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High Pitched "Cricket" Buzz


Brubro67

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I had the squeal sound once. It was vague enough you couldn't tell where it was coming from and since that truck has to be ready for long distance travel I replaced the idler pulley wheel, the belt and the water pump . It was quiet again.

 

Later when I had more time I spun the used water pump with my hand and you could tell it had a rough spot to the bearing. It only had about 40,000 on it is all.

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Thanks all for the input.  After topping off the power steering fluid after full exchange, the noise continued that day here and there.  Then entire drive to work this AM (~30 min) it was absolutely quiet.  But, it returned on way back home.

 

I will check all the pulleys some time soon when I have a chance.  Really busy and very little time to work on truck this week.  Scout camping with the boy this weekend, so I doubt I will have a chance before Sunday PM, but I will try to check it out then.

 

Belt is new, replaced about 10K miles ago, just before transmission rebuild, when I had to replace the transmission heat exchange, which caused the failure.  Also replaced the fan clutch.  At that time, all bearings & pulleys were fine.  Doesn't mean that something didn't go since, so all of that is on the list.

 

Replaced the u-joints about two years ago with ones with zerks, all seem fine.

 

Noise is definitely load related IMO.  It will start, stop, then come back a few seconds later with throttle manipulation when it is in the mood.  The randomness leads me to think bearing, although I have never heard a bearing sound like that.  It definitely has a "reedy" quality to it, and it does not change pitch with RPM.  It also only occurs between 1200 - 2100 RPM, primarily in 2nd gear, but sometimes for a second after shifting in 3rd.  It never occurs in 1st or overdrive, no matter what load or RPM.  I am quite tuned into it now, and can say this with a high certainty.

 

I will post up the pulley & pinion results once completed.  Thank you all!

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55 minutes ago, Brubro67 said:

Noise is definitely load related IMO

 

56 minutes ago, Brubro67 said:

It definitely has a "reedy" quality to it, and it does not change pitch with RPM.

 

Don't rule out a boost leak.  I have heard boost leaks that have a reed sound (like in a musical instrument).  In two cases the cause was a broken hose clamp and the reed-like sound was coming from the vibrating hose end under certain boost conditions. 

 

Some of the symptoms you have described could match that of a boost leak.

 

- John

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  • 2 weeks later...

On Friday, I finally had a chance to look into the pulleys.  The power steering pulley has a little play.  I suspect thats the culprit.

 

So, do I replace the entire unit since it has 166k miles or just the pulley?  I'm leaning towards replacing the entire unit unless there is general consensus that there is lots of life left in the unit; ie, 166k miles is just broken in for them.

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Thanks.  I am going to put in a new pump assembly.  Not worth the hassle & time.  Have very little time as it is.  Get it done & move on.

 

Just flushed whole system a week ago, but will do again to guarantee clean fluid for new pump ?

 

Thabks for the assistance.  I'll hopefully post next that all is quiet!

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Just to be sure, did any 06 Ram Cummins 4wd crew cab duallys come with the ZF power steering (ps) pump?

 

I found several PS pumps but they all say that it is not compatible with the ZF pump.  The one in my Ram looks like the basic ones that I am looking at on line, not ZF.  I am not finding much on ZF pumps, especially in relation to my Ram.  Anyone have more insight with this?

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9 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

If the pump is the problem make sure to flush the system BEFORE removing the old pump.

 

If the pulley bearing is the only issue, ie, no foaming or other signs of failed pump, is flushing to be done in the abundance of caution?  IE, if only the bearing is bad, can it contaminate the system?  I will do it regardless; just curious.

 

Also, does anyone have any recommendations for pulley pullers/installers?  Ultimately, is there something particular I need to look for, for our Ram vehicles?  There is some chatter that some pullers are specific to vehicle types.  Most of the pullers say they are generally universal, with "Chrysler" mentioned.  Just want to make sure that I get what I need before beginning the job.


Thanks!

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It part of the warranty process. If you just change out the pump you take the risk of debris in the lines that damaging the new pump. All pump suppliers all request a full system flush before installing a new pump. 

