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Thinking my ddrp is taking a crap on me. Hopped in this morning and had 11 or 12 psi at idle and usually have 18 or 19. Wot is usually 12 14 now is 8 or less... Thinking that could be my power thief when I was pulling the trailer? 

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I dont know if it is your power thief or not but it could be your VP thief if left as is.

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14 minutes ago, dripley said:

I dont know if it is your power thief or not but it could be your VP thief if left as is.

That was my thoughts. Are you thinking it’s the lp? Idk what else it would be. I’ll check my records and see how old the pump is... 

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With no more evidence of a bad VP I would not condemn it. It does sound like you need to upgrade your lift pump especially if you are running the EJWA on high settings.

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Lp is 6 yrs old and has 32k miles on it! 

 

3 minutes ago, dripley said:

With no more evidence of a bad VP I would not condemn it. It does sound like you need to upgrade your lift pump especially if you are running the EJWA on high settings.

Vp or lp? As far as I know the VP is good.....

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Sorry I read that as IP not LP.  Injection vs lift.

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I don’t know if you saw it but I posted a severe lack of power when I was pulling one ton of hay on a 20 foot bumper pull. Think it’s a coincidence? 

29 minutes ago, dripley said:

With no more evidence of a bad VP I would not condemn it. It does sound like you need to upgrade your lift pump especially if you are running the EJWA on high settings.

Also the current pump is a Fass ddrp so it is a upgrade over stock pump. Also pressures have been 18 20 idle and 11 14 wot.... 

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I did see that and anything below 14 does not give max cooling to the VP. The VP and it's computer depend on it. I cant and will not say that has killed your VP at all. But always try to maintain 14 psi to the VP at minimum. I have to assume that you still using the OE fuel lines. My AD sees about 20 psi at idle and 16 at WOT. I do have 1/2" fuel lines which allows less fuel pressure drop.

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My ddrp starting losing pressure a few months back.  I took it off the truck, removed the aluminum plate and stretched the spring out around 5/8 inch. Pressures much better than stock.  I didn't realize the ddrp had the the spring and ball setup in it until I googled it.  The ball was in great shape, no flat spots at all.  This could be worth a try.  If it works you save time & cash.  I made a post about it but couldn't find it.

 

L8tr

d

 

Found it 

 

Edited by SilverMoose

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2 minutes ago, SilverMoose said:

My ddrp starting losing pressure a few months back.  I took it off the truck, removed the aluminum plate and stretched the spring out around 5/8 inch. Pressures much better than stock.  I didn't realize the ddrp had the the spring and ball setup in it until I googled it.  The ball was in great shape, no flat spots at all.  This could be worth a try.  If it works you save time & cash.  I made a post about it but couldn't find it.

 

L8tr

d

Thanks I’ll check that out! 

 

 

Injave nit drove ot at highsay speed yet since thxis started so a 70 it could and problably will be much less than 5 psi.

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9 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Thanks I’ll check that out! 

 

 

Injave nit drove ot at highsay speed yet since thxis started so a 70 it could and problably will be much less than 5 psi.

????????

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Sorry my spelling got all screwed up! ;) 

I have not drove it at highway speed yet since pressures dropped so at 70 the pressure may and problably will go below 5 psi which is really bad. I’m the case it does the trick will get parked. 

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That sounds like water hammer from the VP. What kind of gauge do you have, mechanical or electrical? Mine is mechanical and connected between the fuel filter canister and the VP. I have a needle valve installed with it barely cracked open to dampen the pulses. A snubber works also, goint to install one one these days myself.

Edited by dripley

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Have you verified gauge is working correctly?  As @dripley asked mechanical or electric gauge?  If mechanical do you have a valve or snubber?  Are the electrical connections solid?  Is the lift pump on a relay or are you using the power from the ECM? Forgive me if you have answered any of these. I might be reading too fast. 

 

L8tr

d

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4 minutes ago, SilverMoose said:

Have you verified gauge is working correctly?  As @dripley asked mechanical or electric gauge?  If mechanical do you have a valve or snubber?  Are the electrical connections solid?  Is the lift pump on a relay or are you using the power from the ECM? Forgive me if you have answered any of these. I might be reading too fast. 

 

L8tr

d

It is the Attitude monitor for guages. Connections are tight. Believe it is ecm powered. 

Something must be wacky cuz my pressure is back up to 18 at idle and won’t go below 10 wot. I’m going to drive it and be easy on it till I can get a mechanical gauge on it

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7 hours ago, trreed said:

It might be the sender going out.  Just a thought.

My thought as well. I would verify pressure with a reliable mechanical gauge.

 

L8tr

d

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Electric gauges can work too but most install them wrong and the fuel pressure sensor will fail quickly. The key to long life from fuel pressure sensors is DISTANCE! You need to relocate the electric sensor at least 5-6 feet away from the tap point. Never just install a fuel pressure sensor at the tap point even with a snubber. You still need distance. 

 

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I have the Isspro mechanical fuel gauge with the isolator

Its been working great for many years

 

 

.

Edited by GSP7

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