I am running PN 24V104VS.  Stock cam no issues. 

[Waydin_Stewart]

46 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

I am running PN 24V104VS.  Stock cam no issues. 

Those are the ones marketed for higher lift cams. I will most likely get a bigger cam after I do compounds so might aswell prepare now. Okay I will be getting DFI pushrods and DAP 104# valve springs. Alongside ARP 425 studs. I don't know if there is a topic about this. Can I just do one stud at a time instead of taking the head off to replace the gasket?

[Me78569]

that's what I did.  

 

Pull one bolt, install one stud.  Rinse and repeat

[Waydin_Stewart]

22 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

that's what I did.  

 

Pull one bolt, install one stud.  Rinse and repeat

Okay so I remove one bolt, hand tighten the stud, add the nut and then what should I initially torque it down to before I move onto the next one?

[trreed]

I did 75 ft lbs to hold the head down, then 100, then 125.  Then after a week I went through again, loosened each nut completely, and retorqued to 135 ft lbs.  No issues yet. 

 

[Dieselfuture]

I think 90ft/lb is what factory bolts are

[trreed]

On 9/24/2017 at 12:49 AM, Waydin_Stewart said:

I found Hamilton 103# and CPP 103# valve springs. The obvious choice will be the CPP for $100 cheaper.

Diesel Auto Power is even cheaper than CPP for the same spring (I think it's the same)

 

[Me78569]

Install them one stud at a time according to the directions.  I dont remember exactly what was done.

[Waydin_Stewart]

4 hours ago, trreed said:

I did 75 ft lbs to hold the head down, then 100, then 125.  Then after a week I went through again, loosened each nut completely, and retorqued to 135 ft lbs.  No issues yet. 

 

Alright thanks! I will start ordering parts and getting my hands dirty. Does anyone know what the rod end that connects to be pitman arm is called? When I have someone turn the steering wheel the ball joint will move a little before catching and turning the tire? I'm getting a DOR track bar and DOR steering brace. My buddy upgraded to a dual stabilizer and is giving me his single. So I will have amazing steering again:)

[trreed]

That's the drag link. 

[015point9]

2010 post has most parts labeled. 

https://mopar1973man.com/topic/1424-dodge-ram-steeringsuspension-components/

 

[jlbayes]

Fyi aftermarket cams are nearly useless in a vp truck. I would not waste the money on one unless the cam is towing oriented.

[TFaoro]

33 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

Fyi aftermarket cams are nearly useless in a vp truck. I would not waste the money on one unless the cam is towing oriented.

^^^Listen to that. Even then, if the stock one is fine - leave it alone.