Jump to content
  • Welcome Guest To Mopar1973Man.Com

    We are a Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel forum. We are very friendly and helpful group of Dodge Ram Cummins owners. We will try to keep your truck running the best we can and provide information for diagnostics, repairs and even guide you on the best replacement parts to use. 

     

    Registration is free. Registering on the site will provide access to many more things like...
     

    • Contribute to the Forum being able to ask questions and get support for your Dodge Ram Cummins.
    • Contribute to Article Database adding your ideas and suggestions.
    • Classified Ads posted by the members. Post up your used parts and vehicles.
    • Member Garage where you can proudly display your vehicles and modifications that you have done to them.
    • Download files, documents, and Quadzilla Adrenaline tunes for your truck.
    • 911 Support Network. We've got a group of members will to aid you if your truck breaks down on the road.
    • Reduced Advertisements displayed to you.

Recommended Posts

My exhaust manifold is cracked. How hard are they to replace?  Where is the best place to get one? I will go back with stock , unless that is not a good idea.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Agreed.  Stock.  

As for getting it off, I would definitely soak the turbo mounting bolts in PB Blaster a few days before attempting to remove them.  And the manifold bolts I'd soak in PB Blaster as well and then attempt to remove them when the motor is a touch warm (120* or so)

Edited by trreed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Don't use a wrench or a ratchet. If you can use an impact gun. Better chances of shocking it loose with impact than pulling torque on an already rusted fastener. I agree lots of PB blaster for a couple of days soaking. Block Heater is good for holding the temp up for you around 100-110*F.

Edited by Mopar1973Man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ordered it from Rockauto,. $121.00 with all gaskets and bolts.   Thanks for the reply.  Will I have to separate the turbo from the exhaust pipe to get it out?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can drill and tap it for your EGT gauge before ever installing it.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If mine ever cracks I'll likely replace it with a 3 piece simply to avoid it ever cracking again and because the come pre-drilled.  Thats me saying that now though...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, KATOOM said:

If mine ever cracks I'll likely replace it with a 3 piece simply to avoid it ever cracking again and because the come pre-drilled.  Thats me saying that now though...

I would go with stainless steel like  @jlbayes recommended 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Still RockAuto at $125 got that beat...

 

Oem vs dorman. I haven’t been impressed with dorman in the past. Then again his OEM did crack

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, CTcummins24V said:

Then again his OEM did crack

 

Typically guys without pyrometer gauges end up with cracked manifolds. Here I am with 340k miles and OEM manifold no issues. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Everything is breakable.  It all boils down to the strength of the material being used (in this case quality of the cast and wall thickness), and use.  Guys who drive hard and shut the truck down right away will eventually see cracks due to excessive latent heat.  Guys who let the truck cool to 300-350* will usually see a longer service life.  

That being said, I don't like Dorman parts either.  In my experience, they are usually made cheaply and perform cheaply. 

Edited by trreed
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, trreed said:

Everything is breakable.  It all boils down to the strength of the material being used (in this case quality of the cast and wall thickness), and use.  Guys who drive hard and shut the truck down right away will see cracks due to heat cycling.  Guys who let the truck cool to 300-350* will usually see a longer service life.  

That being said, I don't like Dorman parts either.  In my experience, they are usually made cheaply and perform cheaply. 

 

Some of us are even smarter... Look at the turbo timer EGT setting.

Capture+_2018-04-20-08-52-55.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I do have gauges,  I do tow heavy 15000# rv, case 580 backhoe,. I never let the EGT get over 1200 to 1300, usually around 1000-1100 towing

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Haha you guys are funny I'm sitting mine to 273 then I'll be the smartest oh wait what if someone sets theirs to 272 :think:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, trreed said:

Everything is breakable.  It all boils down to the strength of the material being used (in this case quality of the cast and wall thickness), and use.  Guys who drive hard and shut the truck down right away will eventually see cracks due to excessive latent heat.  Guys who let the truck cool to 300-350* will usually see a longer service life.  

That being said, I don't like Dorman parts either.  In my experience, they are usually made cheaply and perform cheaply. 

 

Agreed everything is breakable and quality is generally the main variable why things do.

But over the many years I've always understood exhaust manifold cracking was nothing to do with shut down temperatures but rather because of high EGT's while pulling up hills and then going downhill off the throttle which rapidly cools the exhaust temperatures.  So that said, Its been suggested that people with exhaust brakes experience less manifold cracking problems simply because the exhaust brake keeps the EGT's hotter on the downhill ride.  Less extreme hot to extreme cool temperature fluctuations means less cracking. :thumbup2:

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got my manifold from Rockauto, can anyone tell me what the plate is for?  Mine don't have this.

IMG_20180424_124304.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×