Consensus on tapped pump

[gipperkid]

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Donaldson has one of the better ratings. Like you could do a NAPA filter or WIX and the absolute rating is worse. This is why the double stacking of filters started in the 2nd Gens and then continued into 3rd and 4th Gens for the same reason. The tolerances in the common rail injectors won't tolerate the fine debris so double stacking fuel filters continues. This is why I alway keep the stock filter and always order a Big Line kit from Vulcan to keep the filter. 

 

This why I continue to keep changing the stock filter over and over again. I've tried Donaldson and Fleetguard and even AirDog filter in a 3um. Always have debris on the 10um stock fleetguard filter. 

 

Stock 10um on the left and fleetgaurd 3um on the right. Again still seeing dirt on the stock filter.

I have always thought about putting the stock filter housing back in play. I'm like everyone else. fuel line straight from FASS to the VP44. Only need the big line kit to put the stock housing back in use?

[portlandareae28]

26 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

 

I personally don't think so. 3/8" is plenty for 100 GPH. 

 

You can change the pressure spring on a DDRP to get higher pressure. 

 

To clarify also than, where all will I be changing to 3/8” fuel line?

[AH64ID]

4 minutes ago, portlandareae28 said:

 

To clarify also than, where all will I be changing to 3/8” fuel line?

 

I am not sure of the OEM size on your truck so I'll defer to a 2nd gen expert. 

 

On my truck my line to the OEM filter was 10mm (3/8) so I only had to increase the line size from the OEM filter to the CP3. 

[Mopar1973Man]

OEM is 6mm ID fuel lines.

[AH64ID]

3 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

OEM is 6mm ID fuel lines.

 

That's small. If you upgrade it I would say 3/8" all around is fine, but if the pump is still on the motor it wouldn't hurt to go 1/2" supply and 3/8" feed. With 3/8" line it takes less flow to maintain pressure, and the VP is pressure sensitive. 

[Mopar1973Man]

Only problem 3/8 has wider pressure swings than 1/2 which is much less. 3/8 typically will be 5 to 7 PSI compared to 2 to PSI swing with 1/2 inch.

[portlandareae28]

So are you thinking 1/2” the whole way mike?

[dripley]

I will leave to the experts on fuel line size. My experience with the tapped and untapped pump has been good both ways. My first 100k was pure stock. Truck pulled but very laggy at lower rpm. Put a Banks kit on at 100k, 75hp chip and tapped the pump. Enjoyed that for the next 125k and installed some RV275's. Now that was fun made a good difference. Well about 35k later the Banks took a dump amid some poor financial times and I had to run with no tuner and just the RV's. I actually got used to them and they towed and drove very well, still missed the extra power though. So 75k later I put an Edge Comp on and 50k later threw some 50hp injectors in. That was a lot fun and has been for the past 50lk. Had the quad been out there when at the time I probably would have gone that way but I dont regret what I have now. All that brings me to my current 435k. I have done it with and without a tapped pump and enjoyed both. 

 

Long story short, tapped or untapped you will like the power. Knowing what I know today I would put the quad, untapped and see how I liked it. You then can start building up, tap the pump, bigger injectors and tuning. I think if you drive around with foot on the floor all the time you are going to put alot wear and tear on everything. If you just want to use for a some fun or just to pass that pesky BMW that just want give up the left lane, go for it. You wont regret it. Tapping the pump wont tear it up but your right foot can. Just my 2 cents worth. 

[Dieselfuture]

I would do 1/2 all around and quadzilla adrenaline with v2 tuning 

[portlandareae28]

I have an edge comp box already, not tapped currently.  Truck on 5x5 untapped can hit approx 18psi of boost on a hard run, problem is fuel psi dropped to 10 on that run.  So fuel pressure needs to be addressed before anything.  But seems like it should make a little more boost than that, no?  I did look and there is no boost elbow.  It is stock air box and 4” straight exhaust (nv 5600).  Does the comp box need a boost elbow? Or if i am tapped will it fool the boost?  Sorry for so many questions but coming from the 7.3 I don’t feel I have a good grasp yet on all of this.

[notlimah]

Definitely agree, get that fuel pressure up! 

 

Also, those boost numbers sound about right for a HX with no elbow. AFAIK the edge comp does boost fool, which just means it won’t throw an overboost code. You still need an elbow for the HX before you’ll see boost above that. I’ve seen upwards of 25lbs on stock injectors, HX and running a smarty or quad xzt just an fyi.

[Dieselfuture]

I got tired of messing with my Boost elbow to get it just right so I just put a plug in place, and I'm now relying on defuel settings of Quadzilla. I was able to hit 45 or so psi with my stock hx35, which is not good for it, anything over 35psi, that was with 60 HP injectors. Make sure you have no boost leaks also I had few small ones didn't think it mattered but after putting new boots on my Boost is more responsive and higher. Also get a bhaf  instead of using Factory filter

[Marcus2000monster]

21 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Stock filter doesn't place any restriction on the fuel system at all. 12 years of rock solid 15-17 PSI between idle to WOT. All these people now pull the stock filter out because it just easier to hook up to the VP44. You lose the fuel heater that you need in northern states, you lose the WIF warning light, you lose the second filtering ability which has proven to me time and time again that the stock filter continues to pick up all the stuff Donaldson keeps passing.  People wonder why the VP44 doesn't last as long. Remember all your lubrication of all those tight tolerance parts and cooling is done strictly by the fuel. So if the fuel has fine debris in it and low lubricity you will shorten the life of the VP44.

 

10um Fleet guard on the left and the 3um Donaldson on the right. My point is if the 3um filter is so good why is a 10um filter still picking up more stuff? Make you think!

@Mopar1973Man what’s he part number of the fleet guard filter?

[Mopar1973Man]

3 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

@Mopar1973Man what’s he part number of the fleet guard filter?

 

All right here...

 

[Marcus2000monster]

3 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

All right here...

 

Thank you! 

What’s the best filter I can get for the stock canister?

[dripley]

The stock HX with stock waste gate should make about 20lbs of boost. Mine has a Banks waste gate that opens around 33lbs so can get more out of them. I used the higher the number better but that is not the casemvrom what read here but I would have to defer to those much smarter than I on the subject. I just know the HX is capable of higher numbers. The boost elbow will allow that to happen by bleeding pressure off of the stock waste gate by delaying opening.

[Mopar1973Man]

8 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

What’s the best filter I can get for the stock canister?

 

Far as I know the Fleetguard 10um is your best. 

[Marcus2000monster]

4 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Far as I know the Fleetguard 10um is your best. 

I don’t see any stock filters they’re all airdog filters am I missing something?

[Mopar1973Man]

Correct that is the AirDog cross reference I don't have a FASS list. Stock most just stick to the Fleetguard.

[Marcus2000monster]

11 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Correct that is the AirDog cross reference I don't have a FASS list. Stock most just stick to the Fleetguard.

That’s what I’m lookin for is the stock fleetguard part number.