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5 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

As long as the grill is the only cover it will engage when the fan senses hot enough air. I've run this style of grill cover for the year with temperatures as high as 70°F outside and the fan will naturally lock on its own. 

 

Interesting; I cannot contribute to info on grill covers in summer, as I only run them in winter.

 

In winter, I find the ambient/rad air not high enough to lock the fan clutch when needed, unless there's air flowing through the center of the rad.

 

On my first gen, I remove the clutch/fan/shroud from approx Nov 1 to Apr 1, and don't run a grill cover at all.

Edited by ofelas
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2 minutes ago, ofelas said:

On my first gen, I remove the clutch/fan/shroud from approx Nov 1 to Apr 1, and don't run a grill cover at all.

 

You can pull the clutch off the same on 24V 2nd Gen. Just pull it up through the top. 

 

2 minutes ago, ofelas said:

Interesting; I cannot contribute to info on grill covers in summer, as I only run them in winter.

 

Where I live I'm in the mountain of Idaho my morning temperature here could be downright cold at zero or +10°F outside then roll on down to Ontario, OR and have daytime temperature in the 60's or 70's for a high. I found out by just being lazy and not taking them off to learn the fan will take care of the cooling just fine. 

 

Might try the fanless idea this winter and pull it off and leave the winter front off. Winter is stalled and late to start here. Temperatures are cold enough just no snow or rainfall yet. Then daytime highs have been mild. 

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I like running clutchless/fanless; warmup is quicker due to no air flow over the block, and vent heat is maintained nicely.

 

I run about 200f in GA summer, and about 190f in Canuck winter.

 

I do know folks who tow medium loads fanless, they are comfortable running 220-225f.

 

The heater core in winter makes for a nice added system heat removal point.

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On 11/18/2018 at 5:56 AM, NIsaacs said:

Hoopty car can't hang with the old Dodge. Towing 6.2 tons of mortar sand up a 5% grade, 6th gear, Edge Juice on level 3, pulled me down to 63-64 mph then just hung in there, 26,750 lbs GCW. The next hill is 6% so that required a down shift to 5th. Sorry about the sneeze, I should have edited that out:)

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHW2uGPAVJ8

Image (13).jpg

 

That sure sounded sweet, the motor, not the sneeze.

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So the blue one is my diesel I’ve smooshed more than a few deer and hogs with the old girl... cows smacked the passenger door... but yesterday I went got the red truck to make the ol girl beautiful again... would really love to find an old power wagon body like this to replace mine with

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So I did something hilarious to mine when I ruined the fender and door.. I had tried to build an acrylic air intake box but vibration destroyed it.. the original air intake was removed by the previous owner.. I had been doing a lot of research on forced air injection and felt like mine was lacking mind you I was drinking heavily in these days so I had zero dollars... it worked amazingly tho I’d just put a lid on the bucket when it rained and bam.. it was the talk of my town for a long while.. I ended up replacing the bucket with an old pooper pot for the bedside was ceramic coated with red rim the bottom was already rotted out.. 

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Same idea. Better implementation. A good friend of mine Doug Holfelt out of Pocatello, ID use to make these fiberglass hoods, called AirBullDog Hoods. He doesn't make them anymore. The one I have was his second production unit and I've been running it for about 18 years. Air enters the two layered hood and is directed down through a hole to a custom made fiberglass lower half of the OEM intake and he retained the factory upper to use the stock filter and intake hose to the turbo. I'm not really sure if there is a great deal of ram air effect but it deffenitly gets plenty of cold air. Never dynoed or measured HP but given some of the aftermarket intakes I've seen I think it's as good or better. Plus I don't need to cover it when it rains. Ha!

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Edited by rotohead
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16 minutes ago, rotohead said:

Same idea. Better implementation. A good friend of mine Doug Holfelt out of Pocatello, ID use to make these fiberglass hoods, called AirBullDog Hoods. He doesn't make them anymore. The one I have was his second production unit and I've been running it for about 18 years. Air enters the two layered hood and is directed down through a hole to a custom made fiberglass lower half of the OEM intake and he used the factory upper to use the stock filter and intake hose to the turbo. I'm not really sure if there is a great deal of ram air effect but it deffenitly gets plenty of cold air. Never dynoed or measured HP but given some of the aftermarket intakes I've seen I think it's as good or better. Plus I don't need to cover it when it rains. Ha!

 

Definitely better I must agree mine did definitely improve the boost lag time and I’d swear it improved my fuel economy as well.. mine is also long gone been thinking bout just a scoop onthe fender instead something much more professional looking

Edited by snoogett
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Another train of thought is that the 1st, 3rd and 4th gens all have an air box right behind the headlight, and the 4th gens can even choose if they suck air from the fender or directly from the grille. So there might be a benefit to a Ram Air style intake in 2nd gens

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Not going to gain much. The only way to get true cold air is pull the head and cut the entire intake manifold off and get rid of the coolant jack in the manifold. Even with the morning temperatures at +10°F I'm still floating 60 to 62°F at the IAT. I've pulled the engine fan out and tried the factory box vs BHAF and no change. Still the same. The fact is the intercooler does an awesome job of cooling the air. It the head design that brings the warmth back. So all the intakes and mods you want to try is not going to alter that IAT read till the coolant jacket is removed. 

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3 hours ago, rotohead said:

 

By cold air I meant abundant ambient air. Isn't that the goal?

I don't know anymore, to be honest ha ha. Diesel needs hear to ignite, so for DD I think you'll benefit more from warm air, but if racing/putting a load on engine/turbo, it creates more heat then maybe cold air will help. But I still think there is a sweet temp that performs best, let's say 120 degrees. So maybe 4th gen airbox can open up to outside air if iat temps get close to 120 and if temp is low then it can suck worm air from under the hood :shrug:

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