 

Power Steering pumps on 2003 and above are Ford pump and gearbox. :whistle:

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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If the pulley is good no play in it either way I would suspect (what I've only read about).... that there is an inlet screen somewhere in the system..... cannot remember where its location is, but if clogged it could be starving the pump for fluid as I've also read about a proper way to flush the system to clear that screen inside.

 

IBMobile has an in line filter on his P/S pump system.

 

Hoping Mopar73 Man can chime in on the screen......

Edited by JAG1
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Ordered a new Cardone PS pump and pulley remover/installer off the big river.  This new Cardone part supposedly has a lifetime warranty.  Will install Friday barring any work issues.

 

I also read about the in-line PS system filter/screen.  Anyone know exactly where it is located on a 3rd Gen to save me some research time?

 

Thanks!

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1 hour ago, Brubro67 said:

Ordered a new Cardone PS pump and pulley remover/installer off the big river.  This new Cardone part supposedly has a lifetime warranty.  Will install Friday barring any work issues.

 

I also read about the in-line PS system filter/screen.  Anyone know exactly where it is located on a 3rd Gen to save me some research time?

 

Thanks!

:thumb1:

 

L8tr

d

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally had a chance to replace the steering pump.  After removing the old one and reinstalling the pulley and reservoir on the new pump, I was a little dismayed to find that the new pump bearing had some play in it too, in and out, a fraction of an inch.  The old pump had a bit more play, but my hopes were not great at that point that the noise would stop.  I rechecked every other pulley and they were all rock solid.

 

So, after another complete flush, tightening everything down to specs, purging air and topping off the system, I took it for a test drive.  No more crickets!

 

So, for the benefit of the community here, there is a tiny bit of play in the power steering bearing, in and out, maybe a 64th of an inch.  I bought this pulley installer/remover off the big river:  OEMTOOLS 27031 Pulley Puller/Installer for $22.99.  That tool worked flawlessly.  Make sure to grease up the threads before using (as stated in the instructions), and you should not have any problems.  Seems as if for all of the different variants of these tools, there is a certain percentage of people who bash it in reviews, say it didn't work, the tool broke etc.  I suspect none of them grease the threads, install the device properly, PB blast the old pulley if it looks rough, etc.  IE, there are a lot of dumb-asses out there.  I could not be happier on how well that puller/installer worked and the price was right.

 

The biggest hassle was removing the three mounting bolts, accessible via the four holes in the pulley face.  You don't have much room to work with.  I used a deep well socket (13mm) on a 3/8" ratchet and used a standard socket on a 3" extension to loosen by hand after they were loose enough.  I'm sure the service manual tells you to take off the belt, fan and shroud completely, but you can do it by just taking the serpentine belt off the compressor pulley and accessing the two top bolts from the top of the engine and the lowest one from the bottom.  From the top of the engine looking down, the top bolt on the left/passenger side is the hardest to access.  You just have to feel for it, kind of blind.  Take the fender well out to access the low and high pressure lines, and the rest is academic.  With access being so limited, I was a bit worried about getting the three bolts started, but that was a breeze.  Again, accessing that upper left bolt was the most difficult, but it did not result in any profanity, busted knuckles etc.

 

Important!  Make sure to measure several times and in several places where the pulley is on the shaft.  I measured from the inside face of the pulley to the back of the power steering pump and wrote it down.  On my pump, it was 3 31/32".  You have to install the new pulley in the same place as the original, otherwise it won't line up with the serpentine belt.  I'm sure that as long as you are within 1/32" it will be fine.  I put it dead on with the installer.

 

The pump that I bought came with all of the o-rings.  I would recommend buying a pump that comes with replacements.  The cheaper ones do not, and IMO, it would be foolish to re-use the old ones and a hassle to hunt down replacements.  I think the pump I bought was about $15 more than the cheaper ones that did not come with o-rings.  This pump also has a lifetime warranty, so those extra few bucks are a no-brainer to me.  There are two o-rings on the reservoir nipple and one on the high pressure line that goes into the pump.

 

Thanks to all for the advice!

