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Torque Management Solved (for FREE)


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Ah, I was looking at a different part of the wiring diagram and realized my mistake, I did not know those didn't connect that way to ground, the +12v going into the switch must be for the reverse lights . I thought it connected to both. Thank you for clearing that up, I was definitely going to check with a meter before installing everything lol. Ya looking at the plug I can see I grounded it through the lights ??? @IBMobile

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Edited by Natertot01
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1 hour ago, rogerash0 said:

Ive got a 98.5 Auto with a Comp I trans, without TM does the truck fuel harder off the line in 1st and 2nd gear or are you primarily interested in disabling it for hard boosted launches, >10psi?

I am primarily interested in boosted launches. However I can light the tires just by flooring it vs it bucking like there was no tomorrow before hand. So yes it does fuel harder off the line, none of the fuel is cut like it was previously. 

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Mine bucks like a mofo when TC tries to lock at "50 mph". I quote because my cluster is probably 8mph shy of 50 when it reads that. Its the reason I want a TC switch installed. It would be great to cure this without needing to use a TC switch full time!

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16 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

Mine bucks like a mofo when TC tries to lock at "50 mph". I quote because my cluster is probably 8mph shy of 50 when it reads that. Its the reason I want a TC switch installed. It would be great to cure this without needing to use a TC switch full time!

That is not torque management 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have not. I decided to snap the input shaft of this POS 47RE instead. It's going to stay broken until at least fall. Maybe winter. Maybe later. Or until I find a deal on a manual parts truck. I'm not giving this automatic another minute of my time or energy.

Edited by kzimmer
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20 minutes ago, kzimmer said:

I have not. I decided to snap the input shaft of this POS 47RE instead. It's going to stay broken until at least fall. Maybe winter. Maybe later. Or until I find a deal on a manual parts truck. I'm not giving this automatic another minute of my time or energy.

Just get a billet input and call it a day lol. What were you doing to break it?

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13 hours ago, kzimmer said:

I have not. I decided to snap the input shaft of this POS 47RE instead. It's going to stay broken until at least fall. Maybe winter. Maybe later. Or until I find a deal on a manual parts truck. I'm not giving this automatic another minute of my time or energy.

 

Manuals are not a guarantee either...

Image result for mopar1973man mainshaft

 

 

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  • 3 months later...

Went with a Billet shaft before it happened. Ounce of prevention and all that.. Splines are the same size, but notice the shaft thickness and bad *** tempering of what must be "un-ub-tanium" due to the $700.00 + price tag.

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  • 5 weeks later...
On 4/22/2018 at 8:26 PM, kzimmer said:

I have not. I decided to snap the input shaft of this POS 47RE instead. It's going to stay broken until at least fall. Maybe winter. Maybe later. Or until I find a deal on a manual parts truck. I'm not giving this automatic another minute of my time or energy.

 

I went with a billet input and a billet output shaft since I was told snapping either can be trouble. Also got a billet flexplate. 

 

Cost me a penny but I was told it was better then to break the pump/Bell housing if she goes.

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  • 9 months later...
  • 11 months later...
34 minutes ago, Crewpup15 said:

What does the wiring look like when you run it into the switch. I’d like to do this on my truck as well to get rid of my TM issues

 

 

 

On 3/29/2018 at 9:03 AM, IBMobile said:

Tapping the BK/WT wire at  pin #6 C1 at the PCM, install a switch and running it to ground will do the same thing but the code will still set.  What if you put a resistor (33 ohm 1/2 w) in line.  This works on the Mystery switch set up to keep the PCM from setting a code.

 

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