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Kane4sythe

New dodge owner in need of help!

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First of all, I hope this is the right category and I do all of this right, this is my first time on this website. I have recently bought a 2001 24 valve with 193000 miles on it. The dealer that I bought it from did not have any decrcription if the truck other than that it was a clean truck. I am completely uneducated in diesel trucks and honestly mechanics in general. This is my first diesel truck and my first vehicle in general. the truck is an automatic, and although I’ve hear manuals are more fun, more reliable, and all around better tranny’s, an automatic was the only one that I could find that didn’t cost an arm and a leg, wasn’t rusted out, and didn’t have tons of miles. From what I can see on the truck the truck has an RP-4G-100 pure flow airdog, a new transmission pan, gauges, and an edge comp box. I have been led to believe that the comp box has not been wired correctly to the fuel pump due to most people having the result of black smoke especially when on level five, but I have not even seen a puff. Basically, I want to make this truck a reliable daily driver, with the hopes of adding some horsepower later on. What should I do in order to make this truck reliable? I have been suggested a shift kit and torque converter from another forum. By the way, the truck also shifts sort of rough between 3 and 4 gear sometimes. This does not bother me, but if it is a problem I would like to address it before it worsens. So basically, how can I make my 2500 with the plagued 47re up and running for the long run?

thank you fo any help.B3F27C02-0037-4D3F-80C6-6A740B054428.jpeg.5cbab97a725862f1172fdbbef1e791a9.jpeg0050FC96-F14F-4EBD-898E-14116464585A.jpeg.22e5ab68be13e7718f6be7ac3e0399b1.jpegAB4ACCD7-4EB0-42F2-A616-3878B4A97698.jpeg.25f00b31fbbaa1022f2ddf446f536408.jpeg

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27 minutes ago, Kane4sythe said:

I have been suggested a shift kit and torque converter from another forum.

 

Talk to @Dynamic our site transmission guru.

 

You'll want to to do the WT ground wire mod to protect the computers. 

I would suggest that the Edge Comp is ditched and look towards a Quadzilla personally. Way better control of fuel and timing over a canned tuner. 

With kind of mileage, I would consider having the injectors pop tested or replaced.

The Raptor should hold up for some mild mods in power. I see its a 4G pump so it should hold up good.

 

30 minutes ago, Kane4sythe said:

By the way, the truck also shifts sort of rough between 3 and 4 gear sometimes. This does not bother me, but if it is a problem I would like to address it before it worsens.

 

Another one to talk with @Dynamic about this shifting issue. Might want to change the fluid and adjust the bands as a starting point which will allow you to see what is in the pan bottom for debris. Could be the filter is plugging up.

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I would drop the Torque converter cover and look for an after market converter.  Then do the same in the valve body.  

 

There are Pan off upgrades that could be done, if they are done it might give you an idea about what you have.  

 

 

Other than that the typical 2nd gen stuff like, replace the entire front end.  

 

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Thank you @Mopar1973Man I checked the trans fluid yesterday and all that looks good. I just messaged dynamic, thank you.

@Me78569 Alright, so what do I need to do in the valve body? I am completely uneducated in mechanics which is why I am coming to these forums, with the hopes of learning more. What are pan off upgrades? So when you say front end, what sort of things do you mean? I apologize for all the questions that I’m sure must sound dumb, but I am 16 and trying to learn as much as I can.

And also, does anyone know of any place I can take the truck where they just tell me what needs to be done? That sounds so easy but heck if there would be an honest place like that it’d be awesome so I figured I’d ask.

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Really the entire front end suspension should be gone through.  Steering, control arms, ball joints, track bar.  Anything between the tires and the frame.  

 

Pull the pan off and check for stuff that is not stamped steel.  

 

Example would be a aftermarket strut.

 

These are aftermarket.

1509655913590-468857452.jpeg

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Welcome to the Forum, it looks like you found a good truck.

 

Finding a shop like you are talking about is not easy to find. It's best to consult people on this forum before jumping into something. All we ask is that you share your experiences, either good or bad, to help other members on their trucks.

 

Don't forget to add 2 stroke oil to the fuel so the lubricity level is correct for the injection pump. Adding 1 oz. per gallon is good.

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Wow, looks to be a really clean truck.  Me, I'm going to advise, go slow. Get to know your truck a bit & sort out what it really needs before doing anything.  Pay attention to how it drives..does it drive straight when u let go of the wheel?  does stay straight when you apply the brakes?  While parked & running, hold the brake so you don't move & put the truck in drive...then to Neutral...then to Reverse...An clunking type noises?   

