Assistance Deciphering Proper Turbo And Job Planning Assistance

[keithb7]

1998.5 24V Automatic tranny 4x4 2500.

 

Hi folks. I have a considerable amount of turbo end shaft play. 208,800 miles. I have not checked boost pressure however I see oil is dripping off exit hose & clamp at ATAAC. I suspect I am pushing oil though the ATAAC as the turbo shaft seals and bearings are failing. Looking at stock turbo replacement options. I am planning to stick with stock size. 

Looking at replacement turbo options for a 1998 year I see a few choices. Some state "For Engine Vin code D". I assume that means diesel? Other turbo options read for "Engine VIN 6". I am unsure what that means,

 

My engine tag is below. I don't see anything labeled VIN code. Maybe I need to look elsewhere? Perhaps 1998 options listed are covering both the 12V and 24V engine turbo options.

Perhaps I should look at 1999 turbo options. There are fewer options listed. I am in Canada. There are a few turbos listed under 1998 year "With Canada Emissions". I assume this I need? I believe the stock turbo on my engine is a Holset HX35. I will confirm later.

 

Another issue the oil in my ATAAC. I assume I need to pull the ATAAC and have it properly cleaned and tested to ensure good flow again. What other tasks can I expect once I get in there?

This is my first time personally doing this work so tips are appreciated. I will change all gaskets and planning new turbo oil line too. What about the soft hoses in the intake? 

Thanks in advance.

 

[dripley]

VIN=vehicle indentifacation number. They inique to every vehicle. It should on your registration, in the states anyway, not sure about Canada. It is also on metal plate where the windshield meets the dash on the drivers side and visible from the outside. It is also on another metal plateI on one of the fenders under the hood I believe.

 Pretty sure you are right on the HX being stock for your truck but I will let the more knowledgable speak on turbos.

[Haggar]

VIN is Vehicle Identification Number.  Its on the dash.  The same one the state uses to give you a title.

 

please take all things with a grain of salt.  We are south of the border.  You canuks could have mandated all kinds of weird stuff

The reason they are asking, the manual transmission trucks got an HX turbo and the automatics got the HY turbo.  (again Canadian emissions could have been different.)

 

Most people upgrade to the HX from the HY at this point.  But there may be some modifications needed along with the change.  Some people are happy with what they have (they don't pull heavy loads, and want a simple repair) and just put an HY back on.

 

Post a couple pictures of the turbo, especially the exhaust output.  Many of the good turbo guys here can tell you what you have with some pictures.

 

HTH

Hag

 

 

Edited March 20, 2019 by Haggar

[Stormin08]

98.5 to 2000ALL & 01-02 Manual was an HX35 platform some/most being an hx35W ( wastegated)

2001-2002 AUTO was the hy35W

 

the hx 35 is bolt on upgrade to the hy, with a 62/65/12 being a very popular upgrade with small fueling mods or wire tap tuner.

[trreed]

Removal and replacement is fairly easy.  The two bolts holding the exhust downpipe to the elbow are known to snap, so soak those in ATF or PB Blaster for a few days.  

Why replace the oil supply line?  Those don't usually go bad.

 

Cleaning the CAC will be a PITA.  Removal and soaking in a detergent like Simple Green may be best.

 

Lastly, you are correct on it being a HX35W.  You should be able to find one fairly reasonable.  Most of use here are wary of parts store (napa, autozone, etc) or Chinesium turbos.  Genuine Holset is usually the easiest bet.

[keithb7]

Got this just now. Now that the sun is up here. Thanks folks.

 

 

[Dieselfuture]

You can rebuild it for 50 bucks plush shipping with genuine holset kit from dap, diesel auto power. If the shaft didn't groove housing and compressor wheel didn't hit compressor housing. If it's leaking out of exhaust good chance housing needs fixed. You can by  a used hx35 for $100-200 and put it on if it looks good or rebuilt it before hand. 

If you're going to spend more than few hundred bucks on hx35 you maybe money ahead on getting something like 62/65/12 

Not sure on your future goals and needs.

[keithb7]

I pulled the original turbo today. I confirmed that there is oil in the air exit of the turbo and coming from what appears to be the shaft area. There was an oil coating on the inside of the pipes and flex hoses down to the cooler. The wastegate appears frozen as I cannot move the linkage at all.  I pulled everything out for cleaning and ordered a new stock Holset HX35W replacement. I am looking forward to some renewed boost.

 

Is there a special tool or technique to get the forward lower turbo nut off? I was able finally figure out a way. Not an easy nut to loosen. If I recall, spec is 24 ft lbs on those nuts when re-installing new turbo. How in the heck do you get a torque wrench on those turbo nuts? Pretty tight in there! 

Edited March 24, 2019 by keithb7

[cumminsdog]

just get it real tight .

 

[keithb7]

This is the first time for me replacing a turbo on a diesel engine. I would like to crank the engine to get a good supply of engine oil up to the turbo, before actually stating the engine. What is the proper procedure to do this? Is there a fuse that can be pulled so the VP 44 won't push fuel?  Thanks.

[dripley]

Pull the fuel pump relay in the PDC and the VP will not power up. This will allow cranking but no engine start.

[Dieselfuture]

Before you put your supply oil line on the turbo, dump some oil in the hole and rotate the shaft, that should do the trick.

Before I put my turbo on, I dumped oil in the hole put my fingers over holes and rotated turbo in each direction and spun the shaft forward and backwards. Oil will be there as soon as you fire up the engine you just need some oil on bearings for initial startup.

[keithb7]

I just about ready to flash up with the new turbo. I have read that engine oil should be changed when installing a new turbo. I assume due to the tight tolerances  that are present and lubricated by the oil. I have about 1500 miles on a full synthetic oil and new filter when I serviced the truck last October.  5W40. Seems kinda wasteful to dump that pricey oil.  I get clean oil and its benefits. Just wondering if the general statement to change oil is pretty generic and they are assuming you have old dirty oil?

 

I chose 5W40 based on our cold Canadian winters and getting good cranking speed.  It was effective and I never plugged in all winter and it flashed up just using the air intake pre-heater. 

 

I’m thinking if I’m going to dump this oil, I’ll go with conventional oil this time. Then dump it again in the fall to put synthetic back in for the winter.  

 

 

[trreed]

I wouldn't worry about changing the oil.  I've installed a handful of different turbos on my pickup, and have only changed the oil once, and that was only because I was an idiot and started it with the feed line completely off.  Two gallons of oil went EVERYWHERE (in a span of 30 seconds) before I remembered.

 

1500 miles on synthetic should still be new yet.  And, the oil going into the feed line comes directly out of the filter.

Edited March 27, 2019 by trreed

[keithb7]

Swap is complete. Flashed up and test drove. Nice results! It pulls hills better and seems to have more grunt. I can feel it. I wish had a gauge installed to measure boost with the old turbo to compare to the new one.  I am proceding with a boost, pyro, and transmission temp gauge package now. This job was rewarding and well worth my time and investment. 

 

Just wondering: Had I taken my truck in to a shop for a boost test, followed by a new replacement stock Holset turbo, what would that likely have cost? Parts and labor of course. Around here I’d guess $3K USD out the door?

Edited March 27, 2019 by keithb7

[Dieselfuture]

12 hours ago, keithb7 said:

I wish had a gauge installed to measure boost with the old turbo to compare to the new one.

Yes gauge is a must, in the end it's not so much psi it's volume. I ran hx35 then switch to hx35 / 40 hybrid, quite a bit more power but still running same PSI range. Injectors and tuning would be your next best bet.

12 hours ago, keithb7 said:

Around here I’d guess $3K

Let's just say your butt would look like this