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Hydroboost overhaul


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I ran into this last summer. The hydro boost on my 01 cab n chassis is different than like 80 percent of the rest of them most cost around 250 reman at the parts house, mine is only available thru Dodge and it's 800$ .mine took to leaking bad . I saw a kit from pirate 4x4 that advertised universal hydroboost rebuild. I tried it and be dam if 50 dollar kit didn't fix me right up. No more leaks lol thought I'd mention this one

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DF,

 

Here is who I get my kits from.  I have had great service from them.  http://piratejack.net/hydro-boost-rebuild-kits/

 

I usually get the 45 kit (but that was the only thing they had last time I ordered.)  it looks like the seals only will work for you, if your metal parts are not rusty. (on most that I have done, it looks like the kit would have worked for me.)

 

GL  HTH

 

Hag

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  • 2 years later...
On 1/19/2018 at 3:05 PM, Dieselfuture said:

Just got one coming, mine is little damp inside the cab, figured I'd rather be prepared. Been thinking about getting a kit for a while now but wasn't sure which one or kind, this made up my mind.  Thank you. @outlaw7 @Haggar

Hey, I thought I'd revive this thread.  I have the same issue where it's damp in the cab and leaking nowhere else.  Specifically, which seal(s) on the hydroboost causes fluid to seep on the inside of the cab?  Looking at a reseal kit from piratejack as well.  Any special tools needed?

 

@Haggar  I know you have knowledge on this subject too.

 

Thanks!

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Should be snap rings and circlips. The tool for these are very handy.

 

415k miles on my hydrobooster I've seen dampness only once then it stopped after changing my power steering fluid. Still using petroleum WalMart Supertech and still going. Changing my power steering fluid at 30k miles.

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13 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Should be snap rings and circlips. The tool for these are very handy.

 

415k miles on my hydrobooster I've seen dampness only once then it stopped after changing my power steering fluid. Still using petroleum WalMart Supertech and still going. Changing my power steering fluid at 30k miles.

I was wondering the same thing...maybe it could go away. It truly is just damp and not pouring in through the firewall or anything crazy. No bubbles in PS reservoir/pedal feels normal.  I just did a good flush on my system with my new Blue Top steering box.  Fluid was due to be serviced.  Long story short, I need to replace my brake light switch and don't want to replace it again if I decide/need to remove the hydroboost.  I know the switches are cheap but I'd figured I'd save the money if possible.      

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Soox,

 

This is too funny....  I pulled my Hydroboost Saturday (and steering sector Sunday.....).  Hope to have the kit here tomorrow.  So I will try and take some pictures.  I was not going to pull the rear seals you need to fix.  (let a sleeping dog lie, lay  whatever...)    I will look and see.....   The GM version used a staked actuator rod.  Getting this apart is a bit of a pain.   I will look and see if the Chrysler version is the same way.   

 

here is a generic cutaway.  The "inner seals" are around part of the input rod.  Notice the input rod "ring" that goes to the brake pedal is too big in diameter for the housing cover to come off over the "ring"  so the input rod needs to be disassembled.  Like I said, GM staked that together.  We will see how Chrysler did.

 

My leak is around the power piston.  I hope the piston is in good shape and just needs a seal.

 

Brake light switch is not affected during removal of hydroboost. 

 

I will update you guys soon.

 

Hag

hydroboost cross section.png

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I typically do a flush with engine off and the front axle lifted off the ground. 

 

route the steering gear box return to a waste bucket. NOTE: Do not use the hydro-booster return. Then plug the reservoir fitting and refill. Now go lock to lock with the engine off slowly. This action will self pump the enitre system dry and you continue to pour fluid in till the return line fluid is clean. Typically it takes about 1 gallon to flush and then refill and prime. Refill and prime is easy too. Leave the axle up. Now rehook the return line, refill and go lock to lock again till the air is push out. Let settle for a 15 minutes and check again. Top off and start chaeck again for air or foaming. Allow to settle with engine off. 

 

@Haggar could you re-write the article for the hydrobooster making a new updated article with your rebuild please?

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@Haggar Great!  Thanks!  I was under the assumption the brake switch had to be replaced whenever the rod is removed from the pedal.  I had my clutch and brake pedals completely removed so I could redo all of the plastic bushings and also clean them up.  Now my stop lamp switch isn't working correctly as a result and am sitting on the replacement waiting to go in.  Brake lights are constantly lit when I plug the harness in.  The switch isn't making contact with the pedal at rest.         

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The input rod for the hydro boost is on a pin to the side of the brake pedal arm.  The brake light switch is on a bracket sensing the front of the pedal arm.  I do hope I didn't damage mine.  after I got the hydro boost out I noticed my brake lights on.  I am going like duh, there is nothing to push the pedal back to the rest position.  I put a bungee on the brake and pulled it up.  I hope I didn't pull it too far.:duh:

 

Hag

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I wasn't worried about when it was down...  It was the crunchy :shrug:sound when I pulled it up....  The hydro boost limited the up travel when it was connected.  Did I pull it up too far?  That is my worry.   I will know soon...  

 

Hag

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