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8 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I may go with a set of RV275S that is a possibility. 

Go with the RV's. You will be sorry to go any lower.

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So someone asked here if my WTS was coming on. It comes on with the key but today and Sunday it came on with the key and went off and the truck started hard like it was below zero each time like the grid heaters didn’t run? It was 34 degrees today when it didn’t come on. Isn’t that temp plenty low enough for the grids to cycle? Sunday it was about 35 but had been 28 prior to me starting the truck. 

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That's plenty low enough. 60 something degrees is the cutoff. 66 IIRC. I'd pay close attention to that WTS light the next couple of days. Wait until it comes on before starting and I'll bet it starts right up. If it runs like a cold start when it does fire up then maybe you have 2 issues. AN ECM that is delayed in booting up and grid heaters or their relays that are failing. Did all this start after you welded on the truck?

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4 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

So someone asked here if my WTS was coming on. It comes on with the key but today and Sunday it came on with the key and went off and the truck started hard like it was below zero each time like the grid heaters didn’t run? It was 34 degrees today when it didn’t come on. Isn’t that temp plenty low enough for the grids to cycle? Sunday it was about 35 but had been 28 prior to me starting the truck. 

 

Do you have a live date tool? You should compare your ECT and IAT sensors. If you didn't plug your truck in they should read the same temperature at ambiant temperature. And usually they should be within a few degrees of the outside temp if it's early in the morning.

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7 hours ago, dave110 said:

That's plenty low enough. 60 something degrees is the cutoff. 66 IIRC. I'd pay close attention to that WTS light the next couple of days. Wait until it comes on before starting and I'll bet it starts right up. If it runs like a cold start when it does fire up then maybe you have 2 issues. AN ECM that is delayed in booting up and grid heaters or their relays that are failing. Did all this start after you welded on the truck?

I can’t really remember but that’s a possibility? I did disconnect both batteries. 

3 hours ago, pepsi71ocean said:

 

Do you have a live date tool? You should compare your ECT and IAT sensors. If you didn't plug your truck in they should read the same temperature at ambiant temperature. And usually they should be within a few degrees of the outside temp if it's early in the morning.

Should this be done with the truck idling? 

 

 

I always let all all the lights go off and the chime stop before I fire the truck. 

7 hours ago, dave110 said:

That's plenty low enough. 60 something degrees is the cutoff. 66 IIRC. I'd pay close attention to that WTS light the next couple of days. Wait until it comes on before starting and I'll bet it starts right up. If it runs like a cold start when it does fire up then maybe you have 2 issues. AN ECM that is delayed in booting up and grid heaters or their relays that are failing. Did all this start after you welded on the truck?

When he WTS comes on and stays on the truck starts perfect. It’s when it comes on with key and goes right off that it starts hard and runs like it’s very cold. Like I said this is intermittent. 

Just started the truck it’s 40F and the WTS came on with key and went off and the truck started hard. Also puffed some blue smoke. Something isn’t telling the grid heaters to turn on or what? But even at 40 it should fire right up with jongrids I would think. 

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1 hour ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Should this be done with the truck idling?

No. Just turn the switch on without starting. The IAT and ECT should be the same or within 1 or 2 degrees of each other. Once started they drift away from each other fairly quick.

 

1 hour ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Just started the truck it’s 40F and the WTS came on with key and went off and the truck started hard. Also puffed some blue smoke. Something isn’t telling the grid heaters to turn on or what? But even at 40 it should fire right up with jongrids I would think. 

It should just fire off at 40*. Mine does with the grids disconnected. My WTS comes on at key on but turns off right away. I probably should hook mine back up and see if they still work. When its 20 to 25 outside it still fires off pretty quick but it is a bit angry without the warm air.

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9 minutes ago, dripley said:

No. Just turn the switch on without starting. The IAT and ECT should be the same or within 1 or 2 degrees of each other. Once started they drift away from each other fairly quick.

