Track bar and front end upgrades

[dripley]

@Dieselfuture is right about that. Mine was off about a quarter turn when I last replaced it.  And it is easy to adjust. The thing that wore me installing my last one was getting it lined up. I installed the ball stud end first and then went back and forth many time adjusting the steering wheel to get the bushing lined up with hole. An extra pair of hands would have been nice.

[KATOOM]

When I installed my adjustable track bar I hung weights off the front fenders with tape and string.  The weights were positioned so that they indicated the alignment of the axle to the left or the right.  This allowed me to center it and then correct the steering wheel if necessary.

You'd be surprised how far to the side the track bar will pull the axle with just a 2" leveling kit.

[Mopar1973Man]

17 minutes ago, KATOOM said:

You'd be surprised how far to the side the track bar will pull the axle with just a 2" leveling kit.

 

No joke. I've seen this very common up here where pup's buy a cheap 2" level kit and set of 35" tires and slap them on to find out they made a train wreck out of the front axle geometry and can figure out why the truck wonders all over now.  

[Honky Whip]

Go with Moog problem solver. Check your ball joints, tie rod ends, and control arm bushings. Check your steering box for play. Replace all worn out parts. 

If you plan to do a lift in the future, go with this track bar now, and you won't regret it: http://www.dtprofab.com/DTP02100XHD-TRACBAR-KIT-94-02-STOCK-TO-4-LIFT-_p_352.html

[Seanjj]

12 hours ago, Honky Whip said:

Go with Moog problem solver. Check your ball joints, tie rod ends, and control arm bushings. Check your steering box for play. Replace all worn out parts. 

If you plan to do a lift in the future, go with this track bar now, and you won't regret it: http://www.dtprofab.com/DTP02100XHD-TRACBAR-KIT-94-02-STOCK-TO-4-LIFT-_p_352.html

I installed the DS1413 MOOG track bar . I did the ball stud end first . Then I had help from my 6 year old who turned the steering wheel for me while I lined up the bolt hole on the axle bracket.  The MOOG packaging said a higher torque ball stud but listed no torque.. I called MOOG and the guy there said it meant more durable not a higher torque on the nut . So 70 ft/lbs on ball stud and 130 ft/lbs on axle bracket bolt.  Now to track down where the rest of the play is at....

[Mopar1973Man]

6 hours ago, Seanjj said:

So 70 ft/lbs on ball stud and 130 ft/lbs on axle bracket bolt.  Now to track down where the rest of the play is at....

 

I never torque it that much. Since the ball end is tapered just need enough to seat the taper snug so it can move. Then cotter key the nut in place. The bushing end I quit running down that tight after the salt and mud sets in the bolt get rather stubborn to get back out after 200k miles.  Everything is tight but not overkill. My problem is I do get the mileage out of ball joints and track bars and normal don't change them but every 150k to 200k miles. The last one I replaced (NAPA) I tighten everything super tight and fought like hell to get it back apart. Nature's thread locker had set in. (Rust!) Then the ball stud didn't want to come out even with a 6-pound sledge and pickle fork.

[Honky Whip]

6 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I never torque it that much. Since the ball end is tapered just need enough to seat the taper snug so it can move. Then cotter key the nut in place. The bushing end I quit running down that tight after the salt and mud sets in the bolt get rather stubborn to get back out after 200k miles.  Everything is tight but not overkill. My problem is I do get the mileage out of ball joints and track bars and normal don't change them but every 150k to 200k miles. The last one I replaced (NAPA) I tighten everything super tight and fought like hell to get it back apart. Nature's thread locker had set in. (Rust!) Then the ball stud didn't want to come out even with a 6-pound sledge and pickle fork.

Mine was very stubborn, had to use a pitman arm puller to get mine loose at the frame end. Worked great.

[Mopar1973Man]

7 minutes ago, Honky Whip said:

had to use a pitman arm puller to get mine loose at the frame end.

 

Neat idea. I'll have to pick up one from HF to toss in the tool box.

[dripley]

I keep both the P A puller and a pickle fork, they both work nicely.

[BurtNasty]

To get rid of my front end play I did the tie rod ends, ball joints, and track bar. This was all over the course of a year. Most of the play was coming from the track bar and tie rod ends. I ended up going with the DOR track bar, which in hindsight was probably a little more expensive than its worth. Also it takes a while for them to ship it to you. Don't get me wrong its a good quality product but there are cheaper solutions.

Edited August 14, 2018 by BurtNasty

[Honky Whip]

34 minutes ago, BurtNasty said:

To get rid of my front end play I did the tie rod ends, ball joints, and track bar. This was all over the course of a year. Most of the play was coming from the track bar and tie rod ends. I ended up going with the DOR track bar, which in hindsight was probably a little more expensive than its worth. Also it takes a while for them to ship it to you. Don't get me wrong its a good quality product but there are cheaper solutions.

I ordered the DOR bar too. After waiting and getting the run-around for 2 months, I pulled the plug on that and went with the DT Pro Fab. Happy so far. DOR operates at the speed of smell, and getting my money refunded was like pulling teeth. There are definitely better options out there!

[Mopar1973Man]

Sorry to say DOR has had that issue for a long time.