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I have a 1998 3500 4X4 dually 24 valve fresh rebuild (3k miles) Industrial injection Hot Rod 44, Hamilton springs, 120 BD sticks, Air dog 150, Quadzilla , 5" exh. , Packbrake, DNE2 OD, NV4500, SB DD clutch, S&B intake & filter. Just installed Custom Airwerks turbo close to Silver Bullet in specs. Loaded trailer went from Boise to Portland and back and towed great. Only issue I had was too much black smoke for my liking at low end. by the time i got back the smoke was getting worse. Went through my injectors but no change ( easy to make all traffic vanish in my rear view mirror with pretty light to medium throttle . Decided that maybe turbo seals were leaking as adjusting tuner doesnt seem to do anything. Put stock turbo back on until I could get the new seal kit installed, which I did Monday after work. When I tried to start the truck I didnt hear the fuel pump cycle so I went to check my work and noticed that I had pulled the Negitive wires from the Batt. terminal Pass. side. Reinstalled cleaned tightened all terminals.  No fuel pump no gauges no screen on my Quadzilla. (pv2) Pump is good Did the odometer check with key and got 900 920 921 940 950 999 codes, let it gauge test and all gauges moved through proper ranges. All dummy lights come on and she cranks. There is one odd thing I noticed. when the key is off the WTS light comes on faintly . turn ign. on and light goes out. I can make the light clear by removing battery cables or ECM plug. Turn ignition switch on light will return until power is removed again. Maybe PCM or injection pump? I dont think it is the ECM, but I put my spare ECM on and with key pump comes on but will not stop until power is removed and WTS light and no gauges still th same. I hate these wtf just happened issues.

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Sounds like a possible ground issue. The passenger side terminal is the master ground for the ECM, PCM and VP44. Sounds like its bleeding over another circuit to make up for weak connections. You might check all your PDC fuse. The large square ones you need to test with an ohm meter just because the don't look blown out it could be cracked. Also remember there is +12V BATT lead to both ECM and PCM then a +12 KEY HOT to both to trigger them both on. So start back with your basics check for good grounds at the device socket and power as well.

 

 

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Thanks for the input and info. Sometimes it pays to stop regroup and start over. I was letting crazy side effects cloud simplicity. Walked up started to trace grounds and the first one I checked was the problem . Passenger side battery tray quick connect 10 gauge wire was not fully seated in the connector. I had not taken it apart so i didn't bother to check it before and it looked to be seated. Pushed it together and problem solved. Thanks for the help. Now if I can just get the smoke cleared up It may be driveable and ready for tow. I suspect my hot rod pump has issues. Too much black leaving stop light no matter how easy I leave or how light the tune. Has kind of a lopey miss at idle after warmup. tried both the stock turbo and my Airwerks  not  much smoke difference but noticeable egt and power difference

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I Just bought an IQuad and of course I am unable to load any tunes on the ADR1000 I plan to send it in tomorrow to get it updated but am unsure which tune to have loaded. If I have the factory tune loaded will I be able to add a custom tune like the Daily Driver? 

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13 hours ago, jerricuda said:

I plan to send it in tomorrow to get it updated but am unsure which tune to have loaded.

 

Why send it in? You can update it on your PC. You should be able to download the flash update and update the Quadzilla on your PC.

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Was able to do the flash on mama’s computer. Loaded specs for daily driver from Quadzilla website. Didn’t change smoke issue. Found a couple of loose bolts on intake plate. I plan to do a pressure test tonight to eliminate any turbo leaks. 

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Built a tester and checked system for leaks. Found a couple in places that surprised me. Really nothing major.  Biggest was on the turbo itself around the o-ring between the cartridge and aluminum housing. Not a lot that I can do about it right now. Went for test drive and still puffing night camo. I have been watching pillar gauges normally but happened to look at the turbo boost in the iquad and see that it is only showing 2 or 3 lbs. when the puller gauge shows 25-30. Went to my core engine and swapped map sensors. Instantly threw a cel. Went for a test drive and Not a lot of power as to be expected. However this one shows 0 boost and best if all no smoke. I am guessing I have two bad map sensors. One reads light boost and the other 0. I don’t have a code reader but I am betting new map should fix my problem. 

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9 hours ago, jerricuda said:

However this one shows 0 boost and best if all no smoke. I am guessing I have two bad map sensors. One reads light boost and the other 0. I don’t have a code reader but I am betting new map should fix my problem

Two sensors bad is unlikely but possible, I would be checking wiring.

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Is your pillar gauge mechanical or electric? Just went thru something very similar with a 237 code. Mine is in the wiring and a new MAP did not fix the problem. This could either way.

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Piller is mechanical both maps I have are used and give totally different symptoms. Original worked fine but truck slowly started blowing black at low acceleration while on a road trip but never threw a code.  So of coarse I went through injectors and turbo and updated my quadzilla control to the Iquad. (Needed the practice). Yesterday I did a leak check on the turbo and then decided to try the map sensor from a core engine that I bought, and it threw a cel right away but my smoke issue went away. Been a few years since the truck has seen a new one so what the heck.  I am not usually a parts changer when it comes to mechanical issues but I did a recent overhaul and figured I might as well put a couple of be sensors on now. 

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