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Have any of you changed your metal heater exchange coolant lines that run under the exhaust manifold to make more room for the 3 piece exhaust manifold? See attached pic of where I am pointing to. The piping is really tight and close to it. I can only adjust it a little and the new turbo blanket will help with the heat to them. I was thinking of changing them somehow and was wondering if anyone has done this mod?

 

Thanks!!

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Edited by mopar440cu
Better wording

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This is why I am asking. The new turbo wont bolt down all the way due to the transmission cooling line I am pointing to. The metal tubing is lodged between it and the exhaust manifold and it will not bend. Can I simply cut the metal tube at the front of the motor and at the back where it goes into the cooler and add a hose in between the cuts to give more play. This way I can move it away from the exhaust manifold also, which I think would be a good idea. What do you all think?

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7 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Heater core line. Looks like your manifold blanket is displacing the line.

No, the blanket can move out of the way with no issue. Its the line itself hitting the manifold and turbo. When I originally installed the 3 piece years ago it was always a tight fit. Now its worse with the bigger turbo. Its hard to get a good shot due to its down pouring with wind and took a couple quick pics not to get water in anything. 

1 minute ago, Silverdodge said:

On my truck the line touches the turbo 

Really??  I thought it was just my luck. :doh: LOL  Do you have a aftermarket exhaust manifold? My other trucks that have stock ones dont touch. Its worse with the new turbo, that's why I was considering moving the line or simply putting 5/8" heater hose on instead.

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After going out and looking at my truck and comparing the picture to what I'm looking at that compressor housing has to HUGE. If the heater core line is bolted down in stock placement there isn't much you can do other than possibly dent the line where the compressor housing would hit. 

 

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9 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

After going out and looking at my truck and comparing the picture to what I'm looking at that compressor housing has to HUGE. If the heater core line is bolted down in stock placement there isn't much you can do other than possibly dent the line where the compressor housing would hit. 

 

Thanks Mike!!

I attached a photo side by side comparison of the turbo's.

As for the heater exchange lines they were unbolted and bolted to test for fit. Nope did not help. I still think I could just simply change out the lines to 5/8" heater hose rubber ones and reroute it away from the manifold?? Its worth a shot. I think I saw someone do it somewhere on another site, but not sure. I read so much stuff and on different sites its hard to remember where you saw articles. LOL  There is always a way to skin a cat, as they say. 

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The SXE turbos have a larger A/R ratio on the compressor housing.  Part of the difference between the SXE and SX3 lines.  

When I had a single 62 SXE, the heater core line was very tight under the manifold..... but then again, I have a manual.  I think the auto's hard lines are routed differently due to the block mounted heat exchanger.   What may work for you is to modify the stock line to run above the manifold, bolt to a manifold mounting bolt, and use rubber to get to the heater core.

This is the best I can find of what I'm describing.  Look between the turbo and the valve cover, there's the rerouted heater core line

0001700_compound-turbos-twin-turbos-for-dodge-59-cummins-build-your-kit-1994-2007.jpg.182c3ff3314dfd987aef460f08f09bbc.jpg

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1 hour ago, trreed said:

The SXE turbos have a larger A/R ratio on the compressor housing.  Part of the difference between the SXE and SX3 lines.  

When I had a single 62 SXE, the heater core line was very tight under the manifold..... but then again, I have a manual.  I think the auto's hard lines are routed differently due to the block mounted heat exchanger.   What may work for you is to modify the stock line to run above the manifold, bolt to a manifold mounting bolt, and use rubber to get to the heater core.

This is the best I can find of what I'm describing.  Look between the turbo and the valve cover, there's the rerouted heater core line

0001700_compound-turbos-twin-turbos-for-dodge-59-cummins-build-your-kit-1994-2007.jpg.182c3ff3314dfd987aef460f08f09bbc.jpg

Very nice Motor!!:drool: 

That being said, I will try that as soon as it stops raining here. Its under one of my pole barns, but the dang wind is whipping the rain side ways. Lovely Florida weather, its either Hotter than the gate hinges of Hell or its raining and hot. LOL:cookoo::lmao:

  • Haha 1

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Double checking... I still think your heater core link is displaced or install wrong. 