Check out the front tires..are they wearing even? cupping..wearing on one side?

When you said the transmission was all good did you mean it was on the full mark or do you know to pay attention to the color, the smell?

 

Pay attention to the temp gauge..what gauges does it have? look up what the normal operating range for those gauges..where does your truck run at?  

 

Don't feel alone being a newbie, i'm in my first personal diesel myself & of all the issues I've read..A. Auto Trans is not that bad if you upgrade the weak spots. B. Go through your ground contacts, I personally think poor ground wires/connections cause more than half the electrical and/or the wth is going on issues. 

 

Good luck!

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And also, does anyone know of any place I can take the truck where they just tell me what needs to be done? That sounds so easy but heck if there would be an honest place like that it’d be awesome so I figured I’d ask.

alright @Me78569

@OmahaGen2 okay, I will try these things next chance I get. The front tires are wearing uneven, what needs to be done to correct this? What smell should I be looking for with the transmission? In neutral drive and reverse while the breaks are on there are no clinking noises. This morning when I tried to start it up the power steering was not working, let the truck warm up for about 30 seconds and all was good, I don’t know what this means. I usually let the truck warm up but it didn’t get too far below freezing last night and need to get into the habit of starting it up a few minutes before I drive it. The transmission stays at a good temperature temperature -120 to 140. It as “ext temp” gauge and “boost gauge” what are boost and ext? Alright, I can check out the ground wires. Thank you! And by the way, am I replying to comments right? Am I supposed to keep typing in this same box? In order to make this a reliable truck, what do you guys think I’m looking at price wise? I know it’s going to be a super rough and general estimate but any input would be great.

@JAG1thank you. Okay. One ounce per gallon. My goodness that’s gonna be expensive. Do you think even if I add a little less than would still help? Is it like better some than none or does it have to be that exact amount?

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Haha hopefully. How do you figure that out? Do you know if block 53 problems usually occur early in the life of the truck or later on. How do you know when you have a problem?

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Welcome, you pick the right truck to learn on, you'll have lots of experiences. Like mentioned above don't try to fix everything at once, some of it may not need to be fixed, other times you fix more than one thing and be left guessing what did what. Consult here and take it slow one step at a time so nothing gets missed. On your free time start reading past posts on this forum, lots to be learned.

On 3/16/2019 at 7:09 PM, Kane4sythe said:

I have been led to believe that the comp box has not been wired correctly to the fuel pump due to most people having the result of black smoke especially when on level five, but I have not even seen a puff.

You may have stock injectors or box isn't hooked up, this is a whole other thread on its own. By saying not wired up correctly to fuel pump meaning vp44? Tap wire? 

On 3/16/2019 at 7:09 PM, Kane4sythe said:

What should I do in order to make this truck reliable?

Keep it as stock as possible, other than needed mods like, fuel pressure/lubricity, grounds/batteries/alternator, send your transmission to dynamic to be done the right way or learn and do it yourself, just these little things, stay on top of maintenance  ( preventive vs proactive )

11 hours ago, Kane4sythe said:

And also, does anyone know of any place I can take the truck where they just tell me what needs to be done?

You'll get bent over more than likely by most shops that deal with these trucks, best is to buy tools and do it yourself, then at least you get to keep tools in the end.

11 hours ago, Kane4sythe said:

The front tires are wearing uneven, what needs to be done to correct this?

Even if alignment and front-end is perfect they will still wear some, maybe a simple rotation. What size tires? Like me78569  mention, most of us went through the whole front end. I chosed to upgrade to T style vs Y for steering linkage. 

 

11 hours ago, Kane4sythe said:

What smell should I be looking for with the transmission?

Get a quart of fluid that your truck takes, smell it, then pull dipstick and smell it, should smell the same. If there are problems it'll smell burnt.

11 hours ago, Kane4sythe said:

This morning when I tried to start it up the power steering was not working, let the truck warm up for about 30 seconds and all was good, I don’t know what this means.

How does the power steering fluid look,  is it clear, red, black, 

 

11 hours ago, Kane4sythe said:

It as “ext temp” gauge and “boost gauge” what are boost and ext? 

Exhaust and boost, typically you don't want to be running above 1200f, and 30ish psi of manifold pressure assuming you have an hy turbo. 

 

11 hours ago, Kane4sythe said:

Am I supposed to keep typing in this same box?

No, you select what/who you want to quote and write under the box.

 

11 hours ago, Kane4sythe said:

In order to make this a reliable truck, what do you guys think I’m looking at price wise?

Depending on how often you change your mind, being you're yong, at this point it's priceless. 

