Trouble Starting Engine - HELP

[dripley]

My fuel basket is like the one @Mopar1973Man shows in the picture, with the in tank lift pump. If you have never had that modifacation yours is maybe much different. My pick up is as shown in Mikes picture except that it is 3/8". I figure that is why I see a 4# drop in mine at wot. I personallay dont see that one is alot better than the other except for the size difference. Had I known a wee bit more when I did  mine I would have used 1/2" for my pick up. 

 If after you put more fuel in and problem goes away at least you know where the problem lies.

Edited October 17, 2018 by dripley

[RAD]

I do not know if there is a lift pump in my tank or not. I had thought there was either a lift pump in the tank or one mounted on the engine.

 

Could there be both?

[dripley]

I doubt it. Just bump the starter, no engine start, then listen for pump running. Then you will know. 

 

I did have 2 pumps on mine many years back. I put a booster pump on the frame rail when the POS in tank pump got weak. It worked fine but I dont know anyone else who ever did it or will admit to it anyway. Thats why I doubt you have both, but it is pissibke.

[RAD]

what would be the better drawstaw kit to use and not too terribly hard to install?

[015point9]

1 hour ago, RAD said:

what would be the better drawstaw kit to use and not too terribly hard to install?

For me... bulkhead fitting in top of fuel module then thread on a PVC pipe with little bit of thread sealer.  Other end file a notch about size of 16 penny nail.  At bottom 2 quarters space at bottom for fuel to get sucked up.  Bottom of tank dies deflect some empty or full, so measurement at bottom critical to prevent 1/4 issues.  Or fass has one I think $95.00 but you drill a hole in tank.  My fass drawstraw sucked air where pipe slips over ribbed fitting.  Side note I would never do the sump route again,where you drill a hole at bottom of tank and hope road debris dont get you or tiny rubber o ring is ok. Red round thing in pic is fass drawstraw.  

Edited October 18, 2018 by 015point9
Add info

[RAD]

23 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

......never do the sump route again,where you drill a hole at bottom of tank....

NOPE!!

[015point9]

27 minutes ago, RAD said:

NOPE!!

Mine Failed because of 1 cross threaded bolt installed by a guy claiming to be mechanic.  Came all the way from AZ to WA with diapers and bailing wire wrapped around tank.  Also same mechanic that screwed up drawstraw.  That is why drawstraw and bulkhead fitting in pic.  Then found this site and started doing my own stuff.  Took me over a year to find another tank.  

I left out return line...mine flows back in right next to uptake pipe.  

[Mopar1973Man]

21 hours ago, RAD said:

Could there be both?

 

Yes. A lot of people got the retro-fit in-tank lift pump then had it fail and then stack on an external lift pump. So yes it's possible to see two lift pumps on a truck. Matter of fact Dodge even has an add-on double pump kit. The first pump was controlled from the ECM as normal then the second pump controlled by an oil pressure switch. Typically the second pump was on the driver side frame rail.

[dripley]

7 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Yes. A lot of people got the retro-fit in-tank lift pump then had it fail and then stack on an external lift pump. So yes it's possible to see two lift pumps on a truck. Matter of fact Dodge even has an add-on double pump kit. The first pump was controlled from the ECM as normal then the second pump controlled by an oil pressure switch. Typically the second pump was on the driver side frame rail.

That how mine was set up. Booster pump on an oil pressure switch. In tank on the ECM.

[Mopar1973Man]

5 minutes ago, dripley said:

That how mine was set up. Booster pump on an oil pressure switch. In tank on the ECM.

 

Back in time, years ago that was a really popular solution by the dealers. 

[dripley]

Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Back in time, years ago that was a really popular solution by the dealers. 

Holy crap I am dealer batman!!!!.

 

Actually I bought mine from BD diesel and thats how it came. Never noticed when I put it on it was just a carter pump. Still got it somewhere. It did work though.

[RAD]

I was reading/looking at fuel delivery stuff today and it seemed to me that the pump(s) very well could have been a dealer installed item.

[dripley]

My in tank pump was the last dealer installed part I ever bought. 

[RAD]

i would like to thank everyone who has commented on this post with their responses. i will keep this topic updated as i continue to get that truck running.

[RAD]

threw a cheeper NEW lift pump on it yesterday. no luck. it did start, gave it some pedal and let off then died. when i opened the valve on the filter housing, fuel came out of the area close to the yellow switch/valve opener. guess i will be removing that and replacing little o-rings??? i , i will investigate but does anyone know the size and what they are made of?

[Royal Squire]

You can buy a new valve for less than $15 IIRC. Check eBay 

[RAD]

I took the overflow banjo bolt out today. I attached/screwed on a length of rubber hose being careful NOT to cover any of the three holes in non-threaded section. I then put the banjo bolt in some water an blew into the hose. I saw bubbles coming from the one smaller hole in the bolt, is this normal or should NO bubbles be seen???

 

i did not do the 14 psi/10 psi compressed air test. Air compressor psi gauge is old and unreliable.

[Haggar]

The stock check valve does have a small bypass.

 

HTH,

 

Hag

[RAD]

[Mopar1973Man]

13 hours ago, RAD said:

I took the overflow banjo bolt out today. I attached/screwed on a length of rubber hose being careful NOT to cover any of the three holes in non-threaded section. I then put the banjo bolt in some water an blew into the hose. I saw bubbles coming from the one smaller hole in the bolt, is this normal or should NO bubbles be seen???

 

i did not do the 14 psi/10 psi compressed air test. Air compressor psi gauge is old and unreliable.