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W-T ground mod

Marcus2000monster
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Mad Bomber

Mad Bomber

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1 hour ago, IBMobile said:

Yes, it can be in stalled to protect the alternator in that cable.  Some people are using a 150 amp circuit breaker and others are opting for a fuse block with a 150 amp AMI/MIDI or ANL/AMG type fuse.

                                                                           circuit breaker

                                                thTJ06CTTO.jpg.240935930289da67d97d99362929f0e2.jpg

 

                                           thKJMJ6SXU.jpg.2d339c1ce7e747e9411ca9106b708fb3.jpg

What do you think of these 2 don't look at the amps just the pics is  one better or the same

Screenshot_2019-02-21-15-18-44.png

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Mad Bomber

Mad Bomber

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Posted
36 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I used the one on the left (inline) on my winch rated at 150 amps, but pops way too easy as maximum winch draw according to spec is 360 amps, so I got a 300amp coming, as for alternator I used the one on the right rated at 150amp, so far no problem. 20181218_194514.jpg.28ede5fa6ff6053d2f519bb348af6e9d.jpg20181222_172618.jpg.e842aca5f2f7ac866ec7c025cee28b80.jpg

Only problem with this one I see is east to ground out not protected. Has anyone found one that is better protected?

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JAG1

JAG1

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Posted (edited)

I went with a fuse. The fuse is silver coated and sealed inside an O ring cover. I carry an extra fuse in the glove box. I read that breakers can be unreliable and some even when new tripped at half their rated amps. 

Edited by JAG1
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JAG1

JAG1

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Posted (edited)
42 minutes ago, cumminsdog said:

I wonder if this would be reliable with a 220 amp alternator ?

Yes it would be a good thing for your truck, but you will need a 220 amp breaker or fuse on the B+ line.

 

Edited by JAG1
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Posted (edited)
55 minutes ago, cumminsdog said:

I wonder if this would be reliable with a 220 amp alternator ?

 

You could be it does mean it solves the AC noise issue. Diodes still fail just the same. 

 

The key problem is no matter how big of an alternator you buy the problem is always there. The problem is you start up and then the grid heater are banging away at idle (800 RPM's). The alternator is spinning at idle speeds too so now there is no cooling for the diodes and they get hot and fail. No alternator is designed to charge at full load at idle speed. 

 

A solution. Even works for stock alternators. Install a Quadzilla and set the high idle for a 15-second delay. Now the idle is brought up to 1,200 RPM increasing the cooling ability of the alternator as well its ability to charge and handle that 190 amp load. 

 

Poor man solution. Don't leave it idle to warm up. Start it up and get moving instantly. Once the vehicle is moving faster than 25 MPH grid heaters are canceled.

 

@IBMobile is making a grid heater control switch that allows for disabling the grid heater without an error code. Smog state compliant. 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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int3man

int3man

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Posted (edited)

O.K.  I installed my Circuit Breaker on the Front side of the Battery box, out of the way of the occasional wash down.  But my truck is from Arizona and a Grid Heater delete by P.O.  We are looking to move up Post Falls way.  I assume that I'll have to retrofit the Grid heaters back on for the cold weather?  I was looking at taking the truck to South Lake Tahoe next weekend.  Is Grid Heater a mandatory for cold weather start.

 

Sorry did n't mean to Hi-Jack but it went down the Grid Heater Road.

 

TIA  Michael

Edited by int3man
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int3man

int3man

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1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Ummm... If your morning start is below +30*F out then yes you'll need grid heaters. Above +30*F I never even think to wait for the grid heaters I just fire up and go.

 

And if its colder I run the risk of no start?  What's the down side?  Run the batteries flat?  Where we are staying only has valet parking so that's the risk factor.  The weather is right  in that temperature range.

 

Michael

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Just now, int3man said:

And if its colder I run the risk of no start?

 

No start will most likely occur at +20*F.

 

Between +20*F and +30*F its a tough start longer cranking and stuttering when it does light off.

 

1 minute ago, int3man said:

What's the down side?

 

Longer cranking is the downside and excessive starter wear. Then added run time required to keep the batteries charged up. 

 

2 minutes ago, int3man said:

Run the batteries flat?

 

I've seen guys eat the starter before eating the batteries. Starter gets hot on long excessive cranking. 

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int3man

int3man

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1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

No start will most likely occur at +20*F.

 

Between +20*F and +30*F its a tough start longer cranking and stuttering when it does light off.

 

 

Longer cranking is the downside and excessive starter wear. Then added run time required to keep the batteries charged up. 

 

 

I've seen guys eat the starter before eating the batteries. Starter gets hot on long excessive cranking. 

 

Hi Mike,

              I assume that Ether is not an option?  to get it to catch?  

 

Also Please PM me, I watched your "Off the Grid" Video, what is the source of water for the waterwheel?  Natural Spring?  You certainly aren't pumping water to make electricity and your aren't drinking the water that goes through he wheel?

Michael

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Posted (edited)
20 minutes ago, int3man said:

I assume that Ether is not an option?  to get it to catch?

 

Don't use ether if you can. It will make your truck an Ether Baby. Wipes the rings out after a while. For a quick fix you can but VERY small spray goes a long way. Make sure the grid heater is removed or disconnected.

 

20 minutes ago, int3man said:

Also Please PM me, I watched your "Off the Grid" Video, what is the source of water for the waterwheel?  Natural Spring?  You certainly aren't pumping water to make electricity and your aren't drinking the water that goes through he wheel?

 

 

More here. No PM box...

 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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IBMobile

IBMobile

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26 minutes ago, int3man said:

I was looking at taking the truck to South Lake Tahoe next weekend.  Is that a mandatory for cold weather start.

I do a lot of camping south of there at 7200' with the morning temps at 25°-32°F.  The engine starts with the heaters disconnected but with a lot of white smoke (unburned fuel) and rough idle.  This is why I made the grid heater bypass switch so I can use them when I need them with no 'check engine' light.     

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int3man

int3man

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19 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

I do a lot of camping south of there at 7200' with the morning temps at 25°-32°F.  The engine starts with the heaters disconnected but with a lot of white smoke (unburned fuel) and rough idle.  This is why I made the grid heater bypass switch so I can use them when I need them with no 'check engine' light.     

Thanks! I'll watch the weather report.

 

Michael

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Mad Bomber

Mad Bomber

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On 2/21/2019 at 2:13 PM, IBMobile said:

Yes, it can be in stalled to protect the alternator in that cable.  Some people are using a 150 amp circuit breaker and others are opting for a fuse block with a 150 amp AMI/MIDI or ANL/AMG type fuse.

                                                                           circuit breaker

                                                thTJ06CTTO.jpg.240935930289da67d97d99362929f0e2.jpg

 

                                           thKJMJ6SXU.jpg.2d339c1ce7e747e9411ca9106b708fb3.jpg

I found a 150 amp fuse and holder but it says only 1500 watts with 4 gauge from alt. With grid heaters will it be more than that watts?

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