 

As you can see my line is back towards the block from the oil plug on the filter head. 

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9 hours ago, mopar440cu said:

No, the blanket can move out of the way with no issue. Its the line itself hitting the manifold and turbo. When I originally installed the 3 piece years ago it was always a tight fit. Now its worse with the bigger turbo. Its hard to get a good shot due to its down pouring with wind and took a couple quick pics not to get water in anything. 

Really??  I thought it was just my luck. :doh: LOL  Do you have a aftermarket exhaust manifold? My other trucks that have stock ones dont touch. Its worse with the new turbo, that's why I was considering moving the line or simply putting 5/8" heater hose on instead.

Yep ats 3 piece

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53 minutes ago, Silverdodge said:

Yep ats 3 piece

 

53 minutes ago, Silverdodge said:

Yep ats 3 piece

Well I replaced both lines in question with the heater hose, but still have yet another problem. The oil return line won’t work with the bends in it. I am running out of day light, but thinking if I could cut a piece out and splice in another 3/4” hose that would solve a little of the problem. However the adjustable rod is still real tight and might hit. Lord it’s been a domino effect. I’m not even mentioning the downpipe problem. 

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Double checking... I still think your heater core link is displaced or install wrong. 

 

As you can see my line is back towards the block from the oil plug on the filter head. 

DSCF4401.JPG

 

DSCF4402.JPG

Nope, it’s the same on the rest of my trucks that have the ATS and the lines are ran the same way on the other 3500’s I have, that are stock. I remembered it was hitting when we installed it them originally. I got that problem solved though. Thanks for sharing I appreciate any advise as always!!

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3 hours ago, Silverdodge said:

U mean oil drain

Yes, oil drain/return line. Tomayto,  tomahto, its the same to me, but I am learning. LOL:think::lmao:

 

Did you have to buy another oil drain line when installing yours or modify yours?  I just found they sell a kit and adapters to fit the S300 to the second gens.

 

Thanks!

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6 hours ago, mopar440cu said:

Yes, oil drain/return line. Tomayto,  tomahto, its the same to me, but I am learning. LOL:think::lmao:

 

Did you have to buy another oil drain line when installing yours or modify yours?  I just found they sell a kit and adapters to fit the S300 to the second gens.

 

Thanks!

Mines cut in the middle 

25 minutes ago, notlimah said:

So is this only a problem with a 3 piece exhaust and 62/68/12? Or just that turbo size?

Probably just sxe

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2 hours ago, Silverdodge said:

Mines cut in the middle 

Probably just sxe

I cut mine in the middle, but it still barely touching the rod. I hate to have the actuator not to work. Did you have clearance?

 

Thanks you!

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Actuator will still function. What may happen is that the oil drain may not seal. I doubled my drain gaskets and used red rtv and it was fine. On my second sxe, I got smart and bent the wastegate bracket so there was clearance

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This is what I am trying now. Lol Hopefully it will do until I can get a flexible one.

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Only thing that worries me about that solution is if the center section is too flat.  The oil won't drain correctly if the drain line is too flat.  I had an issue with my compounds where oil would push past the compressor wheel above 60ish psi

 

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1 hour ago, trreed said:

Only thing that worries me about that solution is if the center section is too flat.  The oil won't drain correctly if the drain line is too flat.  I had an issue with my compounds where oil would push past the compressor wheel above 60ish psi

 

Well it’s all together after another small cut of the metal tube. No leaks, but what a pain to get to the back bolt! Took it for a quick ride just to make sure there is no leaks and to test it, but wouldn’t you know a dam sheriff was clocking on my long dirt rode. Anyways, there was no leaks.

 

ttreed, if I am reading your post correctly you are saying make sure the middle pipe is going down hill like a septic line, correct?

I am going to order a different line for it, maybe the flexible one. What do you say about that or should I get a different set up with a AN/ push in O-ring  set up?

 

thanks!

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40 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

F682ACF6-28C5-4639-B4DD-11172A844A9B.jpeg

 

That's doesn't look good. Wastegate rod rubbing the oil return (I think that what I'm looking at).

It’s the only way to get the truck for use tomorrow. I’m going to replace it. That pick was before I shortened the tube more. It’s a little better, but needs to be fixed

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