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Lift Pump Question


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Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

@Marcus2000monster This is what I'm talking about as diesel fuel starts to gell become semi-solid its got to pull (suck) it longer distance. Pumps can push better for longer distance than they can suck or lift. Basically the parafin wax starts to clump together and thicken.

 

Image result for gelled diesel fuel

So fuel heater wasn't able to help? What  were outside temps?

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I haven't had a fuel heater for a couple of years now.  While CO doesn't have the sustained cold temps, it does get cold.  Last winter it hit -13*, I forgot my antigel, and had no gelling issues (meanwhile I have a Duramax friend who gels every time it gets remotely cold).  This winter so far, weeks of single digit temps, and still no gelling.  

Now I'm running a mechanical pump, remote filters, and still no heater.  While it is untested yet, I'm not worried in the slightest about gelling.

Edited by trreed
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I have installed the fuel boss, and very happy with it, I went with the no back up pump for simplicity sake, with all the reviews I read before installing I just did not see the reason for all the extra plumbing and I like being completely wireless.

As far as sucking all the way from the tank  , I do not think that is effecting the fuel pump performance being that the pump was designed to push and the suction part just is part of the process. The pump bring mounted lower than the tank it is basically gravity fed no matter ifyou use a sump or draw straw. so as long as their is fuel in the tank you will always have fuel at the pump.

 

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I'm running the Fuel Boss pump with a back up pump plumbed into the system but pulled the fuse for it because I've found that it isn't nesacery for starting.  It is nice for purging the fuel lines with out having to spin the Fuel Boss by cranking the engine or with a drill.  I too keep a spare belt under the back seat but still on the first belt. 

 

When I do need to purge air from the fuel system I refit the fuse, pull the relay that I installed and jumper between the relay receptacle contacts #30 and #87. This will energize the back up fuel pump which will stay running as long as the jumper is in place.

 

Because I live in an area of California that requires my truck to be emissions tested biannually with an OBD scan performed I keep the relay installed with the fuse out.  This will allow the ECM to energize the relay at pin #86, thinking it's the fuel pump, and not set the code p0230 Transfer Pump Circuit Out of Range. 

 

5a8657188d309_DSCN9785(2).JPG.6d04b74fa14e351da1821531a4f0f9c0.JPG

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22 hours ago, trreed said:

I haven't had a fuel heater for a couple of years now.  While CO doesn't have the sustained cold temps, it does get cold.  Last winter it hit -13*, I forgot my antigel, and had no gelling issues (meanwhile I have a Duramax friend who gels every time it gets remotely cold).  This winter so far, weeks of single digit temps, and still no gelling.  

Now I'm running a mechanical pump, remote filters, and still no heater.  While it is untested yet, I'm not worried in the slightest about gelling.

 

Comparing Colorado low temps to Montana is bit like the Apples and Oranges. @Marcus2000monster is a next door neighbor to me and I see cold temperatures here in Idaho but Montana holds the cold longer and deeper in the minus numbers compared to Colorado. So by the time Colorado warm up again Montana is still in the low numbers yet. Something ot consider in fuel system design. 

mt low temps.png

 

 

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I did acknowledge that CO does not have the sustained cold, but cold is cold. It's not like -13 in CO is warmer than -13 in Montana.  So my experience without a fuel heater is still accurate.  There was a week here where the high was 11*, or just above gel point.  Never had an issue.  

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7 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Comparing Colorado low temps to Montana is bit like the Apples and Oranges. @Marcus2000monster is a next door neighbor to me and I see cold temperatures here in Idaho but Montana holds the cold longer and deeper in the minus numbers compared to Colorado. So by the time Colorado warm up again Montana is still in the low numbers yet. Something ot consider in fuel system design. 

mt low temps.png

 

 

You are correct. It can be 55 In the afternoon and drop to 15 in 3 hours. That's exactly what happened last week! I do believe that a fuel heater is neccassary

20 hours ago, dripley said:

I cant knock any of the pumps. I just am not going to drill a big hole in the bottom of the tank. But thars just me.

I would tend to agree.

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4 hours ago, jlbayes said:

A fuel heater is going to do absolutely nothing for the fuel in the tank. Do whatever you want but that little tid bit negates the fuel heater in the bowl or on the lift pump.

 

Depends. If your truck is stored in a unheated shop out of the blowing cold you can start up with fuel at 35 to 40*F and start rolling in minus weather. That fuel heater will aid in returning warm fuel back to the tank. So even in my case my shop is above freezing but like tomorrow it will be minus weather in New Meadows, ID. I can leave here and make through New Meadows with fuel warming yet past 50*F as I travel the coldest area heading south. So yes a fuel heater does make a difference. 

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The heat in the head and from pressurization in the injection pump will put more temperature in the fuel than any silly little heater you put in the pump or filter housing. I park in a covered open awning. No wind block. Unless you have a webasto heater you are doing jack squat to warm the fuel mass in the tank.

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1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I can leave here and make through New Meadows with fuel warming yet past 50*F

50* in the VP? Sounds like the act of the fuel flowing through the system is creating more heat than the filter mounted heater is.

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I always looked at it as filters on fass or air dog will plug first anyway especially in morning if set outside all night if not treated to whatever temperature. And if it's fine then soon after fuel will start to warm up from engine anyway, in your case it sucks and returns to basket so it kinda short-circuits. Plus I don't like the idea of opening fuel filter housing from top and crap can fall in. I like having more room for excess not having filter housing on engine. But I suppose there are pros and cons to each. Fass does have extra ports if a guy wanted to plump heater hoses to it to keep fuel from gelling but it won't help on cold starts ether.

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3 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Would I be crazy to go with a Fass DDRP and Relocation kit and big line kit from Vulcan?

 

Do a full FASS fuel system.

 

If you do the DDRP you still need to buy two spin on filter bases and put a pre filter before the pump and then a 3 micron filter after the pump. Because stock is only 10 micron better filtration is always key to long life of the fuel system. So by the time you add that all together and the fittings and filters you might be in it for the same as a full FASS. 

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