Engine rebuild

[PilotHouse2500]

So, I got my first quote back for rebuild....erf...gut punch...Anyone have a recommendation in Minnesota for a rebuild?  The first one back from the local Cummins rebuild is $12k+....or is that about right?  Budgets need to know...

 

Sorry in advance if this has already been discussed and I could not find it in a search.

Edited February 15, 2018 by PilotHouse2500

[bjytech]

For a shop to do it with pulling and installing the motor, all genuine Cummins parts, new oil pump, water pump pistons, block and head machine work, etc it's not that far off, maybe a little high but right around $10k parts and labor is my experience doing them.

[PilotHouse2500]

FWIW, the engine is out and (for now) on the floor, but I doubt that would really be that much of the cost.  

[jlbayes]

Is the rebuild a necessity or a want? A Cummins rebuild kit is 1k. Machine work would be 1-2k depending on what all is needed. That shop is off their rocker for a 12k stock rebuild.

[PilotHouse2500]

5 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

Is the rebuild a necessity or a want? A Cummins rebuild kit is 1k. Machine work would be 1-2k depending on what all is needed. That shop is off their rocker for a 12k stock rebuild.

I guess it's a want...I'm building this beast and would like to have everything fixed up so I don't have to tear it apart again in a few years.

 

The shop is the Cummins rebuild center locally here... the engine hasn't run in 12 years...no idea it's condition except it  as literally running when they ran it out of diesel and never got back to putting the fuel system back together.

Edited February 15, 2018 by PilotHouse2500

[JAG1]

12 k is high. Have you checked their reviews on Google or Yelp? At those prices, It seems they should have a near perfect reputation.

 

Is it possible to have that engine fired up on a test stand? It should normally blow blue smoke for about 1-2 minutes when first started cold.

Edited February 15, 2018 by JAG1

[jlbayes]

Do you have access to a bore scope? If it were me I would pull the injectors and scope the cylinders. As long as no rust.....fire it up. The injection pump is more likely to be rusted than the engine at this point.

Edited February 15, 2018 by jlbayes

[PilotHouse2500]

well it IS Cummins and I know we have a premium on our stuff.  I have not fired it up, I just pulled it so i can set it on the new(er) frame this weekend so I can start to get the body figured out.  It hasn't run for at least 11 years and it DOES leak some oil, so a seal is bad someplace (could be as simple as the pan).  I do have a bore scope so I could look inside and see what I see.  I was hoping to rebuild and run for  decades...I just want to see what it would be to have the work done so I don't have any questions about the engine later in the build or after I'm driving it. That's why I've looked at an estimate for rebuild costs...and the 12K sounds HIGH!

[Dieselfuture]

I personally would not take anything to to Cummins,  especially the ones around where I am at. It seems that they hired all the retards out there. The price is ridiculously high, if you can put the motor together yourself I would find a good machine shop and spend extra money on better parts. @TFaoro might be able to point you in the right direction, as he just went through it.

[PilotHouse2500]

yah, at car (truck to me) club meeting last night I talked myself into doing the rebuild myself.  Just need a stand for it.

[PilotHouse2500]

So that being said, I did a quick search and lots of stands that SAY they can handle the 1100 pounds this thing tosses around...reviews say otherwise....any suggestions for a stand good enough to do a rebuild?

[Ben]

Jags Pro Truck Shop is in Zimmerman. 

 

They are a diesel shop. 

 

Don't know if you checked them out. 

[jlbayes]

Pilot, whatever stand you buy...use the side of the engine to mount it (engine mount bolt boss'). Do not use the bell housing. Much more stable that way.

[PilotHouse2500]

On 2/16/2018 at 1:06 PM, jlbayes said:

Pilot, whatever stand you buy...use the side of the engine to mount it (engine mount bolt boss'). Do not use the bell housing. Much more stable that way.

 

yah that's what I was reading

[PilotHouse2500]

since I've pretty much decided to do the rebuild myself, is there anything on the engine that's not needed that I can remove?  Someone, somewhere, some forum said that I could ditch the device (sorry not up on what it is) that lives on the passenger side of the block?  See picture. 

[trreed]

You're keeping the entire powertrain, right?  I'd leave that.  It's very effective at what it does.

[PilotHouse2500]

49 minutes ago, trreed said:

You're keeping the entire powertrain, right?  I'd leave that.  It's very effective at what it does.

yah...so again, forgive the ignorance....what does it do besides drip all over since I had to cut the hoses off?  I believe it to be part of the trans cooling system?  I know it's not on our drawings of the 6bt...

[Mopar1973Man]

Heat exchanger for the transmission fluid. There is 2 coolant lines and 2 ATF lines.

[trreed]

IIRC the torque converter fluid goes directly towards that heat exchanger too.  So it's fairly important.

Edited April 20, 2018 by trreed

[PilotHouse2500]

37 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Heat exchanger for the transmission fluid. There is 2 coolant lines and 2 ATF lines.

 

I'll have to look tonight, I thought only 2 lines when to this beasty

 

28 minutes ago, trreed said:

IIRC the torque converter fluid goes directly towards that heat exchanger too.  So it's fairly important.

 

converting to manual...so...

not needed for the TC...how are the manual trucks set up?