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Turn Cruise on; the ABS and Brake warnings come on.


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Hi,

Correct one problem, along comes the next.  Guess that's why these trucks are called a Labor of Love.

 

I tried to use the Cruise Control.  All it does is illuminate the ABS and Brake warning lights.

 

I know I'm not the first.

 

Leaky

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Nope.

ABS and Brake warnings remain on after Cruise Control is turn OFF. 

These warning lights remain on UNTIL I shut the truck down. 

When I start it up, the ABS and Brake warning lights are NOT on.  

If I turn on the Cruise the cycle begins again. 

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  • Owner

Typically its a speed sensor issue. 

 

If the rear sensor is having trouble then the speedometer will act goofy or jump to speed.

If it's a front sensor you may feel brake pull or odd braking. 

 

Either way, I would change up the speed sensors and get them replaced. Once an ABS light is tripped you need to cycle the key OFF and back on for the ABS module to re-test the system. Like in my case I replaced 3 set of sensors in the front and one in the rear. It turned out I had a bad tone ring on the unit bearing in the front. 

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Not opposed changing sensors.  

Since it's a $170 change-out, I checked Resistance and A/C output on each.

 

LF- 1158 ohm;  Voltage output was    .002 volts

RF- 1200 ohm;  Voltage output was 1.5 volts

 

Anyone know what A/C voltage range is please?

 

Thanks.

 

Leaky

 

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  • Owner

I don't put a whole lot of faith in ohm and AC voltage test. The only way to truly test is to replace with a known good pair of sensors. If you got a fresh set of sensor and setill having problems your next step is front unit bearings. 

 

The only way to know for sure is spend the $150 at a dealer and have then test the sensors on the DRBII tool. You need to see what the 3 sensors are reporting from a stop to rolling at highway speed and stop again. Like mine the passenger side tone wheel failed and required both unit bearing replacements. What was happening was the passenger side reported 0 MPH all the way to about 30 and start working. Then when you tried to stop when you got under 30 MPH it would fight back thinking the passenger side wheel was locked this prevented you from stopping. Rather spooky.

 

 

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On ‎7‎/‎31‎/‎2018 at 8:44 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

The only way to know for sure is spend the $150 at a dealer and have then test the sensors on the DRBII tool. You need to see what the 3 sensors are reporting from a stop to rolling at highway speed and stop again. Like mine the passenger side tone wheel failed and required both unit bearing replacements. What was happening was the passenger side reported 0 MPH all the way to about 30 and start working. Then when you tried to stop when you got under 30 MPH it would fight back thinking the passenger side wheel was locked this prevented you from stopping. Rather spooky.

Got wheel AND hub off, mine is obviously an older one when compared to your article on changing sensors. My luck.    There is no metal tab on top sensor.  Sensor is located at bottom, with 2 bolts holding it on. Have not taken 2 bolts off, but it appears I have the wrong parts.  You mention tone wheel failed.  Was it missing a tooth or what?  Mine was covered in dirt and debris.  I cleaned it up.  All teeth are present, square, no signs of physical damage.  Is this an either work or doesn't issue?  Previous owner used a red grease.  Any recommendations on type please.  Thanks. Leaky

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  • Owner
3 minutes ago, Leaky88 said:

All teeth are present, square, no signs of physical damage.  Is this an either work or doesn't issue? 

 

Well, that what I thought too. It actually the spot welds break free and the tone wheel spins or the tone wheel is too far from the sensor. Still to fix mine was to replace the right side wheel bearing to resolve the issue. 

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OK.  I'll take it one step at a time on the tone wheel.  Nothing wrong with cleaning it up I hope.  Take a look "my" sensor.  Been to a lot of websites and never once was this displayed as an option for an ABS Sensor for my truck. I'd just be happy finding a source right now. :)

IMG_4533.JPG

IMG_4534.JPG

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  • Staff
4 hours ago, Leaky88 said:

Previous owner used a red grease.  Any recommendations on type please.  Thanks. Leaky

Pennzoil 707L Red Grease was my go to for wheel bearing grease and general lubricating but now unavailable almost anywhere.   I'm now using the Sta-Plex™ Extreme Pressure Premium Red Grease which is similar to the Pennzoil grease.

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37 minutes ago, dripley said:

I did a little looking and all the sensors I saw do not look like yours in the picture.:shrug:

Thanks for looking.  It never fails for me.  I have 99 Ford Ranger with 2000 parts on it.   I saw Mikes article on changing sensors and thought "that won't take long, I'll get that done and mow the 5acres.  Grass continues to grow. :) 

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Just now, Leaky88 said:

Thanks for looking.  It never fails for me.  I have 99 Ford Ranger with 2000 parts on it.   I saw Mikes article on changing sensors and thought "that won't take long, I'll get that done and mow the 5acres.  Grass continues to grow. :) 

I just for some parts for the wife's Saturn. Got them today and the belt tensioner while the right part number is not the same one pictured and I ordered 4 packs of 15 each plastic rivets and got 4 pieces and not the 60 pieces I ordered. But I did mow the grass and ahead of that chore.

 

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UPDATE:

 

It appears a company called AIP Electronics makes these sensors.  Nothing $150 won't take care of.   Part number on Sensor proper is  KH 21A9 and a 14A9.  Initially I thought KH stood for Kelsey Hayes but that didn't wash.  During all the research I found a Sensor for a 99 3500 listed as LF ABS106 RF ABS107 by AIP.   So, I'm in the holding pattern again.  It gets better.  The starter is dead on the Zero Turn so the grass will continue to grow.

 

Leaky 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Update: 

 

Cruise Control works now, BUT  the Brake and ABS light come on intermittently.
I can put the Cruise on and it works fine. 
Then - without notice or symptoms - the Brake and ABS light will illuminate and stay on until I shut down the truck.
When the Brake and ABS light come on, the Cruise continues to work.
L and R wheel sensors have been changed as was the one in Differential.
I also cleaned and inspected the tone wheels for damage, movement, etc.
Now what?

Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Leaky

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