 

11 hours ago, Kane4sythe said:

 I know it’s going to be a super rough and general estimate but any input would be great.

First you need to set your goals, you can spend 2k or 10k and not be where you want. 

 

11 hours ago, Kane4sythe said:

One ounce per gallon. My goodness that’s gonna be expensive.

If you use 5% or higher  (up to 20%) of biodiesel, then you don't need to add 2 stroke, problem with bio is it attracts moisture, so if you let the truck sit for long periods of time then fill with regular diesel and add 2 cycle oil, drive a bit to get it all mixed and in through the system before parking. By long time is something over few months.

 

11 hours ago, Kane4sythe said:

Do you think even if I add a little less than would still help? Is it like better some than none or does it have to be that exact amount?

Every little bit helps and doesn't have to be dead on, don't be going cheap on us already.....

 

9 hours ago, Kane4sythe said:

How do you figure that out? Do you know if block 53 problems usually occur early in the life of the truck or later on.

There is a decent size stamp on the side of the block with 53. Most crack early, and few later in life. If you warm it up before abusing it, it should be fine. Casting is little thinner in the block so it's more prone to cracking.

 

9 hours ago, Kane4sythe said:

How do you know when you have a problem?

When coolant is running down the side of the block.

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Posted (edited)
On 3/16/2019 at 10:03 PM, Kane4sythe said:

@Me78569 Alright, so what do I need to do in the valve body? I am completely uneducated in mechanics which is why I am coming to these forums, with the hopes of learning more. What are pan off upgrades? So when you say front end, what sort of things do you mean? I apologize for all the questions that I’m sure must sound dumb, but I am 16 and trying to learn as much as I can.

 

And also, does anyone know of any place I can take the truck where they just tell me what needs to be done? That sounds so easy but heck if there would be an honest place like that it’d be awesome so I figured I’d ask.

 

The next time I'm out in reading I can swing by and meet you at Walmart or such. Your truck should be mostly fine, I think that its better to save up for a transmission and go from there bud! That looks like a clean truck. And I'm in the process of rebuilding my 99. You came to the right place.

 

There is Lannings Diesel up in Shickshinny PA. They are a Goerend dealer. I don't know much else about them building trucks thought!

But If you got that lucky, my advise is to learn and build it yourself. Most of the stuff to do yourself will save you money. The only thing I would really consider farming out would be things like the transmission. They can be really more of an art then a science.

 

I don't know of any places but I need to find the other guy who lives out in Shillington and ask him he may know. I tend to all of my own work.

EDIT: @Mopar1973Man do you remember who is out in Shillington He's near me in reading but I can't think of his name at the moment!

 

EDIT 2: I found him @dave110. He may know.

Edited by pepsi71ocean

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Posted (edited)

Hello and welcome! The only shop I know to recommend is Zimmys garage up on rt. 322 going towards Campbelltown. If I ever have a problem I can't figure out that's where I'd go. They also have a lot at the old Birchwood automotive in Schaefferstown, but I believe most of the diesel work gets done at the other location. They have a good reputation in the area. There's also Hassler Diesel off 501 in Bethel, but I don't know much about them. East Coast Diesel in Johnstown is another one. My neighbor had quite a bit of work done there on his 98. All pretty far from you I know. York is just not an area I know much about, other than the engine I bought to replace my cracked 53 block came from Winterstown. Not sure what might be closer to you. Like others have said there' alot of info. on this site if you are able to do the wrenching yourself.

 https://zimmeysdiesel.com/   https://www.hasslerdiesel.com/   

https://www.ecddiesel.com/

Nice truck by the way. Not often we see any that clean here in the state where rock salt is the state mineral.

Edited by dave110
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Posted (edited)

My #53 showed after 175K and a new 29' fiver. The 1 inch block letters are just above the oil pan on the drivers or passager side of near the front of engine.

Edited by Mad Bomber

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1 hour ago, Mad Bomber said:

 

My #53 showed after 175K and a new 29' fiver. The 1 inch block letters are just above the oil pan on the drivers or passager side of near the front of engine.

 

Thank you!

 

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On 3/18/2019 at 11:28 PM, Kane4sythe said:

Thank you!

 

 

It's luck of the draw. I know if guys who went to the track every weekend with #53 blocks and never had an issue.

 

It's a thermal expansion and a motor mount issue. Usually if your haven't had any issues by 150k your considered safe. Your at almost 200k I think your good to go. Just take her easy to she warms up a bit. I wait til i see 165-170 degrees of coolant then give her hell. And idle her down too. Especially if your towing heavy. No sense in not letting the engine circulate the coolant to even out the heat in the block.

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