Black Smoke - Normal? If not where to start looking?

[dripley]

2 hours ago, Ben said:

The problem with leaving the horn in place is that the system only charges to xx psi that way. I think 15 pounds. 

 

You can do it that way sure to get obvious leaks squared away. 

 

I had boots fail at 25 psi because when they swelled, they started hissing. There was a failure in the boot itself. 

 

You would be amazed at how much stock boots balloon at 25 psi. 

 

When I said it is spooky to watch this happen I wasn't kidding. 

 

 

Why can't you put more than 15 psi with it connected? My stock ones saw 33psi regularly especially towing in the hill country and mountains without issue. Never tested them that high. I test mine in the 20 psi or so range.

[Dieselfuture]

I've tested mine at 20 with all the boots on through the turbo, found some leaks fix them, then did it again at 30 PSI and found more leaks but they were really minoot. In my mind minoot leaks at low PSI like 5 is more important to fix then at 30 PSI. But all boost leaks are bad. 

Plus I don't see a problem testing boost leaks at PSI same as when you driving, so if I can reach 45 PSI and hold it there for period of time then I don't see why you couldn't test for Boost leaks at 45 PSI, yes it does look freaky how boots swell up but if you want to find all the leaks then that's the way it should be done with everything in place. 

 for example my rear bumper is also an air tank, if I put 100 PSI in there it does not leak, but if I go 130 then it will start seeping air and it will stop when it gets to around a 100.

[Ben]

I believe I mixed up air leaking through the motor with only holding xx psi. That's my mistake. 

 

I would do both methods though just to be thorough.

 

I have also seen mention of using soapy water in a spray bottle to help locate leaks when testing. 

 

 

5 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I've tested mine at 20 with all the boots on through the turbo, found some leaks fix them, then did it again at 30 PSI and found more leaks but they were really minoot. In my mind minoot leaks at low PSI like 5 is more important to fix then at 30 PSI. But all boost leaks are bad. 

Plus I don't see a problem testing boost leaks at PSI same as when you driving, so if I can reach 45 PSI and hold it there for period of time then I don't see why you couldn't test for Boost leaks at 45 PSI, yes it does look freaky how boots swell up but if you want to find all the leaks then that's the way it should be done with everything in place. 

 for example my rear bumper is also an air tank, if I put 100 PSI in there it does not leak, but if I go 130 then it will start seeping air and it will stop when it gets to around a 100.

 

I agree. 

 

 

[beren]

Soapy water in a spray bottle works for just about all gas leaks. Used it to verify no leaks in my new natural gas pipe, find tire leaks, etc.  

[leety]

Still with the black smoke.  It's not as bad as it was and I think the boost leaks that I had have all be remedied.

 

Intercooler boots replaced, valves adjusted, battery terminals upgraded/replaced, new left pump, installed new BHAF, entire intercooler system checked for leaks, the map looks to be working right.

 

Ran some fuel addictive to try to clear out legacy soot, not sure if that even did anything.

 

I still have some black smoke.  It happens just after shifting up to the next gear (NV6500 6 speed manual) if I hit the gas just after a shift.  Lots of black smoke, then once the RPM's go up the smoke stops.  Before it was all black smoke all the time.

 

There's also something that sounds a bit like a ping when going up my mountain, esp just after shifting up.

 

I'm thinking injectors may be at the end of their shelf life.

 

Any thoughts?

 

[notlimah]

I think I’d agree with you about the injectors. Although it does sound sorta normal at least the way I’m reading it but it’s hard to really tell without seeing it and also, I don’t have a manual, so purely speculating. Sounds like you’re getting smoke when you should get smoke though. Usually smoke will be the most/worst at low rpm/high tps situations.

[Mopar1973Man]

@leety what is your current mileage? Assuming stock injectors. Right? 

[leety]

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

@leety what is your current mileage? Assuming stock injectors. Right? 

Just south of 100k just got the truck (Nov 2017) fairly sure they are orriginal injectors.

[Mopar1973Man]

Even my stock injectors with 150k miles on then when I sent them to DAP for testing the lowest one was like 240 bar (3480 psi). Bottom of stock spec is 293 bar (4250 psi). Stock pop should be 310 bar (4,500psi) and maximum limit is 327 bar (4,750 psi). I would say start with fresh injectors and I bet most of that would clear up.

Edited June 24, 2018 by Mopar1973Man

[leety]

4 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Even my stock injectors with 150k miles on then when I sent them to DAP for testing the lowest one was like 240 bar. Bottom of stock spec is 293 bar. Stock pop should be 310 bar and maximum limit is 327 bar. I would say start with fresh injectors and I bet most of that would clear up.

Thanks, you're thinking what I'm thinking.

[Mopar1973Man]

You're welcome... 

[beren]

On 6/24/2018 at 1:54 AM, leety said:

 

I still have some black smoke.  It happens just after shifting up to the next gear (NV6500 6 speed manual) if I hit the gas just after a shift.  Lots of black smoke, then once the RPM's go up the smoke stops.  Before it was all black smoke all the time.

 

 

 

I've been noticing my truck is a bit smoky with the go pedal at lower RPMs right after a shift. I thought maybe it was @Mopar1973Man's econo tune… I have stock turbo and i think he has twins now… I have the same new injectors from DAP that he has though.

Edited July 11, 2018 by beren

[Mopar1973Man]

Nope... Single HX35/40 Hybrid. +75 HP injectors (7x0.0085).

 

A matter of fact I'm splitting my tune out to reach for more. I've been trying to keep all in one tune which is not possible really. Light load requires different timing than WOT or racing. Not to mention I was attempting to build a fuel map one size fit all. Nope doesn't work, some conditions give smoke most others don't smoke.

[beren]

Ah yeah hybrid. That's why I was thinking 2x. I'm working close to home now so lots more lights/stop & go vs cursing at 50-70 for an hour so maybe I just notice it more. 1k-1200rpm is just a bit smokey. I really need to get a tap for my EGT sensor so I can use your high timing tune.

[Mopar1973Man]

High timing should only be used for low cetane / cold weather. I've had to retard quite a bit as the temperatures here have started rising. The IAT temperatures are higher so the fuel ignites easy and so you don't need the timing on a hot day. My problem is my early morning startup might be 48-52*F and IAT to match for several miles. Then it gradually rises over the day then by 11am when I get down in the high desert of Ontario it now getting up to 130*F worth of IAT now I find myself changing the tune and dropping about 1-2 degree total across all the EQ sliders.  

[dripley]

I thought y'alls cold weather fuel was higher cetane?