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Injector swap


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So injectors are currently getting re-popped to 325 and I've been watching youtube vids and write up on injector swaps. Obviously everyone does it a little different but I want to make sure I get things straight for my particular situation. As far as I know I'll be pulling on stock injectors and I don't know if/when a valve lash adjustment was done. 

 

When swapping injectors do I need to remove the exhaust rocker arms? Most videos show them being removed and I'm wondering since I don't think these injectors have ever been out of the truck if that'd be a good idea in order to verify the torque spec on the rear injector hold down bolt? 

 

I want to make sure I get the order correct when installing the new injectors. Seems it should..

 

-install injector with crossover tube hole facing towards crossover tube (lubing o-ring and washer with oil or vaseline)

-make sure injector is seated, should feel/hear slight pop once seated correctly

-install crossover tube, should feel/hear slight pop, verify crossover tube is sitting flush with head (lubing o-ring with oil or vaseline)

-tighten injector hold down plate (89inlbs for both???)

-again verify crossover tubes are seated and tube is flush with head

-installed fuel lines over crossover tube (25ftlbs???)

 

Anything else??

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I stalled a set of RV 275 a couple of weeks ago an followed these.

There is no need to remove the exhaust rocker arm or the rear bolt for the injector hold down.

I put the fuel lines on finger tight then tightened the injector hold down to 89 in-lb then  I torqued the fuel lines at the injection pump and the cross over tubes to 28 ft-lb.  

 

When I adjusted the valves there were only 2 that were opened 1-2 thousandth of an inch more than specs. There were no tight valves.

 

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33 minutes ago, notlimah said:

So injectors are currently getting re-popped to 325 and I've been watching youtube vids and write up on injector swaps. Obviously everyone does it a little different but I want to make sure I get things straight for my particular situation. As far as I know I'll be pulling on stock injectors and I don't know if/when a valve lash adjustment was done. 

 

When swapping injectors do I need to remove the exhaust rocker arms? Most videos show them being removed and I'm wondering since I don't think these injectors have ever been out of the truck if that'd be a good idea in order to verify the torque spec on the rear injector hold down bolt? 

 

I want to make sure I get the order correct when installing the new injectors. Seems it should..

 

-install injector with crossover tube hole facing towards crossover tube (lubing o-ring and washer with oil or vaseline)

-make sure injector is seated, should feel/hear slight pop once seated correctly

-install crossover tube, should feel/hear slight pop, verify crossover tube is sitting flush with head (lubing o-ring with oil or vaseline)

-tighten injector hold down plate (89inlbs for both???)

-again verify crossover tubes are seated and tube is flush with head

-installed fuel lines over crossover tube (25ftlbs???)

 

Anything else??

You don’t need to take off the rocker arms. Only need acres to the injector lines and take off the valve cover. Here’s a tip. Use the short bold that you remove from the intake elbow and thread it into the top of the injector. Then use a screwdriver to pop them out. When you put them back in keep pressure on the crossover tube and rotate the injector back and forth until the tune stops sliding in. It’s a very simple process. If you need more info check this out. Yo mAy have already read it. 

 

 

 

1 minute ago, IBMobile said:

I stalled a set of RV 275 a couple of weeks ago an followed these.

There is no need to remove the exhaust rocker arm or the rear bolt for the injector hold down.

I put the fuel lines on finger tight then tightened the injector hold down to 89 in-lb then  I torqued the fuel lines at the injection pump and the cross over tubes to 28 ft-lb.  

 

When I adjusted the valves there were only 2 that were opened 1-2 thousandth of an inch more than specs. There were no tight valves.

 

Hey you stole my reply lol! I was typing it up as you replied haha!! :doh:

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To check torque on hold down bolts on the ones you're not going to be messing with you can retorque them when hold Downs for injectors are out. Same 89in/lb I went 90 can't be that picky, those bolts have a bottom out lip on them and only go in so far. Make sure you remove crossover tubes before you pull injectors out.

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Thanks fellas. I have seen both of those write ups, mainly just wanted a warm and fuzzy that my thought process was right.

 

I just like to quadrupole check the process of doing things I’ve never done, before I actually do them. Nothin drives me more crazy then thinking I’ll be done with something in a certain time, then it takes longer then expected because I didn’t know somethin. Obviously certain stuff can’t be avoided but I try my best!

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14 hours ago, dripley said:

I know it is mentioned above but I will say it again, snug or finger tighten the the fuel lines BEFORE tightening the injector hold downs. It is simple step but easily over looked.

That’s something I didn’t do when I did my injectors. What happens if you don’t do that?

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First time I did injector work I created a nasty random miss. No external leak and a random hard start. After talking to some of the guys found out I installed then wrong. So I re-did my install exactly the way I was told basically install and tighten the crossover and then tighten the injector hold down. Now I got a good seal on the crossover tube. Before the injector was clamped in the head BEFORE the crossover tube was tightened so the injector won't self-align to the crossover tube so there is a poor seal between the crossover tube and the injector and the leak is just blown in the return rail back to the tank.

 

Image result for mopar1973man injectors crossover tubes

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