30k miles on fuel filters

[Mopar1973Man]

I changed them early at 30k miles. Yea I need to leave them in longer. I'm changing too early at 30k miles. Factory rate 15k miles is like fresh out the box yet. Running good ol' petroleum diesel. Mostly from Maverik Fuel Stations here on the west side. 

 

 

[015point9]

I change mine once a year ( I don't drive very many miles)  I'm wondering if I should just change my mine when I see that fuel pressure gauge go down a little bit?  

In other words use a fuel pressure gauge is an indicator when my filters are getting shot.

Edited March 4, 2019 by 015point9
Clarify better

[Bullet]

I go about 20k between.  Sometimes they are cleaner looking and sometimes they are a little dirtier.  But they are cheap enough to do it every 20k so it gets done.  They are a heck of a lot cheaper than a Vp44...that's for certain. 

[Manimalmother]

I do it every oil change which amounts to about every 7500 miles.  I am only running the factory filter though.

[Michaelsloft]

Truck is equipped with factory fuel filter. I change it every year or @15,000 miles, whichever comes first. Usually clean and occasionally is slightly dirty using high volume truck stops for fuel. 

[Nekkedbob]

I change mine when ever the fuel pressure drops a average of a pound or 2. Sometimes once a year but I have gone two years at about 10k per year.

[Guest 04Mach1]

There is more to filtration than our naked eye can see, only a microscope or other specialized equipment could verify the cleanliness of the filter media pictured above. Media discoloration has nothing to do with the cleanliness of the media or the restrictions the media causes.

[Bullet]

1 minute ago, 04Mach1 said:

There is more to filtration than our naked eye can see, only a microscope or other specialized equipment could verify the cleanliness of the filter media pictured above. Media discoloration has nothing to do with the cleanliness of the media or the restrictions the media causes. 

I can see why you would say that...I would think the pores of the paper would deform after spending so much time submerged and changing the filtering ability.  And that could only be seen under a microscope.  However I have trouble seeing how the discoloration of the media has nothing to do with how dirty it is.  I would have to disagree with that part. 

[Dieselfuture]

I too change filters when pressure is starting to drop below normal,  although last time it did that it was ball and spring issue, after changing filters pressure did not come up, I have a ball valve installed before and after fass so I closed after valve and let all pressure go back to tank through ball and spring for 30 seconds maybe and that fixed it, pressure came back up. I suppose you don't need the ball valves, just bump the starter few times to get most of fuel to go back to tank. 

[LegendaryKing]

I change the factory filter with every oil change.  I use Baldwin filters for oil and fuel as they are manufactured in the USA where Fleetguard is manufactured in Mexico.

[Guest 04Mach1]

On 3/4/2019 at 8:01 PM, Bullet said:

I can see why you would say that...I would think the pores of the paper would deform after spending so much time submerged and changing the filtering ability.  And that could only be seen under a microscope.  However I have trouble seeing how the discoloration of the media has nothing to do with how dirty it is.  I would have to disagree with that part. 

Sorry for the delayed response. What I've been told in countless training sessions with Baldwin and Fleetguard is the media will get stained with whatever passes through it. I should rephrase that, it depends on what the filter is stained with as to if it will cause restrictions and plugging. In today's fuel bio growth is probably the most common culprit to plug a fuel filter I've seen. In all actuality is filter media becomes more efficient as it's gets dirty, the trick is to not let it get so dirty that it restricts flow. Anytime you open an engine manufacturers troubleshooting tree that has anything to do with fuel systems they instruct to check fuel filter restriction. They also say to replace when 8 to 10 inhg of restriction exists. I've seen some pretty nasty looking fuel filters that were not even close to that type of restriction. I've also seen clean white looking air filters for instance that were so plugged that they collapsed and caused major engine damage. It all depends on what the filter is filtering as to what color the media will be.

 

I don't know if I explained anything satisfactory or not but as a heavy duty diesel mechanic of 20+ years I've had very few filters I could look at and determine the health of said filter, most of the time gauges were needed to determine the amount of restriction the said filter was causing.

[Bullet]

40 minutes ago, 04Mach1 said:

Sorry for the delayed response. What I've been told in countless training sessions with Baldwin and Fleetguard is the media will get stained with whatever passes through it. I should rephrase that, it depends on what the filter is stained with as to if it will cause restrictions and plugging. In today's fuel bio growth is probably the most common culprit to plug a fuel filter I've seen. In all actuality is filter media becomes more efficient as it's gets dirty, the trick is to not let it get so dirty that it restricts flow. Anytime you open an engine manufacturers troubleshooting tree that has anything to do with fuel systems they instruct to check fuel filter restriction. They also say to replace when 8 to 10 inhg of restriction exists. I've seen some pretty nasty looking fuel filters that were not even close to that type of restriction. I've also seen clean white looking air filters for instance that were so plugged that they collapsed and caused major engine damage. It all depends on what the filter is filtering as to what color the media will be.

 

I don't know if I explained anything satisfactory or not but as a heavy duty diesel mechanic of 20+ years I've had very few filters I could look at and determine the health of said filter, most of the time gauges were needed to determine the amount of restriction the said filter was causing.

I follow what you are saying and you definitely have more experience than I do being a long time diesel mechanic.  I personally have only had 1 episode where my fuel filter was so restricted that it made my truck hiccup under acceleration.  It was also the dirtiest looking (darkest) filter I have ever extracted from the truck.  Since then I have never had one anywhere near as dirty and also have never had that hiccup symptom again.  So you can see how, based on my experience, I would link a dark filter to a restrictive one.

 

I appreciate your info!  I'm always looking to learn what I don't know. 

[Mopar1973Man]

This is why you should have the fuel pressure gauge AFTER the last filter so you can monitor the supply pressure to the VP44. This also gives you an idea of how restricted the fuel filter is and you'll see pressure fall out under load. Good clue to change the filter. 

[Dieselfuture]

A bit off topic, someone I know had oil changed at Walmart and they put a fram filter on, right of way car made funny noise, they called me asking for opinion, once I found out they just changed oil I looked at filter and it was fram I said more than likely it's the filter. Went and got a wix and noise went away. This car has a timing chain tensioner that works with oil pressure, fram was so restrictive that it was cutting flow to the tensioner. I quit using that brand long ago and if they ever become better I will still refuse to buy one for all the damage/headeck they've caused already. Screw that company, worst filters on market, superteck is better and cheaper.