Edited by Brubro67
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3 hours ago, Brubro67 said:

Finally had a chance to replace the steering pump.  After removing the old one and reinstalling the pulley and reservoir on the new pump, I was a little dismayed to find that the new pump bearing had some play in it too, in and out, a fraction of an inch.  The old pump had a bit more play, but my hopes were not great at that point that the noise would stop.  I rechecked every other pulley and they were all rock solid.

 

So, after another complete flush, tightening everything down to specs, purging air and topping off the system, I took it for a test drive.  No more crickets!

 

So, for the benefit of the community here, there is a tiny bit of play in the power steering bearing, in and out, maybe a 64th of an inch.  I bought this pulley installer/remover off the big river:  OEMTOOLS 27031 Pulley Puller/Installer for $22.99.  That tool worked flawlessly.  Make sure to grease up the threads before using (as stated in the instructions), and you should not have any problems.  Seems as if for all of the different variants of these tools, there is a certain percentage of people who bash it in reviews, say it didn't work, the tool broke etc.  I suspect none of them grease the threads, install the device properly, PB blast the old pulley if it looks rough, etc.  IE, there are a lot of dumb-asses out there.  I could not be happier on how well that puller/installer worked and the price was right.

 

The biggest hassle was removing the three mounting bolts, accessible via the four holes in the pulley face.  You don't have much room to work with.  I used a deep well socket (13mm) on a 3/8" ratchet and used a standard socket on a 3" extension to loosen by hand after they were loose enough.  I'm sure the service manual tells you to take off the belt, fan and shroud completely, but you can do it by just taking the serpentine belt off the compressor pulley and accessing the two top bolts from the top of the engine and the lowest one from the bottom.  From the top of the engine looking down, the top bolt on the left/passenger side is the hardest to access.  You just have to feel for it, kind of blind.  Take the fender well out to access the low and high pressure lines, and the rest is academic.  With access being so limited, I was a bit worried about getting the three bolts started, but that was a breeze.  Again, accessing that upper left bolt was the most difficult, but it did not result in any profanity, busted knuckles etc.

 

Important!  Make sure to measure several times and in several places where the pulley is on the shaft.  I measured from the inside face of the pulley to the back of the power steering pump and wrote it down.  On my pump, it was 3 31/32".  You have to install the new pulley in the same place as the original, otherwise it won't line up with the serpentine belt.  I'm sure that as long as you are within 1/32" it will be fine.  I put it dead on with the installer.

 

The pump that I bought came with all of the o-rings.  I would recommend buying a pump that comes with replacements.  The cheaper ones do not, and IMO, it would be foolish to re-use the old ones and a hassle to hunt down replacements.  I think the pump I bought was about $15 more than the cheaper ones that did not come with o-rings.  This pump also has a lifetime warranty, so those extra few bucks are a no-brainer to me.  There are two o-rings on the reservoir nipple and one on the high pressure line that goes into the pump.

 

Thanks to all for the advice!

:cheers:  we'll be doing that in a few

 

L8tr

D

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  • 4 weeks later...

New here but avid reader for years. Recently having what appears to be a nearly identical "cricket" squeal on my truck. Except mine is mainly at idle and typically goes away with a little pedal or acceleration. Checked everything and oddly enough I am 90% certain that the sound is coming from the plastic front fender cover below the headlights. The molded piece that sits in the front bumper and is rounded under the headlights. My final test, hopefully today is to put a few tie straps around it and see if it goes away. Will report results. Hate for my first post to be ignorant and stupid, but the direction my investigation as taken. My truck has similar mods as yours and I have vibration at idle as the installer did not do a great job on the muffler. 

Apologies, it appears my first post here did indeed make idiot status. I did not see the part where the steering pump fixed the issues. I'll sit in the corner with my dunce cap for a while and read the experts posts. 

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You may be on to something!  I am still having the same noise, no rhyme or reason.  After reading your post, I moved that cover around, and there is a significant amount of movement.   The noise has subsided dramatically, at least for the time being.

 

I am planning on working on it this weekend & see if securing it will resolve the issue.

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