Cruise control Slow to Engauge

[JAG1]

My 02 (95,000 miler) is very slow to engage after pushing the set button. My 01 (210,000 miles) on the other hand, clicks in right away every time. Any advice what to look for is greatly appreciated. 

Edited June 5, 2018 by JAG1

[dripley]

Are they not both auto's? If so weak vacuum line or fittings maybe. I need to replace all of mine. They are getting I bad shape.

[SilverMoose]

If it's an auto I would agree with @dripley .  Does your HVAC work as it should?  That would help determine if vaccuum or not unless the vaccuum pump is powerful enough or cruise and HVAC are isolated with check valves.  Or it's just a small leak near cruise that is affecting it.

 

L8tr

d

[JAG1]

Thank you all for the direction. I will check the vac lines on the cruise control and hvac items as well. Funny..... I used to know this too, but forgot. Time passes and so does memory.

[Dieselfuture]

I thought all 01 02 were electronic not vacuum

Edited June 17, 2018 by JAG1

[dripley]

Manual is fly by wire and auto is vacuum.

[IBMobile]

Both my cruise control and HVAC vent control are slow to respond.  It started doing that just after I replaced my injectors and had inadvertently knocked the vacuum hose of the pump.  Vacuum has been checked with a gauge and pump is drawing good. check valve is good and no leaks found ….yet.  I'll probably get on it in the next few days and post what I find.

[Mopar1973Man]

On 6/6/2018 at 4:14 PM, dripley said:

Manual is fly by wire and auto is vacuum.

 

This is because on the automatic transmission the cruise control still has to pull the TV cable so the vacuum method is required. On the manuals there is no other devices needing TPS movement. This why manual transmissions are fly by wire. 

[IBMobile]

   Well, I checked the vacuum system with a vacuum gauge and found that the vacuum was coming up very slowly and the vents would start to change at 6 in Hg and be fully opened at 8 in Hg. This took at least 30 seconds from start up and maximum vacuum was 10 in Hg.

   I disconnected the vacuum hose that comes from the vacuum pump at the fitting on the fire wall, installed the vacuum gauge and started the engine.   The vacuum again rose slowly but as I moved the hose around a bit the vacuum would jumped up to 28 in Hg.   So that tells me that the vacuum pump is working and there is a problem with the plumbing.

   Inspected the plastic hose and fitting to the pump and found the rubber the fitting is made from deteriorated.  The fitting is now replaced with a 3" peace of vacuum hose.  The vacuum now climbs to 28 in Hg in less than 5 seconds on start up.

   If you find one fitting that looks like this you will want to replace all the others because after 16 + years you know they'll be in bad shape too. 

  

                 

[JAG1]

On 6/6/2018 at 3:14 PM, dripley said:

Manual is fly by wire and auto is vacuum.

See it does suck to have an automatic.

 

After changing the VP44 and doing W-Ts wiring mods in the last few days it is time for a rest. Grass needs cutting.

 

Happy Fathers Day all you Diesel Dads 

Edited June 17, 2018 by JAG1

[dripley]

8 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

See it does suck to have an automatic.

Unless your cruise fails in the ECM. I lived with that for a year.

[Dieselfuture]

On 6/17/2018 at 1:06 PM, dripley said:

Unless your cruise fails in the ECM. I lived with that for a year.

That was before we got smarter about ground mods and alternators

[dripley]

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

That was before we got smarter about ground mods and alternators

That was actually over 8 years ago when my ECM failed and before I had found this place. Even then I could find no good info to work with. By far the most popular answer I could get was check your grounds. I did not their importance then as I do now, but no one believed my ECM could be bad. I thinK I was the first in history. Maybe not but let me live in my fantasy.

 

I did then go thru the disaster of an ECM rebuilder. First one did not work and matter of fact it generated a P0606 code that the OE did not. Sent it back and got another from them and it worked, except the cruise. The cruise light just stayed on all the time to taunt me. The second did however make the truck driveable agian, at least for a year orso till it crapped the bed. Ended up with a new Cummins ECM and have not looked back. I spent a lot of money on that debacle.

 

@W-T's ground mod is going to help this thing last a a lot longer. It already has as many miles on it as the OE, just hope it is still in good shape.

Edited June 19, 2018 by dripley

[JAG1]

Even though I just replaced the VP and runs nice and smooth. I'm pretty sure my truck runs even smoother after W-Ts electrical mods which I did the next day. So smooth it grabs your attention. 

[SilverMoose]

21 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Even though I just replaced the VP and runs nice and smooth. I'm pretty sure my truck runs even smoother after W-Ts electrical mods which I did the next day. So smooth it grabs your attention. 

There ain't no such thing as a smooth running 2nd gen. 

 

I know my VP44 is on it's last leg. Seems be something that has unfortunately been very popular lately 

 

L8tr

D

[JAG1]

Silver, its a smooth ruffness  

Edited June 21, 2018 by JAG1

[dripley]

12 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Silver, its a smooth ruffness  

Kind of like trying to tell someone who does not own a 2nd gen that 2 stroke actually quieted my engine. The looks on their faces is priceless

Edited June 21, 2018 by dripley

[SilverMoose]

9 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Silver, its a smooth ruffness  

I stand corrected.  I learn some much from here. 

 

L8tr

D

[JAG1]

You may stir the pot any time. No one seems to mind...... everyone likes hot soup 'round here.

Edited June 21, 2018 by JAG1