Jump to content
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com

    We can see that your guest and been lurking about. When you register on the Mopar1973Man.Com site you'll be able to interact with all the other members. This is the most friendliest Cummins forum you'll ever join. Take the time right now and  REGISTER  on the Mopar1973Man.Com this will open up many more options and functions on the website. Everyone is very friendly and helpful just ask questions and everyone will help you out the best they can. 

Sign in to follow this  
Marcus2000monster

Extended crank to start

Recommended Posts

24 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

 

I guess it's back to toggle switch idea

FWIW my toggle switch has been on for over a year now with zero issues other than the 2 hidden codes I never see. I love it. Turn on, pre heat, start, turn off, save alternator. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@IBMobile Ahem. 

 I now understand switch operation be done in the following sequence? Key on, start truck, switch to 6 cyl, let warm up, switch back to mpg, drive truck, shut off, switch off. This is the way our discussion has led me to believe it should be operated is this correct? Now I remember that Mike recommends switching to your desired selection before starting truck. Does this mean you should cycle grids then make your selection and then start? 

2 minutes ago, dave110 said:

FWIW my toggle switch has been on for over a year now with zero issues other than the 2 hidden codes I never see. I love it. Turn on, pre heat, start, turn off, save alternator. 

Three words. TELL US HOW! :sofa:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
57 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

@IBMobile Ahem. 

 I now understand switch operation be done in the following sequence? Key on, start truck, switch to 6 cyl, let warm up, switch back to mpg, drive truck, shut off, switch off. This is the way our discussion has led me to believe it should be operated is this correct? Now I remember that Mike recommends switching to your desired selection before starting truck. Does this mean you should cycle grids then make your selection and then start?

 

I select whatever setting I’m going to use before I start ifnim going to use 6 or 3 cylinder modes. If I’m going to use mpg and truck is cold (like sat overnight cold) I start with the switch off then select mpg as I get driving. I then leave it in MPG the rest of the day.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Marcus2000monster said:

@IBMobile Ahem. 

 I now understand switch operation be done in the following sequence? Key on, start truck, switch to 6 cyl, let warm up, switch back to mpg, drive truck, shut off, switch off. This is the way our discussion has led me to believe it should be operated is this correct? Now I remember that Mike recommends switching to your desired selection before starting truck. Does this mean you should cycle grids then make your selection and then start? 

Three words. TELL US HOW! :sofa:

It's been covered before. Here is the thread. You can see what I and some others did. Simple and effective as can be. I have no idea what IBM is up to. Got tired of waiting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've made a grid heater bypass that like the others you can select heaters or no heaters with a switch but the ECM is fooled not to throw code p038 and p0382.  The last two weeks have been cold enough here for me to do full testing before it's I release the results.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, notlimah said:

 

I select whatever setting I’m going to use before I start ifnim going to use 6 or 3 cylinder modes. If I’m going to use mpg and truck is cold (like sat overnight cold) I start with the switch off then select mpg as I get driving. I then leave it in MPG the rest of the day.

Yep Iv gotnit now. Reason it was intermittent is becuase most starts lately I have been high idling and selecting 6 cyl. On these few occasions it started hard It was in mpg mode. 

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

MPG mode with prevent pre-heat of the grid heaters at key on.

Im glad this little issue isnt digging into the pocketbook such as the new alt and new injectors soon. And as far as the topic of this thread the new batterys and deep clean of the cables and wiring seems to have solved my issue...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

And as far as the topic of this thread the new batterys and deep clean of the cables and wiring seems to have solved my issue...

 

Just remember to keep the cable end covered in engine oil they will never rot again. Period.

 

Heck in 2022 my cable will be 20 years old and still going like brand new. 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/6/2018 at 8:29 PM, Royal Squire said:

The slow crank can appear so gradually that you may not realize how slow it really is until you repair the starter. 

  

It took me hearing another truck start right next to mine to realize it was cranking slow. Replaced the starter..whoa lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Jake said:

  

It took me hearing another truck start right next to mine to realize it was cranking slow. Replaced the starter..whoa lol

Lol it happens slow that’s why. When I get to that point I have heard of a guy that sells start rebuild kits by the name of Larry B. Supposedly his replacement parts will spin your starter faster...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/13/2018 at 7:43 AM, Marcus2000monster said:

Im glad this little issue isnt digging into the pocketbook such as the new alt and new injectors soon. And as far as the topic of this thread the new batterys and deep clean of the cables and wiring seems to have solved my issue...

Anybody ever buy just nozzles and reuse old core for injectors, have a local diesel shop set them up?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 minutes ago, Blueox01 said:

Anybody ever buy just nozzles and reuse old core for injectors, have a local diesel shop set them up?

I would just buy all new they’re pretty cheap. I’m about to pull the trigger on new RV275s for 379$. That is not including core but I have cores to send. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, Marcus2000monster said:

I would just buy all new they’re pretty cheap. I’m about to pull the trigger on new RV275s for 379$. That is not including core but I have cores to send. 

Just wondered, I cleaned all my old Injectors thinking I might save money buying nozzle's like 50hp or what not, ended up buying new RV275's Bosch from local diesel shop, no cores needed. guess I just wasted my time cleaning old cores.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Blueox01 said:

Just wondered, I cleaned all my old Injectors thinking I might save money buying nozzle's like 50hp or what not, ended up buying new RV275's Bosch from local diesel shop, no cores needed. guess I just wasted my time cleaning old cores.

Ideally I would love to have my own pop testing jig. That way you can buy nozzles and set your pop pressure to whatever you desire and then later on recheck your Pop pressure and see how much it settled. Make adjustments yourself without sending it out to anyone. 

I haven't even looked to see how much these things cost, I can't imagine it would be that expensive to make your own. 

Yeah cleaning injectors is a waste of time for the most part, if they need to be cleaned chances are the pop pressure is all gone, so it's pointless cleaning them because they will not run good anyway. And when you sent them in as a core, they go through ultrasonic wash anyway. 

I'd say keep your original ones and one day you may use them as a core for a bigger set. I like my 150hp with v2 tuning. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Ideally I would love to have my own pop testing jig. That way you can buy nozzles and set your pop pressure to whatever you desire and then later on recheck your Pop pressure and see how much it settled. Make adjustments yourself without sending it out to anyone. 

I haven't even looked to see how much these things cost, I can't imagine it would be that expensive to make your own. 

Yeah cleaning injectors is a waste of time for the most part, if they need to be cleaned chances are the pop pressure is all gone, so it's pointless cleaning them because they will not run good anyway. And when you sent them in as a core, they go through ultrasonic wash anyway. 

I'd say keep your original ones and one day you may use them as a core for a bigger set. I like my 150hp with v2 tuning. 

So what kind of HP you think your engine produces? Sorry I'm not up on all the stuff that can be done to these, like v2 tuning, that a Quadzilla? Sorry I seem ignorant.

Edited by Blueox01

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  



×
×
  • Create New...