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What is the best way to delete the grid heater and do the wiring to not get any codes? I live in northern CA so I don't need them and I have a big stereo system so I want to eliminate the extra draw on the alternator and battery's. thanks

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14 hours ago, Shaun Carr--Gildea said:

What is the best way to delete the grid heater and do the wiring to not get any codes? I live in northern CA so I don't need them and I have a big stereo system so I want to eliminate the extra draw on the alternator and battery's. thanks

 

Just curious, but what makes you think you dont need them?  Or are you after airflow gain?

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Posted (edited)
11 minutes ago, KATOOM said:

but what makes you think you dont need them?

 

Waterford CA. I really doubt he'll see freezing temperatures around San Francisco / Modesto area. 

 

11 minutes ago, KATOOM said:

Or are you after airflow gain?

 

Now I know the answer here. There isn't much to gain here for air flow difference for a stock or mild modified truck. The only reason I could give is the AC noise issue for a disconnect. 

 

Edited by Mopar1973Man

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Just pull the two battery leads. Leave the solenoids alone. It will trip error codes for sure. Being your in California you in an emission state so I know and error codes is a bad thing and will fail your smog testing. Just leave the solenoids alone and no codes will be thrown.

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2 hours ago, Shaun Carr--Gildea said:

I live in CA and it doesn't get cold enough here to need them and I was looking to lower the AMP draw on the alternator and battery's

 

The amp draw is only while they are being used, and won't exceed 2 minutes after startup. 

 

But you are correct that you likely won't need them. I reprogrammed mine and they don't even come on until it's below freezing now vs the 66° OEM temperature. 

 

I am about to go pull mine out for the summer and put my spacer in. 

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Hmmm.....  I also live in CA, but I feel the service the grid heater system provides is worth keeping it intact.  That it unless you live where the ambient temperatures never dip below 60*.

 

Just because your truck starts in cold temperatures without the grid heater doesnt mean a functioning grid heater isnt helping reduce fuel wash and injector buildup while the intake temperatures are down.  Just thinking out loud. :thumbup2:

 

 

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The ISB is rated to start down to 10°F without any starting aids, which includes the grid heater. 

 

It starts to make a small difference around 20-25°F, above that it's 100% emissions based and doesn't do much of anything. 

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I disconnected the grid heaters just before this trip and the coldest start was in Wiggins, CO at 32°F.  The engine started up, some white smoke and loopy idle for 20 seconds then every thing was fine. 

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I like to start my truck and walk in the house to put my shoes on when its cooler outside.  (Yes, "cooler" is perspective to where you live)

Nonetheless, this mere couple minutes of idle time gives the oil the opportunity to move fully about the engine, and makes my truck clearly happier when driving away.  Without the grid heater working I would know that there is nothing to help optimize combustion, and would give me reason for concern.  But hey...to each is own, right?

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Is a grid heat needed if the crankcase heater is used, I live in so calif. High desert,  My truck had the heater delete just a spacer, I sold it and put the heater back in. and I run the crankcase heater on a timer and is only activated if it gets below 32 degrees. Seem under those condition the grid heater is minimal.

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Mine are disconnected and when it got cold here in Maryland I would plug mine in for 30 to 45 minutes with great results. I dont think the engine missed the grids at all.

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19 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Typically most of us just pull the battery leads and tuck them away. 

I've always enjoyed being non-typical. Mine are on a switch.

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8 hours ago, dripley said:

Mine are disconnected and when it got cold here in Maryland I would plug mine in for 30 to 45 minutes with great results. I dont think the engine missed the grids at all.

 

Exactly what I did this last winter. When the mornings where cold I would plug in the truck when I got up in the morning by the time I got coffee and dressed for the day the truck was warmed up good. Started without a hitch.

 

10 hours ago, KATOOM said:

Just because your truck starts in cold temperatures without the grid heater doesnt mean a functioning grid heater isnt helping reduce fuel wash and injector buildup while the intake temperatures are down.  Just thinking out loud. :thumbup2:

 

Remember the larger industrial Cummins don't even have grid heaters or glow plugs in some applications.

 

7 hours ago, AH64ID said:

I've never noticed a difference in the way the truck idles with or without a grid heater, aside from the 1 time I started it at -15° without a grid heater. 

 

Only the 2nd Gen with there crappy 16.3:1 compression ratio. I can start down in the 20's without grid heaters but that engine is not happy for the first 10 seconds. 

 

My typical startup. I fire the truck up hit the exhaust brake. This drives the EGT's above the shutdown limit of the Quadzilla (275*F) and I can remove the key from the ignition. Now while @MoparMom is getting ready for leaving the truck will idle up 1,200 RPM on the Quadzilla and warm up to 140*F and drop. After 5 minutes the engine just shuts down if we are not ready. Either way the engine has had some warmup time its above 140*F at least. and Ready for the day. 

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@Me78569 could you please remind me again your latest Flash with 374 f setting, how does that work haven't used it in a while. My brain hurts from thinking.

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9 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

My typical startup. I fire the truck up hit the exhaust brake. This drives the EGT's above the shutdown limit of the Quadzilla (275*F) and I can remove the key from the ignition. Now while @MoparMom is getting ready for leaving the truck will idle up 1,200 RPM on the Quadzilla and warm up to 140*F and drop. After 5 minutes the engine just shuts down if we are not ready. Either way the engine has had some warmup time its above 140*F at least. and Ready for the day. 

 

I kinda remember you agreeing with someone's comment about others going through too much effort to build a better mousetrap...

That hypocrisy would be real.....since anyone reading your above post needs to understand you drive a 2002.  So everything you just described would the epitome of a "better mouse trap". :lmao: 

  • Haha 1

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10 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Only the 2nd Gen with there crappy 16.3:1 compression ratio. I can start down in the 20's without grid heaters but that engine is not happy for the first 10 seconds. 

 

 

I'm only at 16.8:1, but the pilot really helps. 

 

10 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

My typical startup. I fire the truck up hit the exhaust brake. This drives the EGT's above the shutdown limit of the Quadzilla (275*F) and I can remove the key from the ignition. Now while @MoparMom is getting ready for leaving the truck will idle up 1,200 RPM on the Quadzilla and warm up to 140*F and drop. After 5 minutes the engine just shuts down if we are not ready. Either way the engine has had some warmup time its above 140*F at least. and Ready for the day. 

 

About 8-10 years ago, before I had my POS DD, I would start the truck for 3-5 minutes with the exhaust brake on. Rpms would increase to 1000.It really did help the truck warm up faster, but I was shocked at the UOA from that winter. The soot level more than doubled, and when I quit that habit the soot level returned to normal. Needless to say, I don't think using the exhaust brake on a cold motor is a good ideal. 

 

The 6.7's do it automatically, but they don't apply full closure like a mechanical brake on the 5.9's. 

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2 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

@Me78569 could you please remind me again your latest Flash with 374 f setting, how does that work haven't used it in a while. My brain hurts from thinking.

Quote

 

This flash is a one off flash that contains all the stable functions of the normal 2.7 V2 flash, but it has a built in long idle function for keeping the truck running on key off, IF and ONLY IF, EGT turbo timer is set to 374*f.  The truck will idle until coolant temps come up to whatever your warmup temp is set to, regardless of what EGT's fall to .  

 

This gives you the ablity to start the truck, key off, lock the doors, and let the truck idle, for warmup, while your keys are in your pocket.  

 

Typical if tps > 0 will kill the truck as well.  

 

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