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Torque Management Solved (for FREE)


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Relatively easy fix I've been working on. All you need is an Arduino and a couple toggles to choose ring gear size. Command after x amount of pulses (it's a sin wave), cut signal from rear end, inject the correct sin wave from the Arduino, then once you slow down allow the signal to pass through again. It'll be like a $10 device, I just need a portable ociliscope to test the signal at 95mph. Hell I could even add a pot onto the board and allow you to adjust for tire size to.  It may be $20 at max after boards are made

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On ‎3‎/‎27‎/‎2018 at 5:38 PM, Natertot01 said:

If you have any questions feel free to ask

Which two wires did you jumper together? 

The BK/WT (black/white) wire, which is the ground for the starter relay and pin #6  C1 at powertrain control module when the transmission is shifted to park or neutral. 

The BR/LG (brown/light green) wire which has battery voltage from fuse #7.

The VT/BK (violet/black) wire goes from the PNP switch to the back up lights and grounds through them to the body.

 

It looks like it would be the BK/WT and VT/BK wires.  That would ground the PCM as if in park or neutral and also let you start the engine in any gear negating the park/neutral safety switch.   

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1 hour ago, IBMobile said:

Which two wires did you jumper together? 

The BK/WT (black/white) wire, which is the ground for the starter relay and pin #6  C1 at powertrain control module when the transmission is shifted to park or neutral. 

The BR/LG (brown/light green) wire which has battery voltage from fuse #7.

The VT/BK (violet/black) wire goes from the PNP switch to the back up lights and grounds through them to the body.

 

It looks like it would be the BK/WT and VT/BK wires.  That would ground the PCM as if in park or neutral and also let you start the engine in any gear negating the park/neutral safety switch.   

It was the middle pin and the top pin when plugged in. My wires were a little dirty so it was hard to tell (and its currently 1 am here), but the middle one did appear to be BK/WT. The vehicle was able to be started in any gear when the wire was jumped. After about a half hour of being hardwired it even threw a p1899 ( "Park/Neutral switch stuck in park or gear"). so if it was on a switch this problem would not arise. 

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Tapping the BK/WT wire at  pin #6 C1 at the PCM, install a switch and running it to ground will do the same thing but the code will still set.  What if you put a resistor (33 ohm 1/2 w) in line.  This works on the Mystery switch set up to keep the PCM from setting a code.

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5 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

they don't.  The communication between the pcm and ecm isn't that good.  our trucks unlock the converter for shifting to handle the issue.

 

Probably one of the reasons why auto's were more power limited in 2nd gens.

 

What controls the unlocking? Will it still unlock with the truck thinking it's in N?

Edited by AH64ID
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2 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Does the converter lock at all if it thinks it is in N?

 Looks like it.

 

On 3/27/2018 at 7:38 PM, Natertot01 said:

The truck went through the gears no problem 1-2-3-3lock-4-4lock as it would normally at all throttle positions, the lock-up switch still performed as it did before.

 

Edited by AH64ID
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4 hours ago, IBMobile said:

 

You do not need a resistor, it throws the code after about a half hour or so. you  really only need to eliminate TM for a minute or less at a time so the code will never throw. Like I said before mine was hardwired on and a switch would eliminate this problem.

And yes it still goes through all the gears like normal, nothing different.

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7 hours ago, Me78569 said:

not sure, something in the PCM mystery box.

 

Does the converter lock at all if it thinks it is in N?

 

Don't know if it will on it's own, but I've stalled my truck while in park after stepping on my lockup switch :doh:

 

@Dynamic Jon, what's your take on this?

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2 hours ago, notlimah said:

 

Don't know if it will on it's own, but I've stalled my truck while in park after stepping on my lockup switch :doh:

 

@Dynamic Jon, what's your take on this?

Yes it will on its own, I had ZERO problems with the trans shifting on its own, going in and out of lockup (ON ITS OWN), everything worked perfect AND mine was hardwired on the whole time. 

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23 hours ago, Me78569 said:

Does the converter lock at all if it thinks it is in N?

There is no way for a 47RE to "think" it's in Neutral. There is no gear selector feedback to the PCM on a 47RE.

 

The PCM unlocks the converter for the 3-4 upshift, and then relocks it after the shift. The problem is that the shift will typically complete before the converter actually unlocks, which is fine and good, but then you still get that annoying converter unlock/relock sequence after the shift is already complete.

 

EDIT: I went back and read the original post. Very interesting.I stand corrected.  I've been working on these trucks since they came out, and I had no idea the PCM monitored the Park/Neutral switch for torque management control. They added the range sensor to the 48RE in the 3rd Gen trucks, and I assumed that was when they started monitoring Park/Neutral, along with the other selector positions. Learn something new every day...

 

Yep, there it is...Connector 1, Terminal 6, Black/White wire from PNP switch to PCM.

 

I guess in my transmission-only world, I've had no reason to know this...! Cool...

Edited by Dynamic
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So has anyone else given this a shot yet? I am going to install a more permanent setup tonight.

On 3/29/2018 at 10:03 AM, IBMobile said:

Tapping the BK/WT wire at  pin #6 C1 at the PCM, install a switch and running it to ground will do the same thing but the code will still set.  What if you put a resistor (33 ohm 1/2 w) in line.  This works on the Mystery switch set up to keep the PCM from setting a code.

Running it to ground would probably be a bad idea given that the wire is connected to battery positive when the switch is on lol. 

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6 hours ago, Natertot01 said:

Running it to ground would probably be a bad idea given that the wire is connected to battery positive when the switch is on lol. 

 

I'm looking at the factory wire diagrams and I don't see that black/white wire connected to the battery but as the grounding leg of the solenoid in the starter relay.   This is why when you connected the 2 wire together the other wire was the lead (violet/black) to the back up lights and the PCM was grounding through the blubs. 

 

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