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Dead truck P0216

mcknight77
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JAG1

JAG1

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 I think M73M is even the leader and none of us want to make lite of any one's effort with writing a post or having truck troubles. We all  want to see half a mil miles for all.

 

It all good as long as Dripley gets stirred in the pot :lmao:

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015point9

015point9

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20180226_171749.jpg.2b774bc97c114d8c46278c4bc7fb0e9f.jpgI care:(..  i don't know if it's been talked about or not but what i found be really handy is shut off valves before and after fass pump.  Changing filters,  priming Etc

 

I'm did the fass pump with jic fittings and picked up a cheap Carter pump and laying around just in case.  My old fass lasted over 11 years but when it finally gave way i was a middle of nowhere, that's why I carry a cheap Carter pump.  Takes me 20 minutes to turn the shut-off valve unscrew the fass and put the Carter pump in.  switch over the electric and I'm off and running again.  

20170922_152451.jpg

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dripley

dripley

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1 hour ago, mcknight77 said:

If anybody cares, the new VP44 is in the truck and it runs. FASS going in tomorrow.

We all care and are glad that your problem is solved. We sometimes diverge from topic and have some fun. But ultimately helping to solve the problem is everyones goal here. 

 

36 minutes ago, mcknight77 said:

If this VP44 and FASS lasts 11 years I'll be very happy. It will stop being a daily driver in a couple of months so the mileage will go way down. I'll probably not put another 100K on it before I expire!

 I hope to do the same with mine. After retirement me and the truck are going to lay back alot. But I still think I will see the 500k before retirement. Hopefully the VP I have will get me to that galaxy and beyond. Who knows.

Edited by dripley
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JAG1

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14 hours ago, mcknight77 said:

If anybody cares, the new VP44 is in the truck and it runs. FASS going in tomorrow.

Don't forget the 2 cycle oil in the tank and being religious about fuel pressure staying above 14. If that means a new gauge, remember the electronic sensor needs 5 feet of line between it and the needle valve.

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pepsi71ocean

pepsi71ocean

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4 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Don't forget the 2 cycle oil in the tank and being religious about fuel pressure staying above 14. If that means a new gauge, remember the electronic sensor needs 5 feet of line between it and the needle valve.

 

The FASS will also emit water hammer as well. I ran a needle shut off valve, followed by 2 grease gun sections, then another 7 feet of 1/4" air tubing to my gauge. The T is about under the drivers seat midway between the FASS and VP-44.

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mcknight77

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7 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Don't forget the 2 cycle oil in the tank and being religious about fuel pressure staying above 14. If that means a new gauge, remember the electronic sensor needs 5 feet of line between it and the needle valve.

 

 

New ISSPRO gauge going in now. It has a sending unit on the top of the fuel filter and wires that go to the gauge. Please explain the highlighted above.

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pepsi71ocean

pepsi71ocean

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2 hours ago, mcknight77 said:

 

 

New ISSPRO gauge going in now. It has a sending unit on the top of the fuel filter and wires that go to the gauge. Please explain the highlighted above.

 

Any gauge, and especially the sending units are sensitive to what's called the water hammer effect.

 

Basically fuel like water don't compress well at all, and so when you have a pump the cyclic pressure vibrations will be transported down the piping. And sending units and gauges will pick up on these cyclic vibrations.  

 

Over time they will destroy the gauge/sending units accuracy. The best thing to do is to add in that t fitting and crack it open, just enough to get a reading, then have plenty of line to help asorbe it.

 

Personally I picked a midpoint between the two, let the fass and the VP fight one another.

 

Gotta love fluid dynamics

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pepsi71ocean

pepsi71ocean

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36 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Thanks Pepsi71ocean, you should have at least 5 feet of line between the T or the needle valve to the electronic sensor or it won't last at all. That's what Mopar73Mike taught me. I think he's right.

 

I found the water hammer from the VP to be worse then from the fass side. I've did some experimenting with the location for the T fitting. I still have 7 feet of air tubing, and I used two grease gun hose sections to add as good protection against road debris since my T fitting is between the two. 

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Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

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I got a T about a foot before vp then niddle valve, then I got another T for mechanical ( which is 1/8 air brake line with push in fitting) and electric guage ( quad). Been like that since I bought the truck about 7 year ago. As long as valve is barely open like you guys mention I think it's fine. Key is to open it just enough for fuel to build pressure, it takes about 10 sec on mine to fully go to 18psi. If i crack it open another nano .... hair it will only take few seconds, if I open it it 1/4 turns it spikes right to max. 

