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So ever since I had the drop in fuel pressure which I have not mechanically tested yet my fuel economy has steadily went down since then. Have not had the chance to hand calculate yet but lie o meter says it went from 16.8 to 14.3. I picked up a tester today so I’ll be able to rest idle pressure soon. Where do I hook up the tester? 

 

The pressure went went down and then back up to 17 18 at idle and 12 13 wot. 

 

Used to be 19 20 at idle and 15 16 wot before the drop. 

 

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What do you have for a FP gauge and where do you have it tapped into the fuel line?

Depending on the type of fittings on the mechanical gauge you most likely could tap into the location where your current FP sender is and go from there.

Edited by trreed

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I’m using a Attitude monitor for guages. Tapped in at the bango bolt. I believe the mechanical is a Shrader valve... 

im completely baffled by this. When I had a ez I got a constant 15.6 15.8 with the qaud I got close to 17 and the juice kept it around 15 and never helped anything for mpg... 

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have you kept the same pressure transducer for all three tuners?

 

Do you know what fittings are on your mechanical gauge?  If it's 1/8" NPT it'll thread right into the banjo bolt.

Edited by trreed

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Well, you're gonna want to find the adapter to fit into the banjo bolt.  I'm betting the spring in your FASS is weak and may need to be taken out and checked (and maybe stretched a bit) to raise pressure again.

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Ok I have headed of this ball and spring before. How would you go about keeping all your fuel from spilling out the lines when i unhooked the pump?

I’m thinking ahead as too what pumpni will get if this one is bad...

What do you think about the airdog frrp 150 with the big line kit from thoroughbred diesel? Will it fully support 450 hp? 

Is water air separation vital for me? 

I will be running a qaud and 150 injectors soon btw. 

There is also a Fass 150 adjustable pump... 

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I cant really speak to the performance of that pump. I think it's pretty similar to @TFaoro's current lift pump that he's using to supply P7100 presource to his current 380(?) cc ppump. 

There isn't a good way to keep fuel from spilling out unless you have ball valves installed to hold the prime. But if you don't the fuel is gonna leak out. 

You would want 1/2" fuel lines from the tank to the VP with this pump, and you can run it to the stock filter to keep the water separator. 

Edited by trreed

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I use 2 clamps on my 1/2" lines and it works good. The clamps have rubber pads on them. Only works on soft lines and not the factory hard lines. 

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Use two pair of needle nose vice grips with vacuum hose pushed over their jaws to clamp fuel hose and adjust to fit hose.   I've used this setup on heater, fuel, brake and transmission hoses with no problems,     

 

 

                                                              thRZ0XNLY5.jpg.4eb16f1f47e7b309bcf54be40342e7a1.jpg

 

 

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Why isn't the stock filter good?   I have a Fuel Boss mechanical pump and push the fuel through the stock filer/water separator housing.

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16 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

Why isn't the stock filter good?   I have a Fuel Boss mechanical pump and push the fuel through the stock filer/water separator housing.

I too have the glacier diesel fuel boss. I still use the stock filter housing and fleetguard fuel filters. No issues on my end. 

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8 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Why isn't the stock filter good?   I have a Fuel Boss mechanical pump and push the fuel through the stock filer/water separator housing.

 

8 hours ago, Red Rambler said:

I too have the glacier diesel fuel boss. I still use the stock filter housing and fleetguard fuel filters. No issues on my end. 

Another member here told me the key to long lasting fuel systems is filtration which is why I said they were no good. I’m torn between Fass and Dtt now because if I feel like I need filters I’m going to get a Fass but I would also like to tr a mechanical lift pump... 

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3 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

 

Another member here told me the key to long lasting fuel systems is filtration which is why I said they were no good. I’m torn between Fass and Dtt now because if I feel like I need filters I’m going to get a Fass but I would also like to tr a mechanical lift pump... 

Just get a remote filter set up that still uses 2 filters and use factory filter for total of 3 and get mechanical pump

Edit @TFaoro what did you get for your remote filter setup, the one you made a bracket for that will outlast the truck 

Edited by Dieselfuture
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9 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Just get a remote filter set up that still uses 2 filters and use factory filter for total of 3 and get mechanical pump

Edit @TFaoro what did you get for your remote filter setup, the one you made a bracket for that will outlast the truck 

Do you have a recommendation for filter? 

 

I hand calculated my mpg last night at fill up and I averaged 12.2 mpg. Is that rotten or what? What should I be lookin at? Seems like with a Juice it would go up some? 

On 12/19/2017 at 6:47 PM, trreed said:

What do you have for a FP gauge and where do you have it tapped into the fuel line?

Depending on the type of fittings on the mechanical gauge you most likely could tap into the location where your current FP sender is and go from there.

There is no place to tap where my sender is! 

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If you still have a stock vp chances are it's getting wore out and that could be why. You also have 4.10 probably doesn't help much. Filters for remote set up I would say Fleet guard, Donaldson, Baldwin. One water separator one 2 micron filter. Need to figure out what base you'll be using first so you sizes.

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Just now, Dieselfuture said:

If you still have a stock vp chances are it's getting wore out and that could be why. You also have 4.10 probably doesn't help much. Filters for remote set up I would say Fleet guard, Donaldson, Baldwin. One water separator one 2 micron filter. Need to figure out what base you'll be using first so you sizes.

Vp was replaced like 2 or 3 yds ago and only has 15k miles on it. I’m thinking mYbe injectors cuase they are stock original ones. Driving home from work last night I felt my truck very lightly surge every few seconds. Nothing bad at all but it was there. Are these symptoms of injectors? 

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Yes pop test and flow test to see Spray pattern. If you're going through trouble getting them out you're money ahead to get a new set. If you get a new set of rv275 then you can keep your old ones as spear or core for let's say 7x10 or whatever you decide to go with. 

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I think you have seen my other thread about the turbo swap? I’m going to get 7x0.010 eventuallly so I may let these be until I get the turbo in? Like you said it’s prob not worth the time too remove and ship them for testing. 

This may have nothing to do with it but I’m seeing plenty of blue smoke on startvup around 25to 35 degrees. Problably normal... 

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