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One of my front axle shaft u joints failed today passanger side its clonking pretty bad in 4x4... can someone help with part numbers or give me a part number on rock auto to order as there is a few sizes it has a dana 60 front end its a 99 2500. im in the UK so its easy to order from rock auto or any other recommendations on who to order from. Thanks

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I went with NAPA wheel joints. NAPA wheel joints are greaseable. My problem was the bearing caps where rust to the shafts. Driver side required better that 20 ton press to get the cap to even move. Passenger side took me over 4 hour of beating with hammer and MAP torch to get the passenger side apart.

 

I'd rather have them fail before 100k that fight to get 350k wheel joints to even move with 4 hours of swing 6 pound hammer.

Edited by Mopar1973Man

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20 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I went with NAPA wheel joints. NAPA wheel joints are greaseable. My problem was the bearing caps where rust to the shafts. Driver side required better that 20 ton press to get the cap to even move. Passenger side took me over 4 hour of beating with hammer and MAP torch to get the passenger side apart.

 

I'd rather have them fail before 100k that fight to get 350k wheel joints to even move with 4 hours of swing 6 pound hammer.

My truck only has 130k on but it sat for 4 years without being moved much i think thats why its worn out this bad.. ordered one going to have ago at changing later this week i have 20t press so hopefully it wont defeat me 

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1 hour ago, Ronniemx3 said:

My truck only has 130k on but it sat for 4 years without being moved much i think thats why its worn out this bad.. ordered one going to have ago at changing later this week i have 20t press so hopefully it wont defeat me 

If one is going might not be long for the other either. I lost one of mine around a year and a half ago with about 400k on them. Replaced both to be safe. I used my ball joint press on both of them. Still took some persuading but no where near the trouble @Mopar1973Man had with his.

Edited by dripley

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11 minutes ago, dripley said:

one is going might not be long for the other either. I lost one of mine around a year and a half ago with about 400k on them. Replaced both to be safe. I used my ball joint press on both of them. Still took some persuading but no where near the trouble @Mopar1973Man had with his.

 

 

Thats good going 400k! The other side has very little play i will change the one and compare with the other side. I think this side may have been renewed before as it has a grease nipple on.. the drivers side which seems to be ok does not. I will update the thread later this week and let you know how it goes.

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1 minute ago, Ronniemx3 said:

 

 

Thats good going 400k! The other side has very little play i will change the one and compare with the other side. I think this side may have been renewed before as it has a grease nipple on.. the drivers side which seems to be ok does not. I will update the thread later this week and let you know how it goes.

The OE ones, at least on my 02 anyway, came with NO nipple for greasing. 

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This is what I used. Slingers in first picture were wrong, second picture has correct slingers if you need them. I don't care much for greaseable things unless you're in mud/water all the time. Also to get u joints apart be careful using press, you can f things up pretty quick. Just need a good vise or few wood blocks and a good size hammer hitting in right spot. Clean groves for snap rings really well and make sure no burs where caps go in. Good luck. 20180929_150258.jpg.a4c24669c2b2e91f2aa0684e7501a484.jpg20181001_111007.jpg.99745d8468c75f8e6b944407fc112bf7.jpg

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14 minutes ago, CUMMINSDIESELPWR said:

i always get spicer ujoints (non greaseable for strength) and timken bearings.

Ive ordered spicer UJ and i havent ordered bearings as mine are ok but i will keep in mind the recomendation cheers

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Those Spicer Life non greasable non cross drilled joints are the cat's meow.

 

Important to reinstall the caps on their corresponding cross yokes as they have a pre-measured amount of grease in all 4.

 

Wouldn't use anything else, even though I'm the type that lubes greasable U-joints well ahead of schedule.

Edited by ofelas
Auto correct nonsense

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53 minutes ago, ofelas said:

 

Important to reinstall the caps on their corresponding cross yokes as they have a pre-measured amount of grease in all 4

Not sure what you mean by this. I have 3 new joints for my drive shaft. I will press out the old ones and press in the new ones. Do you mean the joints are directional???

