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GSP7

4x4 spin free locking hub spindle kits

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Does anyone have a 4x4 locking /free hub/spindle kit on their truck?

 

A guy's dodge truck in the shop has the yukon free spin kit installed.

 

He said he gets better fuel mileage and he can feel the difference driving around

 

I always thought about installing one of these kits. Cant remember what brand I was looking at

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5 hours ago, CTcummins24V said:

But goodbye to $2,000

  Yeah,,, No sh*t !

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I have the Yukon kit, as does my dad on his 06. 

 

Mileage gains were negligable, but I spend most my time towing/hauling so a 5-10% gain is harder to see. 

 

It does feel much better driving around as the steering wheel takes noticably less effort. I can tell when I've left the hubs locked just by the steering wheel feel. 

 

I paid around $1500 for mine and installed them myself. Considering the cost of replacement sealed wheel bearings it's not that bad, and I can service them. 

 

I did my first service last summer at about 30K miles. Everything still looked new. 

 

2Lo is also a very handy feature. 

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On 5/4/2018 at 6:20 PM, AH64ID said:

did my first service last summer at about 30K miles. Everything still looked new

Does it use common bearings or is it special, I think I'm almost due for front hubs and kinda considering going free spin. What about abs stuff is it all incorporated. 

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29 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

What about abs stuff is it all incorporated. 

Good question I can't remember if I've ever seen the ABS sensors on the 2nd Gen kits... :think:

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Yukon has kits listed '99 and older , different kit for  2000 up trucks

 

Is 2000 the first year for front abs?

 

Glad my 99 doesnt have front abs.

Is there anyway to delete/disable all the front abs junk on the 2000 and up trucks?

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There are tone rings on the wheel hubs for 4 wheel ABS in 2000+ trucks. Yukon is not compatible with 4 wheel abs for 94-99. 

 

The bearings, seals, and even lockouts are all Dana 60 standard. The stub axles are Dana 60 but with more splines, so the the lockouts also are slightly different. 35 spline stuff is petty common these days thou. 

 

Why would you want want to disable front ABS

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9 hours ago, GSP7 said:

Is there anyway to delete/disable all the front abs junk on the 2000 and up trucks?

 

1 hour ago, AH64ID said:

Why would you want want to disable front ABS?

 

Might be because he's running oversized tires (285's) and the ABS computer has never been updated with the proper rev/mile so the system could work as its designed. 

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11 hours ago, GSP7 said:

Is there anyway to delete/disable all the front abs junk on the 2000 and up trucks?

 

NO. As the abs module is used for the speedo.

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1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

 

Might be because he's running oversized tires (285's) and the ABS computer has never been updated with the proper rev/mile so the system could work as its designed. 

Waight a minute here, are you saying if my computer is flashed for one size tire and I'm using another, then abs/brake light will come on periodically

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Posted (edited)

Possibly. Yes. 

 

All depends on how the speed signals are read and what 3 values your have from the 2 front and 1 rear sensor and how far off the signals might be plus on the automatics there is the output speed sensor that could be used too. (Not sure but possible.)

 

For me it only 1 rev/mile different for 235 to 265 rev/mile difference.

 

265 (638) and 285 (615) there is a 23 rev/mile difference.

Edited by Mopar1973Man

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If all 4 tires are the same it is very very unlikely that oversized tires will throw a code. The ABS module may not know the actual speed you're going but it won't know that. 

 

AFIK the trans sensor isn't used for speedo/ABS but rather for shifting, so it too shouldn't care. 

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28 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

AFIK the trans sensor isn't used for speedo/ABS but rather for shifting, so it too shouldn't care. 

 

Just like I found out that the Battery Temperature Sensor is used for the grid heater post-heating. Strange but true. Being the speed sensor is stored in the PCM it could be shared by the CCD Network bus. Possibly used... Maybe? :shrug:

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What I'm amazed at is after all this time we still manage to find something to talk about, to some old info to a lot new.

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So I wanted to revive this for a minute. I am wondering why no one has come up with a conversion that replaces the carrier bearing spindle with a spindle that uses a conventional, rebuildable bearing and finishes the conversion with parts we can scavenge at the junk yard or already have? There's a Ford f250 rotting in a field in a town just a few miles from me, has the ttb 50 front axle as the guy wants next to nothing for it. Maybe I'll drive out there this weekend and tow it home for the sake of tearing it down and seeing what can be done. 

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Several folks have gone to a 1 piece driveshaft to eliminate the carrier bearing. They seem to have good luck with it. I have no personal experience with one, just what I have read.

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I don't think I'll be doing anything with the cad except maybe a manual kit since I don't have the computer to lock/unlock like you guys do. I'm mostly after eliminating the unit bearing and adding some hubs to reduce rotating mass

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Sure but there has to be something to tell the vacuum when to apply/not apply. This usually takes a button and a transfer case control module. In any event I don't have vacuum, I ditched the dodge style power steering pump in favor of a pump that moves enough fluid to run hydraulic equipment when I need it.

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Switch.PNG.c0032be2ba1e600746d8f1fb764dc181.PNG

Our transfer cases use these mechanical vacuum switches.  Regardless, the Chevy transfer case would be difficult to adapt a mechanical switch into a motorized unit.

If you don't have a vacuum pump/PS pump combo, how do you use your HVAC controls? And is the replacement pump able to run the power steering and your separate circuit for your other hydraulic needs?

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I think I'm going all mechanical for the t case, cad, and hopefully hubs. That way I can unlock everything for highway driving and when snow season comes around I'll lock the hubs and be able to lock the cad and t case from inside. As far as hvac controls I'm still working on that. Basically I have an app that I built for my phone. The app will communicate with a microprocessor in the can to activate zone controls, blower motor, and an electronic bypass valve. Basically you will be able to select a temperature on your phone and the microprocessor will fine tune the bypass valve so that the air coming out is the same as the temperature you selected. The code is all written I'm just debugging hardware right now. Regarding hydraulics, my brakes are hydraulic and I have power steering with hydro assist. Any other equipment will be a winch, log splitter, and hopefully soon a trailer mounted mini excavator, all of which will not be operating while the truck drives so the supply for these comes from a t installed in the line that feeds my hydroboost brakes.

JThe pump itself is this beast. It ran the 3x10" ram I had up front for full hydro steering while a guy was building me a high steer knuckle with a dodge Dana 60 knuckle without breaking a sweat.

1.jpg

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You would either have to swap out an axle that has manual everything, or find the manual axle version of what you have. 

 

Most of the spin free kits use some form of D60 stuff, but since the axles aren't all D60 it takes some adapting. 

 

Aside from a spin-free kit you're most likely stuck with a D60.. but finding one with manual hubs and real wheel bearings in good shape, and the correct pumpkin placement might prove to be more expensive than a spin free kit for the axle you have. 

 

I doubt anything on a TTB axle would work, and TTB's are cheap because they are unwanted junk. 

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I've read several writeups about putting the ttb 50 outside c's and everything from there out on a 60 but I have a custom made passenger side steering knuckle with a high mounted steering arm so I don't want to swap out the c's. I'm hoping I can do some modification to the 50 spindles and get them to fit my knuckles. I aim to try this weekend I'll let you know. 

 

As far as the cad there are numerous vendors that sell a cable operated manual kit for the cad 60's so that's what I'll do there. Check the sig, adapting is what I do best hehe.

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2 hours ago, Scottfunk said:

Check the sig, adapting is what I do best hehe.

How do you get a way having 4 link on the street, it's illegal around here, but most cops don't know that themselves. So maybe that's how lol.

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