Mike's way on the fender is probably best but I'm not going to replumb anything until I open system next time, which will be when I change hoses more than likely. :shrug: BTW my next hose will be that expensive stuff that's rated for whatever and like $3 bucks a foot, blue in color  (not cheap crap that comes with fuel pumps) it's tough almost like a hydraulic hose. Hose I got now is black, better then the original blue, but next time...... post-1102-0-26864600-1422217718_thumb.jpg

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pepsi71ocean

pepsi71ocean

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15 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I got a T about a foot before vp then niddle valve, then I got another T for mechanical ( which is 1/8 air brake line with push in fitting) and electric guage ( quad). Been like that since I bought the truck about 7 year ago. As long as valve is barely open like you guys mention I think it's fine. Key is to open it just enough for fuel to build pressure, it takes about 10 sec on mine to fully go to 18psi. If i crack it open another nano .... hair it will only take few seconds, if I open it it 1/4 turns it spikes right to max. 

Mike's way on the fender is probably best but I'm not going to replumb anything until I open system next time, which will be when I change hoses more than likely. :shrug: BTW my next hose will be that expensive stuff that's rated for whatever and like $3 bucks a foot, blue in color  (not cheap crap that comes with fuel pumps) it's tough almost like a hydraulic hose. Hose I got now is black, better then the original blue, but next time......

 

I used USCG fuel line, It was about $2.50 a foot give or take. Well worth the money because it has steel brads inside. and it works great for what I have to use. I should also mention I wrapped it in crinkle tube as well for added security.

Edited by pepsi71ocean
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JAG1

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Yes my 1/2'' blue fuel line is less expensive stuff from Vulcan on both my trucks and its cracking on the outside. The inner lining does last a long time, but how long I don't know...... its been on my 02 since about 07. On my 01 since early 20017. Not bad really

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Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

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12 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Yes my 1/2'' blue fuel line is less expensive stuff from Vulcan on both my trucks and its cracking on the outside. The inner lining does last a long time, but how long I don't know...... its been on my 02 since about 07. On my 01 since early 20017. Not bad really

Exactly what I've experienced with blue line that comes with pumps. Now running black diesel line but after few years it's showing signs of cracking, so next will be the good stuff.

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mcknight77

mcknight77

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It's back together now with only one SNAFU. I installed the pressure gauge before we installed the FASS. I plumbed the gauge to the factory fuel filter because that's where the old one was installed. Then when we installed the FASS we realized it bypassed the factory filter, so I had to re-plumb the wires and sending unit to the FASS pump. Duh.        The truck now has 18 psi of fuel pressure at 16 lbs of boost and runs much better. Previously it nosed over at 2800 rpm and now it pulls hard to the redline/governor. I'm happy it's back on the road and running better. I'll pick up some 2-cycle oil for it soon.   Thanks for everybody's help. 

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JAG1

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I like the idea of the US Coast Guard approved diesel line Pepsi71ocean mentions. :thumbup2:  (Trouble ticket here) could not get this sentence to go to the right place below what Dieselfuture said .                                                                                                                                              

11 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Exactly what I've experienced with blue line that comes with pumps. Now running black diesel line but after few years it's showing signs of cracking, so next will be the good stuff.

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pepsi71ocean

pepsi71ocean

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18 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Exactly what I've experienced with blue line that comes with pumps. Now running black diesel line but after few years it's showing signs of cracking, so next will be the good stuff.

 

I have roughly 3 years on my current set of USCG fuel hose and it looks like it did when I bought the stuff. 

 

I highly recommend wrapping your fuel line in crinkle tube.

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JAG1

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Make sure to plumb the sensor after the filter so its also an indication of the filter's  condition and effect on pressure. I'm glad it's running great........ don't go too long without the lubricity it needs.

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mcknight77

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On 2/2/2019 at 8:44 PM, pepsi71ocean said:

and run 1/2" lines from the tank to the Fass pump, then run he 3/8's line they give you from the fass to the Vp-44.

 

The kit came with all 1/2" line. :thumb1:

1 hour ago, JAG1 said:

Make sure to plumb the sensor after the filter so its also an indication of the filter's  condition and effect on pressure. I'm glad it's running great........ don't go too long without the lubricity it needs.

 

I plumbed the sensor into the 'Pressure' port on the pump. Don't know if that is upstream or downstream of the filter.

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