Trouble Starting Engine - HELP

[dave110]

Understood. Most times I think too slow.

[RAD]

20 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

His may have been asked but did you scan the truck with a good quality scanner?

A good quality scanner, it’s no smarty but it seems to be a good one. Just OBD 2. Pocked it up at autozone.

 

 

its an Innova 3040 scanner

Edited October 11, 2018 by RAD

[Marcus2000monster]

Ok hmm it’s got to be fuel related. 

[RAD]

3 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Ok hmm it’s got to be fuel related. 

I hope so!! Been down since February!!

[dave110]

If I had the truck in your avatar to run I wouldn't be in a rush either. That thing is schaweeeeet!

[Dieselfuture]

8 hours ago, RAD said:

This is the one I have.

Get rid of that pos. 

If you're going to spend money on the good pump, I would almost go mechanical like fuel boss, but there are other ones out there and you can maybe live that Airtex just to prime the system, but definitely get it off ECM power. Another thing to do would be, have all your fuel lines in 1/2 inch, and I mean all, return, inside a fuel basket if you have one, ect.

[Marcus2000monster]

Agreed with @Dieselfuture. It’s worth it. If you have the money you just go through the whole fuel system and replace everything. Fuel lines Vp44 lift pump filter etc. I don’t like throwing parts at my truck but it seems to be fuel related.

[RAD]

25 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Agreed with @Dieselfuture. It’s worth it. If you have the money you just go through the whole fuel system and replace everything. Fuel lines Vp44 lift pump filter etc. I don’t like throwing parts at my truck but it seems to be fuel related.

the prices for those parts can add up very quickly. the last thing i need is to replace the IP AGAIN!!

a low pressure warning device seems to be a good investment also

[Marcus2000monster]

So it has new VP?

[dave110]

55 minutes ago, RAD said:

 

a low pressure warning device seems to be a good investment also

Trouble with most of them is they are only 5 or 7 psi lights which is already too low. Now an Isspro EV2 series gauge is programmable via a usb cable to whatever psi you want. Of course it's not the cheapest setup out there but few that I know of have had any trouble with them. I don't have the EV2 but pretty sure @Mopar1973Man does and he can tell you more. Like I said above though, it's easy  and cheap enough on your 99 to screw a hydraulic gauge into the test port on the filter housing and at least you'll know the pressure for now.

[RAD]

37 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

So it has new VP?

yes, install it right at 2 yeas ago.

16 minutes ago, dave110 said:

......5 or 7 psi lights which is already too low. Now an Isspro EV2 series g.have the EV2 but pretty sure @Mopar1973Man does and he can tell you more. Like I said above though, it's easy  and cheap enough on your 99 to screw a hydraulic gauge........ into .........filter housing and at least you'll know the pressure for now.

more good info for me once i get this thing drivable again!!

[RAD]

Never dropped below 15 when cranking.

holding steady at 17

Dipped down to 13 at 2000 roms

 

let off the pedal and it died. Tried to start it again and no lift pump.

Dipped down to 13 at 2000 roms

 

let off the pedal and it died. Tried to start it again and no lift pump.

[dave110]

Hmmmm. They will run without a LP. Not saying it's good though. That's how so many ruined VP's in the beginning. The stock Carter would die and they wouldn't know it because no body ran FP gauges back then. The truck would keep on going, sometimes for quite a while starving the VP of fuel and lubrication until it died. So it's not shutting down because the LP quits. Your wired directly to the factory harness with no relay so when the LP quits it's because it's losing it's power that is being supplied directly from the ECM. Several things are on that circuit for lack of a better word. LP power, WTS light, and most importantly a fueling signal to the PSG computer on the VP44. If you LP dies I'm guessing it's because the ECM is flaking out and basically turning off the fuel to the VP. In my experience this happens at startup though and not when the truck is running. When my ECM began to fail I had no codes to go along with it. Are you sure that ECM is OK? I would pull the LP power from somewhere else and take it off the factory harness so the ECM is not taking that draw. Even if you just hot wire it for now and put it on a switch with a relay for testing purposes. My thought is the ECM is overheating due to the draw of the LP and then quits until it cools down or something along those lines. Hope that makes sense and helps.

[Mopar1973Man]

1 hour ago, RAD said:

Never dropped below 15 when cranking.

holding steady at 17

 

Too high during cranking should be 7 to 12 PSI.

 

Normal under load should be 14 to 20 PSI. 17 PSI is OK for idling but what is it at WOT?

[Marcus2000monster]

34 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Too high during cranking should be 7 to 12 PSI.

 

Normal under load should be 14 to 20 PSI. 17 PSI is OK for idling but what is it at WOT?

Mike what’s the best way to test cranking psi? Is the short time between turn of the key and start of the truck enough to get an accurate reading? 

[RAD]

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

.......but what is it at WOT?

Shoot, I wouldn’t know where to stop, 4500????

you let me know how high and for how long, I will do it.

Dave110

i am guessing it’s ok???? Could take it back off and sent it to the same people I sent it to earlier this year or someone else????

 

i saw that FASS sells a relay/power supply pigtail kit I may get in order to get the LP off the ECM.

[Marcus2000monster]

Just get on the skinny peddle hard and record the lowest pressure reading. 

[dripley]

45 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Mike what’s the best way to test cranking psi? Is the short time between turn of the key and start of the truck enough to get an accurate reading? 

Pull the fuel pump relay and watch the gauge. The engine wont start with the relay pulled.

 

12 minutes ago, RAD said:

Shoot, I wouldn’t know where to stop, 4500????

you let me know how high and for how long, I will do it.

Dave110

i am guessing it’s ok???? Could take it back off and sent it to the same people I sent it to earlier this year or someone else????

 

i saw that FASS sells a relay/power supply pigtail kit I may get in order to get the LP off the ECM.

The WOT test had to be done under load. Free reving in the drive way wont work. You have a 4psi drop doing  that, you might be way lower 10 psi under load, hard to say.

 When you tried to re start after it died, did you just turn the key off and right back on? The reason I ask is the ECM needs about 10 or 15 seconds from key off to completly shut down IIRC. We have discussed that on here a good while back and my memory is bit fuzzy on that. If I remember to I check mine out tomorrow.

 

[RAD]

9 minutes ago, dripley said:

.

 When you tried to re start after it died, did you just turn the key off and right back on? The reason I ask is the ECM needs about 10 or 15 seconds from key off to completly shut

 

Yes is was quickly after it died that I tried to start it. It wasn’t too terribly long after (1 minute ir so) that i would  cycle the key and hear the lift pump running.

 

should have touched the top of the IP and reached to the ECM and see if they were hot.

 

 

[dave110]

Not doubting Dripley at all, but I had never heard about the shutdown delay so I had to try. I shut mine off and as soon as the shaking stopped I rolled it right back to start and it fired right up. That being said I have a 99 and have been made aware of several different changes in programming between the early and later years as I continue to study these sometimes finicky trucks.