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2002 Dodge cummins programmer


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 Haven't posted before. Just realized I've been wasting a great resource. Hope I can contribute somehow from now on.

I have a 2002 dodge 2500 cummins HO 6 speed 4x4 ref cab long bed, factory leveling kit stock truck, 290k plus miles, no mods.

Throwing codes 0500-1693

I live in southern Oklahoma and making a run to the east coast with a trailer. Fixing to leave and Speedo and cruise go out, lift pump quits, never had heat but figure I'll be needing it. So I'm trying to get them all fixed before I go. Heater is probably blocked as both lines are warm going in. fixed some leaks in the air line so doors finally working. Had a lifetime warranty on an autozone lift pump but went to O'Reilly's, got their pump, but fixin to order the FASS DDR-New draw draw-clean tank-mount pump near fuel tank. Main thing is I can't figure out the Speedo. I suspect a bad connection around the ccd or can-bus..Idk. I replaced the sensor on the rear diff. Nothing. Codes 0500 and1693 are only codes. So besides the rear diff, I'm not sure where to look. I've downloaded shop manual, which says there is no vss. Any suggestions would be welcome.

Latest thought is add a program that can read and wipe codes, add high idle, improve all around performance.

If I can get Speedo fixed that gives me cruise and odometer(fuel gauge never worked, will replace whatever's not working when tank is dropped for draw straw).

So, any suggestions on Speedo are appreciated.

Is the FASS DDR best way to go?

Programmer recommendations? (Never had one...) 

Thanks in advance to anyone even reads this.

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If you want something that does all of those things in one then you want the Smarty Touch.   I am really not a fan of the built in programming but you can use UDC pro / get a tuner to build you a tune, but that starts to get very pricey.  

 

 

The Smarty Touch tuning will limit you to ~65hp over stock.  A quadzilla or edge will get you 3x that power.

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Fass 150 titanium is what I got, complete 1/2" lines all through out, modified fuel basket with draw straw 5 from Vulcan, quadzilla Adrinalin with v2 tuning, is what I would recommend if you don't mind learning a few things. Check your wires going back to rear end sensor they rub on sway bar and short out or break, even inside wireing loom. I would not trust a lift pump from auto zone or orily, get a fuel guage if you don't have one 14psi is minimum. For reading whiping codes get obdlink.:2cents:

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Hey, sorry took so long. Just started checking for bad Speedo connection when my dog and another decided to kill each other. Broke a thumb somehow.

Anyway, mopar1973man you were right,  buddy and me found a couple bad spots. Fixing them now. He noticed that my intercooler had a leak so looking for one. He also noticed my sway bar was upside down, lol. I never noticed but knew something didn't look right. This buddy, he says the pump in tank conversion works good, plus will take care of the draw straw, fuel gauge. I've heard mixed opinions on it. It's in the right spot, fuel will keep it cool and all but have to look into kinda pressure it gives. Anyone getting good results from this method?

 

 

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I had the in tank pump conversion from Dodge many years ago. In about a year I started having problems. Turns out the pump was only putting out 5psi at idle and near 0psi under load. Unless those pumps have greatly improved I would think twice about. Vulcan performance has a Jeep Liberty fuel module that I believe will do what you want for fuel pick up and the gauge. As far as a fuel pump goes if you remain stock a DDRP could work. If you are adding a programmer, go bigger. AD or FASS or one of the mechanical pumps out there. You will be sorry if you add power with out sufficient fuel delivery.

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Thanks again dripley. Guy I know also has the fass 150 and is real happy with it. Probably go that way myself.

I checked my codes this morning and gor a few new ones. Was worried that even though I have a new lift pump (oriellys)-won't be in long) I can't prime. Can't even fill the filter housing. I fear the sock may be plugged. Checking fp tomorrow.

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You could take a shop vac put on blow and pressurize the tank a little and see if that helps. The worst time I ever had re priming my system was after a pump change. That was on my AD. It took me almost 3 hours to get fuel to the filter housing. Not sure as to why it was very stubborn that day. Never had that much trouble even after changing the VP.

 What new codes are you seeing?

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