Edited by dripley

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8 minutes ago, dripley said:

Not sure what you mean by this. I have 3 new joints for my drive shaft. I will press out the old ones and press in the new ones. Do you mean the joints are directional???

When you take caps off, make sure they go where you took them off. If not there is a chance of one being under greased and one over greased, ether on is not good. Under greased will not last as long, over greased can push a pressed seal out of joint when assembling and may get hotter too making it wear faster. 

Hope I didn't make it more confusing. 

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59 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

When you take caps off, make sure they go where you took them off. If not there is a chance of one being under greased and one over greased, ether on is not good. Under greased will not last as long, over greased can push a pressed seal out of joint when assembling and may get hotter too making it wear faster. 

Hope I didn't make it more confusing. 

When I put a new one in I remove one cap, place the joint in the yoke and put the one cap back over the end sticking out of the yoke an press it in. Just did not see a reason to remove more than one at a time. Directional might have been a bad way to say it.

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All done guys going to do the other side as it has slight play in it. Nice easy job this one was well past it only 1 bearing had any grease 

1542289393640742724290497242410.jpg

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Good job! That is a cheap joint, note the seal and the size of the needles. The smaller the needle the better and the no grease have a better seal. 

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15 minutes ago, Ronniemx3 said:

All done guys going to do the other side as it has slight play in it. Nice easy job this one was well past it only 1 bearing had any grease 

1542289393640742724290497242410.jpg

 

Those could of last much longer if there was a grease zerk and able to flush the old debris out and keep them lubed. 

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It looks like it has one, just didn't get used much I guess. Since oem are non grease the OP probably didn't know about it till too late.

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23 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Those could of last much longer if there was a grease zerk and able to flush the old debris out and keep them lubed. 

It did but the truck sat for 4 years so think that killed it i fitted sealed unit instead

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On ‎11‎/‎13‎/‎2018 at 8:14 PM, dripley said:

When I put a new one in I remove one cap, place the joint in the yoke and put the one cap back over the end sticking out of the yoke an press it in. Just did not see a reason to remove more than one at a time. Directional might have been a bad way to say it.

 

You can't get the joint in the yoke without pulling both caps off for that cross.

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1 minute ago, Ronniemx3 said:

It did but the truck sat for 4 years so think that killed it i fitted sealed unit instead

 

Yeah, I might have gotten 350k miles from my factory OEM joints. Still, the fact remains it was a horrid nightmare to get those joint out and replaced. I would much rather have a joint that is not going to last very long and replacement and greasing much easier. So what if I got to change u-joints every 100k miles much better than beating on stuff for over 4 hours with 6 pound hammer. 

 

A lot of people like the seal units. With all the flood highway and snow I travel its just not a good idea. Now that Idaho is using strictly all salt its making suspension part fail sooner. Causing issues on replacing simple things like u-joint a royal beach. 

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1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

. So what if I got to change u-joints every 100k miles much better than beating on stuff for over 4 hours with 6 pound hammer. 

 

You must have one heck of an arm, my two handed sledge is only 8#, I doubt I could even swing a 6 with one hand.

 

This is what I use for u-joints, I posted these a while back on another site. I don't use a vice or press. With a press, it requires you to move both caps at once, that is too much resistance and can bend a yoke. Smack the joint right in the cross with a big dull chisel, you only move one cap that way. Do not use the tools on the left, use the ones on the right. I think my hammer is a 2#, lol But when I hit, I hit, no tap tap.

 

 

u-joint 2.jpg

u-joint 4.jpg

u-joint 1.jpg

Edited by NIsaacs
add pictures
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I have never done it this way, always used vice or press, BUT I like the idea BUT I might make a piece for the press that presses both sides of the cross at the same time 

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When I did my wheel joint the passenger side I beat on for four hour using heat, PBlaster, and more beating.

 

Driver side I could even start one cap. This shaft required a press which was extremely violent when the caps let go. There was no amount of hammer to free the driver side.

 

Hence why I don't want super life span again by that time of 16 years and 350k miles the caps will be bound up again.

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