 

It should just fire off at 40*. Mine does with the grids disconnected. My WTS comes on at key on but turns off right away. I probably should hook mine back up and see if they still work. When its 20 to 25 outside it still fires off pretty quick but it is a bit angry without the warm air.

So the issue is not within the grid heaters and it only starts hard when the engine is cold. I think we’re getting this narrowed down. Headed out now with the scanner.

IAT was 143 and ECT was 159. 

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1 hour ago, Marcus2000monster said:

So the issue is not within the grid heaters and it only starts hard when the engine is cold. I think we’re getting this narrowed down. Headed out now with the scanner.

IAT was 143 and ECT was 159. 

 

For hot temps that's fairly close, withing 10* Hot is normal for me. Cold they needs to be the same. Often times the IAT sensor fails within specification and you get hard starting. A good way to test is to plug the truck in and she will fire right up. The issue is more commonly seen in the CR era, where guys have these issues because the ECM will not throw a code for that.

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1 hour ago, Marcus2000monster said:

So the issue is not within the grid heaters and it only starts hard when the engine is cold. I think we’re getting this narrowed down. Headed out now with the scanner.

IAT was 143 and ECT was 159. 

I should have clarified that I was speaking of a cold engine, 1st start of the day, and the temps matching.

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2 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

IAT was 143 and ECT was 159. 

Dude... your iat (moparmanswitch)fooler is on, flip it to off and test it on cold engine. :punish:

But I might be wrong.....

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2 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

O does everyone turn they’re switch to the off position when shutting they’re truck down?

I leave mine in mpg mode unless it's really cold out and I want grids to stay on longer.

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Yea man, if you’re leaving your switch in MPG setting then you’re telling the IAT sensor it’s warm out and no need to cycle grids, which is why your WTS light is going out so quick and why it’s stumbling a little bit when it’s colder out. 

 

Mine will do the same and it’s not even as cold here as you’re seeing. I’ll typically turn mine to MPG after the first start of the day and leave it like that all day, then back to off after last shut down for the night.

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Well, that's interesting stuff on the IAT fooler. Makes perfect sense but I wouldn't have thought of it. If it's not already spelled out in the instruction manual for the fooler it should be.

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1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

Stupid grids.....

But better than glow plugs i guess 

Never had glow plugs except on rental equipment. I believe they use old railroad truck springs in the switches. You need gorilla fingers to turn and hold them in the on position to heat up.

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1 hour ago, dave110 said:

Well, that's interesting stuff on the IAT fooler. Makes perfect sense but I wouldn't have thought of it. If it's not already spelled out in the instruction manual for the fooler it should be.

 

I'm not sure it's explicitly spelled out to explain what we're talking about, but it's tricking the IAT's and ECT's to thinking they're hotter/colder (as applicable) then they actually are, so it'll have change things in that sense. 

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I understand that part. What I'm saying is there should be a simple side note saying fooler must be turned off to start in cold weather or something like that.

2 hours ago, notlimah said:

Yea man, if you’re leaving your switch in MPG setting then you’re telling the IAT sensor it’s warm out and no need to cycle grids, which is why your WTS light is going out so quick and why it’s stumbling a little bit when it’s colder out. 

 

 

Something right like what your saying here.

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Exactly... The IAT will affect the pre-heat cycle but the battery temperature controls the post heat cycle after the engine is started. If you leave the MPG mode up on a cold start the grid heater will not fire. Then after it starts it will run grid heaters. Now the strange but true you can have 195°F coolant and IAT at 90°F and the grid heater will still fire post heat. Even though the IAT could be fooled to 143°F still the gird heaters will fire on post heat. This is the battery temperature sensor feeding this data. 

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1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

This is the battery temperature sensor feeding this data. 

So how do we deal with that. I don't want them cycling after the truck is already running.

Edit 

I guess it's back to toggle switch idea

Edited by Dieselfuture

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