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Leaky88

Air Impact Wrench Recommendation

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I need to purchase a good impact.

The Craftsman I bought years ago is getting old like its owner.

Seen a lot of IR's in shops and people seemed to like them.

 

Any suggestions, please?

 

 

Thanks,.

 

Leaky

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 Bought the red Earhquake gun from HF. What little I have used has been great. Did a Discount Tire a couple years back and they used the same ones which surprised a lttle. But it make me feel a bit better about the purchase

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I got IR 3/4 for bigger stuff but don't use it very much, just did front wheel bearings and it took axle nut off like a lug nut. 

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IR-285B-6__18910.1340889714.480.400.jpg?

 

 

?

 

 

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I was wondering the same thing actually.  The IR stuff looks good, but HF earthquake stuff is rated pretty good.

Edited by Me78569

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Anymore electric ones have a lot of power, like at work we have Milwaukee 1/2" to work on pipe and other random stuff. Works really well and worth the money if you use it enough.

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Both my 1/2" and 3/8" pneumatic impact guns are Ingersoll Rand.

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20 hours ago, dripley said:

 Bought the red Earhquake gun from HF. What little I have used has been great. Did a Discount Tire a couple years back and they used the same ones which surprised a lttle. But it make me feel a bit better about the purchase

Harbor freight has some darn good deals! I have lots no f ratchets and sockets and hand tools from here and have had no issues. 

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32 minutes ago, syndicateshop said:

My Snapon MG 725 is tried and true, but the Milwaukee 1400/ftlb 1/2" cordless is getting used more and more

Earthquake XT all the way! Just had a mechanic stop in with one. Sweet gun for sure. 

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1 hour ago, syndicateshop said:

My Snapon MG 725 is tried and true, but the Milwaukee 1400/ftlb 1/2" cordless is getting used more and more

I would like to step in to one of those or similar for sure. My shop air is pretty feeble for now.

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@dripley I have an engine driven compressor on my service truck and what the MG725 can't break loose the Milwaukee does. Get the 9amp battery though. I got my impact and a cordless grease gun for $450, man is that grease gun nice!

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28 minutes ago, syndicateshop said:

@dripley I have an engine driven compressor on my service truck and what the MG725 can't break loose the Milwaukee does. Get the 9amp battery though. I got my impact and a cordless grease gun for $450, man is that grease gun nice!

I have the Milwaukee drill/ driver combo that i love. 

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I'm also running HF impact guns. My 1/2-inch gun has been taking a beating and holding up awesome. My 3/8-inch gun still works but the socket keeper ring fell off so sockets have to be held in place. My 3/8-inch HF air ratchet I broke the ratchet wheel. It's dead. But I should be using that to break stuck bolts loose like a breaker bar. :duh:

 

Now I've used a few battery powered guns. The last one I used was so damn powerful The bolts for the cross member for the transmission it took the head and rounded it over. The next bolt it broke the head off. I stopped dropped that beast and went back to normal hand tools to quit ruining hardware because of a over-powered tool. 

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3 hours ago, syndicateshop said:

@dripley I have an engine driven compressor on my service truck and what the MG725 can't break loose the Milwaukee does. Get the 9amp battery though. I got my impact and a cordless grease gun for $450, man is that grease gun nice!

I think I need the 450 for the HG replacement coming soon. but I will keep it in mind.

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On 10/16/2018 at 2:21 PM, Leaky88 said:

I need to purchase a good impact.

The Craftsman I bought years ago is getting old like its owner.

Seen a lot of IR's in shops and people seemed to like them.

 

Any suggestions, please?

 

 

Thanks,.

 

Leaky

I have some IR stuff but I'm liking Air Cat a lot. Cornwell had a good deal on a 3/4 impact built by Air Cat a while back that I decided to try. It hits harder than any other 3/4" or 1" drive Snap-on or IR impacts in the shop we have in the shop. I'm finding all the other techs in the shop are always borrowing my 3/4" Air Cat because it will actually loosen yoke nuts on transmissions and differentials on class 8 rigs. I'm debating on trading in my 1/2" IR for a new 1/2" Air Cat in the near future.

 

http://aircat.com

 

 

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On 10/17/2018 at 8:56 PM, dripley said:

I think I need the 450 for the HG replacement coming soon. but I will keep it in mind.

What are you going to spend the other $300 on? JK, That grease gun is worth it's weight in gold. Just 1 skid loader track replacement and it pays for itself. No more 1000 pumps to tension it up, set that sucker to 50 and squeeze the trigger and repeat till track is tight. I love my cordless Milwaukee half inch gun though. Just did a tire change today on a f250, didn't even bog down on dually lugs.

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I'll second Milwaukee M18 impacts are awesome. I've got a 3/8" fuel and a 1/2” fuel and use 5.0 batteries. I definitely use the cordless Milwaukee's more than my air impacts because the cordless Milwaukee's have more power and the work area is much nicer to be in without tripping over an air hose. The only draw back to the Milwaukee M18 impacts is they are  pretty bulky compared to pneumatic impacts so if space is an issue pneumatic would be the direction to go. I also have a Milwaukee M18 grease gun and it is great. If you got a spring pin, king pin, or something that's been neglected for a long time to the point you can not apply enough pressure with a conventional grease gun for the part to take grease it's almost a guarantee the M18 grease gun will manage to push grease through the part.

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My goal us to get everything on my truck back to no grease fittings like rolled out of tbe factory.

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3 hours ago, dripley said:

My goal us to get everything on my truck back to no grease fittings like rolled out of tbe factory.

Curious as to why? Serviceable joints  seem to last longer, at least in my experience.  

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44 minutes ago, syndicateshop said:

Curious as to why? Serviceable joints  seem to last longer, at least in my experience.  

My front end parts lasted 240k. Some parts probably still had some life in them but I just replaced all of it.  I still have the original u joints and carrier bearing on the drive shaft with 455k on them. I just repalced the front axle ujoints about 40k ago. I replaced those with greaseable since i had them on hand. So I would say the sealed is pretty good. Can I get the same quality as came on the truck, maybe not. Who knows what the differnces are today.

 Just bought a new SKF carrier bearing with Made in China stamped on the box, not necessarily a bad thing but we will see. I also found some new old stock ujoints for the drive shaft manufactured back around 2000. I like sealed just one less thing to worry about.

 Now will I get the same service out of them. Time will tell.

Edited by dripley
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4 hours ago, dripley said:

My goal us to get everything on my truck back to no grease fittings like rolled out of tbe factory.

Did you do the axle u joints yourself? Do you have a press? 

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25 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Did you do the axle u joints yourself? Do you have a press? 

Yes. I used my ball joint press. Some beating was required however. Using the SFH. 

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SFH :think: Does that mean 'Swing Freakin' Hard'? :lol:

 

I think I could do it next time :thumb1: Get the caps out first with a chisel used as a wedge to pry out right?

 

I've never even done a drive shaft u-joint.

Edited by JAG1

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NO!!! i used the ball joint press against the cap and and the other side of the press around the yoke. SFH=small efing hammer. By that i mean I cranked down on the press as hard as I could  and then hit the end of the screw with a 16oz hammer and it moved. Then repeated until it popped out. Quite easy actually. Mike told me he uses his impact to do the same with his. When I do the rear drive shaft I am going to do the same and see how that works. The biggest thing you dont want to do is bend one of the ears of the yoke.

 

Sounds to me like I need to stop at your house on the way to Idaho and help with your u joints and then head to Idaho and get my head gasket done. 

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